When you varnished your teak did you remove it all from the boat in order to seal the undersides, or just leave it in place and varnish away? I left mine in place,(85 Catalina 27) and it looked great for a couple of years, but even with throwing on a few coats each year it appears that water is spoiling the finish near the sides of the teak where it was not sealed. *cry I was wondering if sealing the undersides and all other portions that are not accessable (while still on the boat) would cure this problem. By the way the teak has about 9 coats of varnish on it already, I am using Captains Varnish. Thanks for your reply's and smooth sailing
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Ray Bowles
We went to a 2 part epoxy that worked better.
Bill, My experence has been that unless you can stop all entries of moisture and damp air you will get some areas where the varnish will pull away. When we bought our IP38 in Alabama in 2001 the previous owners had used a 2 part product called "Bristol Finish" inleu of varnish. They had applied it 3 years earlier when in the Med. I continued using it on the other teak areas of the boat and the results were simply stunning. It looks the same as varnish and almost has an eggshell outer look, but that's probably because I'm so damn picky. It is way easier to apply that varnish and resists pullaway much better. After 6 years it was still perfect without sealing the undersides of the painted areas. I think the cost, at about $90 a quart, frightens most sailors, but when you realize that you won't be doing this every year it becomes a bargain. Besides a quart will do about 3 boats. If you whack a chunk of the "Bristol" you simply touch that spot up next year without alot of additional prep. Try it, you'll be glad you did. You can find this product advertized in the back pages of all the sail mags. It is a direct sales product. If you want more info give me a call. Ray
Bill, My experence has been that unless you can stop all entries of moisture and damp air you will get some areas where the varnish will pull away. When we bought our IP38 in Alabama in 2001 the previous owners had used a 2 part product called "Bristol Finish" inleu of varnish. They had applied it 3 years earlier when in the Med. I continued using it on the other teak areas of the boat and the results were simply stunning. It looks the same as varnish and almost has an eggshell outer look, but that's probably because I'm so damn picky. It is way easier to apply that varnish and resists pullaway much better. After 6 years it was still perfect without sealing the undersides of the painted areas. I think the cost, at about $90 a quart, frightens most sailors, but when you realize that you won't be doing this every year it becomes a bargain. Besides a quart will do about 3 boats. If you whack a chunk of the "Bristol" you simply touch that spot up next year without alot of additional prep. Try it, you'll be glad you did. You can find this product advertized in the back pages of all the sail mags. It is a direct sales product. If you want more info give me a call. Ray
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Bill
Ray please tell me more
about the "Bristol Finish" primarially the application techniques, do I need to strip all of the old varnish off first? Please share your experience as $90.00 would be a bargain when I already pay $25.00 for a quart of Captains Varnish and it requires a lot of work to keep it up. Does the product store well between applications? Do you have any pics? What kind of color does it give the Teak? I sure don't like the cetol look. Thanks, Bill
about the "Bristol Finish" primarially the application techniques, do I need to strip all of the old varnish off first? Please share your experience as $90.00 would be a bargain when I already pay $25.00 for a quart of Captains Varnish and it requires a lot of work to keep it up. Does the product store well between applications? Do you have any pics? What kind of color does it give the Teak? I sure don't like the cetol look. Thanks, Bill
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Ray Bowles
Bill, this is how we used Bristol
You'll have to accept a two part answer as I couldn't find their add in my last issue of CW. When I'm finished sailing tomorrow I'll swing by the shop and get the name, address, etc. of the company that makes and sells Bristol and post it. I have used this product both in the tropics and up here in Washington State. It was much faster and easier to apply down south as the warm temps were better. There when applied it was in the 80+ degree range and up here it was in the high 50's and low 60's. This product requires 4 to 6 coats for best results but the working time in the 70's and 80's is about 3+ hours and we found we could apply coats about every 15 minutes. When we reached the end of the boat we simply downed part of a cold one and started over again. The trick was to have the previous coat just losing its "tacky" feel when we started the next. We were able to apply all the coats in one day. Just don't try to cover more area than you can reasonably manage at one time. I'm quite color blind so I can't give a good answer on that factor. It isn't like Cetol. My wife said it was lighter and didn't have the goldish red cast. We have found that on older wood we sanded it and then applied the product. You don't want to apply it over an older finish that is lifting or over recently oiled wood. I did not remove any wood that required extensive work. Those areas we sanded as best we could and then taped as tightly as possible with BLUE PAINTERS TAPE. Don't use masking tape as it will stick on for life. Once every spring I touch-up sand any damaged areas and re-apply spot touch-up coats. I have found this to be a very small job. Up here in the cooler temps I have had to settle for 2 coats a day as it sets up much slower. If you wait until summer it is a heck of a lot faster. It comes in 1 quart cans with about a pint of hardener. I have found that after opening the hardner that it well go bad within a year. Store the opened hardner jar upsidedown after use and it will crust up on the bottom of the container and allow you enough product to use for another year. The Bristol itself lasts forever and i simply reorder hardner as needed. The working when cool can be extended to the next day by futting the mixed paint in the refer while the applied paint sets up. Enough! More tomorrow. Ray
You'll have to accept a two part answer as I couldn't find their add in my last issue of CW. When I'm finished sailing tomorrow I'll swing by the shop and get the name, address, etc. of the company that makes and sells Bristol and post it. I have used this product both in the tropics and up here in Washington State. It was much faster and easier to apply down south as the warm temps were better. There when applied it was in the 80+ degree range and up here it was in the high 50's and low 60's. This product requires 4 to 6 coats for best results but the working time in the 70's and 80's is about 3+ hours and we found we could apply coats about every 15 minutes. When we reached the end of the boat we simply downed part of a cold one and started over again. The trick was to have the previous coat just losing its "tacky" feel when we started the next. We were able to apply all the coats in one day. Just don't try to cover more area than you can reasonably manage at one time. I'm quite color blind so I can't give a good answer on that factor. It isn't like Cetol. My wife said it was lighter and didn't have the goldish red cast. We have found that on older wood we sanded it and then applied the product. You don't want to apply it over an older finish that is lifting or over recently oiled wood. I did not remove any wood that required extensive work. Those areas we sanded as best we could and then taped as tightly as possible with BLUE PAINTERS TAPE. Don't use masking tape as it will stick on for life. Once every spring I touch-up sand any damaged areas and re-apply spot touch-up coats. I have found this to be a very small job. Up here in the cooler temps I have had to settle for 2 coats a day as it sets up much slower. If you wait until summer it is a heck of a lot faster. It comes in 1 quart cans with about a pint of hardener. I have found that after opening the hardner that it well go bad within a year. Store the opened hardner jar upsidedown after use and it will crust up on the bottom of the container and allow you enough product to use for another year. The Bristol itself lasts forever and i simply reorder hardner as needed. The working when cool can be extended to the next day by futting the mixed paint in the refer while the applied paint sets up. Enough! More tomorrow. Ray
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Ray Bowles
Location for Bristol sales
Bristol marine wood products are at: C Tech Marine Melbourne Fla. 321-752-7533
Bristol marine wood products are at: C Tech Marine Melbourne Fla. 321-752-7533
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Bill
Thanks Ray
I think I am going to give Bristol Finish a try. There web site has lots of good info as far a prep work etc. I hope to do what can be removed easily from the boat in the winter, and the rest in the spring. Bristol tech support suggests anything with bung plugs be done in place so thats what I am going to do. Thanks for the info Ray
I think I am going to give Bristol Finish a try. There web site has lots of good info as far a prep work etc. I hope to do what can be removed easily from the boat in the winter, and the rest in the spring. Bristol tech support suggests anything with bung plugs be done in place so thats what I am going to do. Thanks for the info Ray
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