Varnish - re-visited

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Mar 21, 2004
2,175
Hunter 356 Cobb Island, MD
Well I just placed the last coat of varnish on the wood this morning. Things are looking good. Finally got the bubbles under control - just thinned the varnish about 8 parts varnish to 2 parts thinner. Yes I have to place more coats on but it worked. Appears that the surface tension was not letting some of the bubbles pop up through. If this job wasn't so small I would have SPRAYED. Picture is about 3 hours after the last coat. These are the wood pieces off the stern rail seats. Jim S/V Java
 

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Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Looks great Jim!

What product did you use? How did you prep? Tim R.
 
Mar 28, 2005
182
Oday 272 Baltimore
I see you like chopsticks too!

Jim, Your work looks great. I use take-out chopsticks all the time too for epoxy work and other stirring and mixing jobs. Much cheaper than tongue depressers and always have some on hand!
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,953
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Yes, more info please Jim

My stern seats have been in the basement since haul-out and are on the todo list before launch, but I've been putting it off not quite knowing how I'm going to do them. Can you fill me in on a few more details or can I just ship them to you ;D
 
May 1, 2005
107
Beneteau Oceanis Boca Raton, FL
Nice Job!

I'm getting ready to go back to the shop and put the last coat ox epoxy on my new sole. Did the bottome and edges yesterday, and had a lot of dribbles on the teak side this morning, but scraped and sanded out and rolled the epoxy on. I have the same problem with the air bubbles in the finish with the epoxy. Hopefully, they will come out with sanding for the varnish. Think I am going to have it sprayed on. Hope it looks as good as yours.
 

CalebD

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Jun 27, 2006
1,479
Tartan 27' 1967 Nyack, NY
Kerry, to get bubbles out of the epoxy coating

You can use a propane blowtorch and sweep it gently over the surface once applied. Keep the flame at least 3" from the epoxy mixture as you only want the heat (not the flame) to help the bubbles expand and release themselves from the mixture. The epoxy will not catch fire unless you leave the torch in one area for too long and too close. I have used this technique when applying Liquid Glass (an epoxy product used on bar tops).
 
Mar 28, 2005
182
Oday 272 Baltimore
Your work may outgas if you apply epoxy as it is warming up.

A good rule to avoid bubbles is to apply epoxy (primarily the first coat) after the work has reached its warmest temperature. If you work in a cool shop first thing in the morning, and apply epoxy, as the wood warms up it will outgas and the not-yet-cured epoxy will trap the bubbles. Warm the shop up before applying a first coat, and this can be avoided. Also, avoid excessive aggressive stirring of the epoxy that will stir in air bubbles (same as varnish).
 
May 1, 2005
107
Beneteau Oceanis Boca Raton, FL
Bubbles

Hope it works after about 24 hours. Think a heat gun would do the same? I used it to loosen the supports I had under the pieces as they stuck to the run off from top. It worked, just akward as I have 25 pieces on four shelves on runners about 12 feet long. It's pretty warm down here, and I think the shop was in high 70's. After each 4 hr wait between coats, most of the bubbles from the roller came out.
 
Mar 21, 2004
2,175
Hunter 356 Cobb Island, MD
How it was done

Thanks everyone - Have to love it when I comes out great. This is the third or fourth time I tried to do something with this wood. Originally, I tried cetol and it held up to the second season. So I sanded that down and tried epifanes that didn't last either. After reading in the Latts & Atts how Bob used MAS epoxy with a UV varnish on top, after emailing asking how it held up - he said great. I said think I'll try that. So, sanded everything down AGAIN, started with MAS epoxy and medium hardener thinned with 10% alcohol. This made a nice penetrating wash to seal the wood. Then applied another MAS Flag epoxy which is thicker. Sanded this to remove any rough spots or drips. Let this sit for three days to insure it was cured. BTW top and bottom were coated in epoxy. Now this is were I got into problems with bubbles in the varnish which was Epifanes. BTW epifanes is what I had on hand. There are four coats on, which was lightly sanded between each coat. I found that by thinning the epifanes, I was able to control the air bubbles to almost none. Operative word is ALMOST. Still have them but ok. Where I do this work is the basement - constant temp of 65, dust almost none. Sanding done in the garage. Now I'll have to wait and see if this can hold up to the elements...... Jim S/V Java
 
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