Valve needed

Don S/V ILLusion · Oct 24, 2022

Clarity helps.
shall we assume you mean you want to connect a strainer directly to a thruhull? and why?
A seacock already has an integral ball valve to which a hose would connect a sea strainer.

dlochner · Oct 24, 2022

xavpil said:
Hi all.
what type of valve do I need to connect the strainer to the seasick?
i obviously want something super strong and easy to turn open/close
Thx

You're correct, you'll need a strong valve to prevent the seasick from, well doing what the seasick do, until it can be discharged to leeward. To my knowledge an FDA approved seasick valve has yet to be invented, in the meantime a bucket works. If the seasick eschew buckets make sure they are well secured before leaning to leeward, else they may be feeding the fishes more than anticipated. Reminding them of the cardinal rule, always puke to leeward, may help them with self control while looking for an appropriate location to evacuate their gastric contents.

dlochner · Oct 24, 2022

xavpil said:
Well what I have is a threaded piece of brass sticking out of the hull to which an old valve was connected, itself connected to the strainer, to the water pump.
not sure of the name but at least I now know that is a seacock is diffevent

The brass is probably and should be bronze. You are correct, a valve is needed. A bronze or Marelon ball valve would be appropriate. Groco makes good ball valves, Forespar makes Marelon valves.

dlochner · Oct 24, 2022

xavpil said:
Awesome, thx

My boat is 40 years old and the bronze pipe is old too.
how do I check That it is still strongly attached to the hull?
How di I clean it up / maintain it? ( I know I. Oils google the answer but I’d like your
opinion)

Rod Collins explains it much better than I ever could. See the link below.

Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks - Marine How To

Tip: If you would like a higher resolution or larger photo simply click on the picture and it will get bigger. A Poor Idea The picture on the left is what not to do if starting from scratch and installing new seacocks.

marinehowto.com

Leeward Rail · Oct 24, 2022

dlochner said:
you'll need a strong valve to prevent the seasick from, well doing what the seasick do, until it can be discharged to leeward.

Discharge it where??!!!

Polite people try keep their discharge away from others.

Parsons · Oct 25, 2022

For language purposes, a through-hull (the fitting in the hull) is connected to a seacock (the valve) and then to the hose to allow the seawater to flow in. Obviously, holes in boats are dangerous, so following good practices keeps your boat off the bottom. Some hints:

Always use good quality seacocks, not some hardware store gate valve. If you don't know the brand names, buying from a marine store such as Defender.com or West Marine will help. Yes they are more expensive, but you only get one chance to do this right.
Replacing either a seacock or through-hull means hauling out, so make your list of all dry projects. Since you will haul for winter anyhow, you have six months to get this right. If you intend to replace seacocks, consider the minimum setting temperature of the sealant and do not plan this for January in Milwaukee.
When attaching flexible hose, always double clamp anything below the waterline (for when one rusts through), and only use good quality (again not hardware store). Make sure the clamps are above the metal valve fitting, not just squeezing the hose further up. If your sink leaks at home, you can clean it up with a bucket - not so when your boat leaks.
For below the waterline through-hulls, use 3M 4000 or 4200 sealant, you do not need (or want) 5200 as it will never come loose. You may want to look at your backing plates to the throughhull (reinforcing piece attached to the hull). Older boats had these made of wood, and it's probably rotten. Remove and replace either with treated wood or fibreglass adhered to hull, then seal a throughull fitting to that. The backing plate is permanent and the throughhull is removable.