V32 Holding tank replacement/relocation
- Thread starter coxjam
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vision 32 head
I was going to replace mine with a ronco tank under the aft berth ... decided instead to go with a "Natures Head" ... works well for me ...
V32 Replacement Waste Tank
I have a Ronco B191 (30 gallon) tank on order to place at the foot of the aft berth. I'll close in the end of the berth with a marine plywood panel, still leaving more than 6 feet of length. Other than replacing the hoses with 102 hose, everything else stays in place.
Re: V32 Replacement Waste Tank
Snows - have you finished your install,a nd if so do you have pics or details? How is it working for you??
Re: V32 Replacement Waste Tank
I"m anxious to see your finished project. I have spoken with some else who placed a 20 gal tank under the aft berth just behind the head. once the tank was installed, the cover layed back over the opening then the cushions lay back over.
I"m anxious to see your finished project. I have spoken with some else who placed a 20 gal tank under the aft berth just behind the head. once the tank was installed, the cover layed back over the opening then the cushions lay back over.
vision 32 holding tank
I am struggling with the same issue now, and have been looking at a few options. do you happen to know what tank you friend used under the berth, and is he having any issues with the new arrangement?
coxjam,
I am struggling with the same issue now, and have been looking at a few options. do you happen to know what tank you friend used under the berth, and is he having any issues with the new arrangement?
I've performed a dry fit of the tank (just barely fit through the door to the aft berth) and am very pleased with its shape and dimensions. As I haven't been able to locate teak plywood in South Carolina yet, progress has slowed. I'll try to remember to take pictures and post them as soon as this project picks back up.
V32 Waste Tank Update
I spent a good bit of the weekend installing a new waste tank and hoses behind the head at the foot of the aft berth. The tank is a Ronco B191 (30 gallon) and fit the hull shape fairly well. My original plan was to support the tank first on a platform, shim between the tank and hull, then pinch the tank in place with a bulkhead panel. This method probably would have been easier than what I actually did. I thought it would be best to mount the tank to the bulkhead, then fix the bulkhead in place. Because there isn't a lot of room to work in that area, I wrestled with it and eventually had to cut about 18" of the length of the bulkhead panel to get it into place.
I used the 1-1/2" Trident 102 hose, and boy is that stuff hard to bend. It's outside diameter is larger than the hose I removed, so I had a difficult time getting everything to fit in the area of the pumpout fitting, vent thru-hull, and vent loop. Since I connected the vent loop and hoses outside the head, this assembly had to go in first and just barely fit. Then the pumpout hose went up BEHIND the vent loop, meaning that the vent loop can't be screwed against the wall. Finally, I replaced the vent thru-hull with a straight 3/4" thru-hull and 3/4" hose.
Unless someone speaks up, my plan for the old tank is to let it dry out for a week, then close the three holes with resin and glass fiber. I don't think the tank had developed a leak yet. If I still have odor after everything is complete, I'll bore a 4" hole in the side, glass the inside of the tank, then close it up with a cover.
I spent a good bit of the weekend installing a new waste tank and hoses behind the head at the foot of the aft berth. The tank is a Ronco B191 (30 gallon) and fit the hull shape fairly well. My original plan was to support the tank first on a platform, shim between the tank and hull, then pinch the tank in place with a bulkhead panel. This method probably would have been easier than what I actually did. I thought it would be best to mount the tank to the bulkhead, then fix the bulkhead in place. Because there isn't a lot of room to work in that area, I wrestled with it and eventually had to cut about 18" of the length of the bulkhead panel to get it into place.
I used the 1-1/2" Trident 102 hose, and boy is that stuff hard to bend. It's outside diameter is larger than the hose I removed, so I had a difficult time getting everything to fit in the area of the pumpout fitting, vent thru-hull, and vent loop. Since I connected the vent loop and hoses outside the head, this assembly had to go in first and just barely fit. Then the pumpout hose went up BEHIND the vent loop, meaning that the vent loop can't be screwed against the wall. Finally, I replaced the vent thru-hull with a straight 3/4" thru-hull and 3/4" hose.
Unless someone speaks up, my plan for the old tank is to let it dry out for a week, then close the three holes with resin and glass fiber. I don't think the tank had developed a leak yet. If I still have odor after everything is complete, I'll bore a 4" hole in the side, glass the inside of the tank, then close it up with a cover.
Someone (me!) is speaking up!
Remove the old tank. That'll let you clean up that area and use it for storage...which might require a little carpentry to create a hatch, but a small price to pay. If there's any residual odor, PureAyre PureAyre will get rid of it.
You said, "I used the 1-1/2" Trident 102 hose, and boy is that stuff hard to bend!" Hose should never be bent tighter than it wants to bend willingly...and especially should never be heated to to that. That's just asking for a future kink and/or damage to the hose because it stretches the outside radius of the bend to the point where the skin can tear. Instead, use inline radius fittings, which you can find at any good plumbing supply or hardware store...or pay several times more to get 'em from Dometic/SeaLand. Scroll to the bottom of their page here to see what to look for: SeaLand Hoses and Fittings
Y'all might want to spend some time reading the discussions in the Head Mistress forum about installing tanks, replacing hoses, and uses for PureAyre. And you might also find the link in my signature here useful.
Remove the old tank. That'll let you clean up that area and use it for storage...which might require a little carpentry to create a hatch, but a small price to pay. If there's any residual odor, PureAyre PureAyre will get rid of it.
You said, "I used the 1-1/2" Trident 102 hose, and boy is that stuff hard to bend!" Hose should never be bent tighter than it wants to bend willingly...and especially should never be heated to to that. That's just asking for a future kink and/or damage to the hose because it stretches the outside radius of the bend to the point where the skin can tear. Instead, use inline radius fittings, which you can find at any good plumbing supply or hardware store...or pay several times more to get 'em from Dometic/SeaLand. Scroll to the bottom of their page here to see what to look for: SeaLand Hoses and Fittings
Y'all might want to spend some time reading the discussions in the Head Mistress forum about installing tanks, replacing hoses, and uses for PureAyre. And you might also find the link in my signature here useful.
Vision 32 Holdinbg Tank removal
Snows,
I was originally going to remove my holding tank. I used a rotary tool and removed the fiberglass between the tank and the inside of the sink cabinet exposing the entire aft end of the tank. It wouldn't budge. I then removed the entire aft side of the tank itself. I couldn't get any of the 3 sides of the tank to separate from the enclosure... nothing would move. It is in there pretty solidly. I don't know if they have straps molded into the enclosure or what. I ended up giving what remained of the tank a thorough sanitizing and made a liner from fiberglass reinforced plastic paneling. I totally agree with Peggy on the PureAyre - great stuff. I never had any residual odor.
Snows,
I was originally going to remove my holding tank. I used a rotary tool and removed the fiberglass between the tank and the inside of the sink cabinet exposing the entire aft end of the tank. It wouldn't budge. I then removed the entire aft side of the tank itself. I couldn't get any of the 3 sides of the tank to separate from the enclosure... nothing would move. It is in there pretty solidly. I don't know if they have straps molded into the enclosure or what. I ended up giving what remained of the tank a thorough sanitizing and made a liner from fiberglass reinforced plastic paneling. I totally agree with Peggy on the PureAyre - great stuff. I never had any residual odor.
Re: Vision 32 Holdinbg Tank removal
I just spent a weeks vacation down at the coast doing this project. I ll post pictures on photobucket.com later this week. Some highlights include: I had Ronco make the tank as specified by Hunter and cut the shower seat out again, as Hunter recommended. You must cut from the front as well as from the aft side of tank from underneath the sink. It is not bolted or strapped in, rather fiberglassed in place. I used a vibrating saw from Harbor Freight to cut fiberglass, then a reciprocating saw and rotozip circular saw to cut the tank out in pieces. There is no way the tank is coming out in one piece. Consequently, there is NOWAY the new tank that Hunter specified is going in that hole so DO NOT make your replacement tank to Hunter Specs as I did!!!!!!!! I am now paying again to cut the tank down 3.5 inchs. I'll get back to you all next time with how this is going to fit. Shame on Hunter for not advising me correctly. I hope to run all new sanitation hose as "Snow" did above, hope that's not another nightmare as this tank ordeal has been.
I just spent a weeks vacation down at the coast doing this project. I ll post pictures on photobucket.com later this week. Some highlights include: I had Ronco make the tank as specified by Hunter and cut the shower seat out again, as Hunter recommended. You must cut from the front as well as from the aft side of tank from underneath the sink. It is not bolted or strapped in, rather fiberglassed in place. I used a vibrating saw from Harbor Freight to cut fiberglass, then a reciprocating saw and rotozip circular saw to cut the tank out in pieces. There is no way the tank is coming out in one piece. Consequently, there is NOWAY the new tank that Hunter specified is going in that hole so DO NOT make your replacement tank to Hunter Specs as I did!!!!!!!! I am now paying again to cut the tank down 3.5 inchs. I'll get back to you all next time with how this is going to fit. Shame on Hunter for not advising me correctly. I hope to run all new sanitation hose as "Snow" did above, hope that's not another nightmare as this tank ordeal has been.
I forgot the guys name but have his email address at home if you want to email him. I queried him significantly and can discuss on phone if you want. He no longer owns his boat. Spencer is his member name on the forums, call me if you want, 210 821-7118.
James
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