Using Compressed Air to Clear FW lines

[asmits]

Does anyone use compressed air to clear water out of their boat's freshwater lines for winterization? I would be interested in anyone sharing their "tried and true" methods of doing so.

Here in CT, I've been using pink antifreeze, buy trying to clear it all out in the spring takes forever, and I still get the odor lingering all active season.

If there are any owners of late model (2005 and newer) Hunters, I would love to hear your thoughts.

Allan

 

[seadaddler]

Yes

Yes I always did use air compressor to clear water from my sailboat and RV
for years instead of pink antifreez.
I made a hook up at different points in the boat making sure all pumps were cleared of any water.
I did run the system until all water was emptied and than blow out the water heater and than run air through all sinks.
Nick

 

[Alan]

me too...

I've never used the pink stuff. The same with my underground sprinkler system at home.

If there's no water in the line, it can't freeze.

 

[asmits]

Can you describe where you injected the air, what psi, did you make/buy a special fitting to attach to the FW tubing, what was your source of air?

Thanks,
Allan

 

[Jeff]

We've used the compressed air method for years on our boat. I have access under the V-berth to the fresh water tank. Ours has a shut off valve and a threaded connection. After emptying the main and hot water tank I disconnect the main supply line leading to the faucets and blow compressed air at about 25-30psi through the line. The air nozzle I use has a rubber tip on it. I open each faucet and then hold the rubber tip to the supply line until all the water is removed. Works great!!

 

[Alan]

Drain the water tank, unscrew the line from both sides of the pressure pump. Blow out the water from inside the pump. Make sure the pump is dry. Any water left inside it will crack the housing. Drain the hot water heater. Disconnect the lines to and from the heater.
Using a portable compressed air tank with a rubber tipped air chuck you can fit it into any of the faucets and open them one at a time and blowing the water back until only air escapes from the other end. Do this to all faucets hot and cold (don't forget the cockpit shower).
It's not that complicated and the whole process only takes a few minutes. It took me longer to type this than blowing out the lines.

 

[asmits]

Thank you, one and all. I've always felt there had to be a better way than pink! You guys rock.

Final question...do you still use pink for the head, or can it be drained too?

Thanks again,
Allan

 

[Maine Sail]

Thank you, one and all. I've always felt there had to be a better way than pink! You guys rock.

Final question...do you still use pink for the head, or can it be drained too?

Thanks again,
Allan

Air is good if it works on your boat and you'll only know by trying it.

On many of the newer boats with large complicated plumbing systems you can still get some areas that don't blow out or the condensation left on the pipe walls drips back to a low spot. Few yards up here in Maine are willing blow out lines due to freeze ups. The yard I store at makes you sign a waiver if you want to blow out.

The trick with pink is to not put it in the tank and to bypass the hot water heater. You then suck the pink through only the lines by sucking it directly into the pump. Just drain the tanks and they will remain pink free.

I don't like pink either but have had an air blown freeze up of my own which resulted in me having to re-build the plumbing dist manifold. I blew it out for a long time but air takes the path of least resistance and I had a Y that still had water in it. I surmise this is what eventually drained back to my manifold over the winter.

Give air a try if it works it's a great option. If it doesn't you can always go back to pink..