USB Chargers wiring

[Bob S]

Eathtek Replacement Universal Waterproof 4 Port USB Charger Socket Outlet 5V Output Total 6.2A Panel Mount


My new to me boat has one 12V charger, original equipment, in it. I bought this on Amazon and am about to mount it to my DP. Would it be appropriate to run one set of wires and pigtail across to the second or should I run two separate sets of wires? I have 2A inline fuses if I pigtail would I only need one for the first outlet or should I put one on each?

 

[LeslieTroyer]

I would run one set and short jumpers to the second outlet. One fuse is fine if you wire this way - and total amps @ 5V is 6.2 so it is 6.2*5/12*.9 (the .9 is for efficiency of the converter) or 2.3 amps - I would use a bigger fuse - remember your protecting the wire (I assume you'll use 14ga) not the device.
Les

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Perhaps I'll be shot down, but with so little current, I would pigtail. I am also about to install the same component, except mine has the 2 USB ports on one side and a 12V socket on the other. Are you coming off the battery or a breaker on your panel? I'm coming off the 15A breaker with 14 AWG wire (within a couple of feet). If coming from a breaker or panel fuse, why would you add a separate fuse?

 

[Chief RA]

Scott: If your 14 wire draws excess amps it will burn into before a 15a fuseblows. Fuse for wire size safety. Chief

 

[bawlmer]

Use a pigtail. You'll be fine. #14 wire is more than adequate.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Scott: If your 14 wire draws excess amps it will burn into before a 15a fuseblows. Fuse for wire size safety. Chief

15A breaker provides protection for 14 AWG wire. 2.1 amp USB port isn't going to draw anything significant. I'm only questioning the need to provide a fuse (much less a 2 amp fuse). The fuse wouldn't be for wire protection, so what would it need to be there for? To protect a devise connected to the USB port? I don't think I would bother.
I do question if the 12v port could service a devise that could overload the wire, perhaps a high wattage spot light? In that case, wouldn't a 2 amp fuse constantly break? In my case, the 15A breaker would trip before the 14 awg wire is jeopardized.
The outlet that I bought actually has a volt meter as well as the 12v port and USB port. If wiring the leads directly to the battery to read voltage, I would use an in-line fuse with low amperage. I'm not sure about that connection yet. I'm wondering why it can't read off the panel, albeit with less accuracy. Maybe that's what I want ... the Linkpro is reading the battery's voltage afterall.

 

[Chief RA]

Sorry Scott, I was thinking 22 wire rating instead of 14. 22 is usually the size used on a USB. Should be fine. Chief

 

[jviss]

I wouldn't install that. I'd put in old-fashioned, 12V cigarette-lighter sockets so that you can plug in the latest USB charging technology. For example, does that device support Quick Charge 3.0? No, it does not. If it was a cig lighter socket, you could plug in the latest charging technology, which is MUCH, MUCH, FASTER than what that device does. And, in the future, when technology improves - just plug it in!

 

[Ron20324]

No one has mentioned the rating of the USB contacts themselves. They are probably what the amp ratings are. There is a reason all 4 ports are not rated 2.1.

 

[Captmayhem]

No one has mentioned the rating of the USB contacts themselves. They are probably what the amp ratings are. There is a reason all 4 ports are not rated 2.1.

yes , because of USB 1/2 protocol, not USB skt rating.
It's only fairly recent that USB has needed to provide a higher current, the contacts are good, it's just that the old protocol limited current output.
My solar charge controller has usb outputs that I swear you could weld with, I don't think there's any current limit circuit in it,lol

 

[Ward H]

@Scott T-Bird The device the fuse is protecting is the USB ports themselves. There has to be some electronics inside to regulate the voltage and a high current draw will overheat the electronics.
I believe someone, Main Sail? posted about this a while back and showed some USB ports that plugged into cigarette lighter sockets that had melted down. In cars a USB port plugged into a cig lighter will get a lot of amps if the components short out. Lesson there is not to buy the cheapest USB port you can find and don't overload it.
I installed separate USB and DC outlets, one each. I pig tailed them together and used 14g wire as that is what I had for my wiring project. I protected the sockets with a 5A breaker instead of using a larger breaker on the panel and installing a fuse at the sockets.

 

[Full Circle 473]

I just installed a very similar piece outside by the helm. Super easy to do. Mine came with leads and I just tied it into the existing 12v system. Been using it exclusively to charge everything for the past week. This was a real nice upgrade.

 

[jviss]

The "normal," panel mount USB outlets do not support QuickCharge 3.0, or the other fast charging protocols. The difference in charging your phone can be HOURS! And, if someone introduces 4.0 or something in the future, you'll be farther behind. That's why a 12V cigarette lighter outlet is a superior interface; consider it a charging abstraction layer, into which you insert the latest technology charging "app."

I have this:

Anker Quick Charge 3.0 39W Dual USB Car Charger. $26 via Amazon Prime. I plug this into it, and put it on the nav desk:

Samsung Fast Charge Qi Wireless Charging Pad for Qi Enabled Devices.

I just drop my phone on it and get fast charging.

 

[Maine Sail]

The Anker stuff has gotten a lot better over the last few years. I used to be able to burn an Anker USB insert out in a few days like many of the other Chinese imports including the OP's..

I used to only use the Scosche USBC242M inserts, very, very reliable, but Anker now makes a dual USB port, 2.4A per port unit called the PowerDrive 2 for $9.99 with prime. I just got done testing one. It ran for about 22 days, 24/7 at full bore, and it is still going. For $9.99 that's a pretty good deal and you can still use your 12V outlet for other things when you need it by simply pulling the USB insert out.....

 

[Bill Roosa]

Also the 12 volt cig lighter female socket will allow you to connect other things in a pinch. The only issue I see is the number of devices that need recharged/used at the same time. Course you could do both, wire a 12 volt cig socket and your USB outlet to the same CB for max flexibility.

 

[SFS]

but Anker now makes a dual USB port, 2.4A per port unit called the PowerDrive 2 for $9.99 with prime...

@Maine Sail - I found that on Amazon, but also noticed there is a "newer version" for $13.99. Do you know what the difference is? Specs seem the same.

 

[dlochner]

@Maine Sail - I found that on Amazon, but also noticed there is a "newer version" for $13.99. Do you know what the difference is? Specs seem the same.

I think the more expensive models include a short cable, there is another version for 15.99 that has an USB/Lightning cable.

 

[Bob S]

Thanks everyone! The boat has two 12v receptacles one at the DP and one at the helm. I like the convenience of this device as an add on. I'm not replacing the 12v receptacles. Two cell phones an IPad and a gps puck all can be charged with this.
I love this site appreciate everyone's imput.