Upgrade to ST4000 Plus MKII

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

John McGrath

Has anyone replaced their old ST4000 Autohelm with the new ST4000 Plus MKII? I had hoped that it would just fit in the holes already cut in the pedestal for the control and drive units. Unfortunately neither will fit. The control unit requires a larger hole (a pain but not a big problem) and (worse) the new drive unit is actually larger in diameter and therefore requires the hole in a different location. :-( Has anyone done this yet? Is there a neat and effective way to cover the old hole that doesn't include fiberglass work? Am I missing some easy solution? Help! :) Thanks, John
 
P

Pete

st 4000 upgrade

John, a suggestin for filling the hole from the old drive unit might be to put a cover over it like on a kitchen sink where the spray attatchment is not used. They are chrome plated (maybe availabe in stainless?)Not sure if you can get the correct size to cover the hole. Available at Home Depot or plumbing supply house. Another idea might be to put a small inspection port where the hole is, available in several size at any marine store.
 
D

David Stone

I'm assuming

You have a fiberglass pedestal. How about some epoxy & a thin sheet of plastic? lexan? If they are just screw holes, put stainless steel screws in them with a little sealant to prevent water entrapment at the screw head. Good luck.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
DC Receptacle

If you were talking about the hole, approx 1-inch in diameter, that was the connection from the control head, perhaps a DC receptacle would fit nicely. One could even connect the receptacle to 12V ;)
 
B

Bruce Leidal

Glass work is not so hard

John, Sounds like you have a nice little project. I would suggest not taking a short cut in the process. If you do, it will only cause you to 'fix' it later, which usually is more costly. I have done a lot of glass work. Here is how I would suggest you go about it to minimize the work and maximize the results. First, fill the old hole, then install the new autopilot to the original instructions. Filling the hole is not hard. The steps are: 1) use a round course file to bevel the old hole from the outside. 2)Glue a piece of corrugated cardboard behind the hole. 3)Using latex gloves, cut a piece of fiberglass about an inch larger than the cardboard. 4) Use a small paint brush to apply resin on the cardboard and surrounding area behind the hole. 5) Spread the fiberglass matt on the resin. 6) Paint a heavy coat of resin over the fiberglass. This completes the backside work. 7) Cut 4 or 5 round circles of fiberglass the same size as the hole. 8) Cut one circle of glass slightly larger, the size of the bevel in the gelcoat. 9) Apply resin to the inside of the hole (on the cardboard). 10) Place a small fiberglass cutout on the resin and paint with a layer of resin. 11) Repeat steps 9 & 10 for additional layers, placing the larger cutout on last. The resin for the last layer should cover the beveled area. 12) Ensure the resin and fiberglass is lower than the surrounding gelcoat. 13) After the resin sets (overnight) mix gelcoat with white coloring and fill in the hole (popcicle sticks work best). Cover the gelcoat with a piece of transparency film (this is the material used to create presentations that are shown on overhead projectors. You can usually get an old one from your office). Be sure all bubbles are removed and tape in place. The surface will dry to the shape of the transparency film. This will reduce the amount of sanding that needs to be done and hold the gelcoat on the vertical surface. 14) Use a small block of wood with 220 grit sand paper to finish. The fiberglassing should take about an hour. The gelcoat should take about 20 minutes and if you were very careful in placing the transparency film, the sanding should take about 5 to 10 minutes. Hope this helps. Bruce.
 
J

John McGrath

MKII upgrade

It is indeed the hole for attaching the control to the drive unit. I think I'll forgo the fiberglass work. While it sounds simple, I tend to be a klutz with things that take manual finesse. I think I'd end up with a patch that looked like a lousy bondo job. I like the idea of a 12V receptacle, although clearance from the wheel might cause a problem even if it will fit. I also already have one receptacle in the pedestal. The simple solution offered by Pete might be the one I go for. I really hate the idea of cutting a new hole, but I guess if I gotta, I gotta. :) Thanks, John
 
R

Rodger Beard

Answering a question with a question...

I have an ST 4000 and would appreciate it if you would advise the benefits of the upgrade. That is, what triggered your decision to replace the old unit? I confess that I'm been very happy with my unit... though perhaps ignorance is indeed bliss. <s> Rodger Beard s/v Attitude Adjustment
 
Status
Not open for further replies.