Do any owners have experience using the "Topclimber" from ATN for going up the mast? I'm considering a purchase to use on my 28 ft sailboat,and would be interested in knowing how satisfied actual users of the Topclimber have been. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you kindly, Al Goodman s/v Pleiades
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Roger Noble
I love mine
I got mine last year and think it's great. It uses two "ascenders," technical climbing devices used to traverse up and down a fixed line. The ones that come with it aren't the top of the line, and require you to feed the line through rather than allow you to disassemble the ascender and place it around a fixed line. That means you have to attach a line to your halyard that doesn't have a shackle on the end, hoist it aloft, feed it through the ascenders and then make it fast to a fitting on deck or at the base of the mast. Still, it works well once you have it rigged, and doesn't tire you out at all going up the mast. It also lets you get closer to the masthead, letting you get your head above it when you need to work there. Bottom line is, I'd replace mine in a heartbeat if I lost it. Hope this helps, Roger Noble C-30 #3725 "Amazing Grace" Lake Travis, Austin, Texas rogern@austin.rr.com
I got mine last year and think it's great. It uses two "ascenders," technical climbing devices used to traverse up and down a fixed line. The ones that come with it aren't the top of the line, and require you to feed the line through rather than allow you to disassemble the ascender and place it around a fixed line. That means you have to attach a line to your halyard that doesn't have a shackle on the end, hoist it aloft, feed it through the ascenders and then make it fast to a fitting on deck or at the base of the mast. Still, it works well once you have it rigged, and doesn't tire you out at all going up the mast. It also lets you get closer to the masthead, letting you get your head above it when you need to work there. Bottom line is, I'd replace mine in a heartbeat if I lost it. Hope this helps, Roger Noble C-30 #3725 "Amazing Grace" Lake Travis, Austin, Texas rogern@austin.rr.com
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Don Evans
Practical Sailor Gave It 2 Thumbs Up
A couple of issues ago they rated it very highly. It would be the way I'd go if I had to go to the top. ATN is a great company that makes excellent marine products that are very well engineered and applicable IMHO. Don
A couple of issues ago they rated it very highly. It would be the way I'd go if I had to go to the top. ATN is a great company that makes excellent marine products that are very well engineered and applicable IMHO. Don
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Rick
Made my own
The beauty of the system is that it allows you to climb your mast without depending on others. I put together my own system and had been using it awhile before I ever heard of ATN's system. Most of the parts are available at any mountian/rock climbing outfitter. I got mine at REI (they are also on the web). I used 2 Gibbs ascenders ($40ea) that can be opened so that you dont need to feed the halyard thru - just clamp on. For the bosun's chair I bought the mountain climbing harness ($40). I also bought 2" nylon webbing and sewed together the foot loops and harness attachement. Also get a collection of caribeaners and at least one very high quality locking 'beaner to attach your harness to. Using it takes a little practice before you get comfortable going up and down. Going up is easier than coming down. I used to use a rappelling "8" for coming down real quick & easy. It required a second halyard that wasn't secured on deck (loose hanging). The main problem with that was that the 8 would twist the line beneath you as decended and the twisting line would want to tangle and wrap on a shroud. Once while disconnecting after returning to deck I accidently dropped the 8 over the side. Now I decend manually (and more slowly) using the ascenders in reverse order (just like ATN). If I ever find a good decender that doesn't twist the line then I might go back to repelling back down (much more fun). I do not have any mountain or rock climbing experience but I did pick up a book on the subjuct. It explains all the gear, how its used and safety precautions.
The beauty of the system is that it allows you to climb your mast without depending on others. I put together my own system and had been using it awhile before I ever heard of ATN's system. Most of the parts are available at any mountian/rock climbing outfitter. I got mine at REI (they are also on the web). I used 2 Gibbs ascenders ($40ea) that can be opened so that you dont need to feed the halyard thru - just clamp on. For the bosun's chair I bought the mountain climbing harness ($40). I also bought 2" nylon webbing and sewed together the foot loops and harness attachement. Also get a collection of caribeaners and at least one very high quality locking 'beaner to attach your harness to. Using it takes a little practice before you get comfortable going up and down. Going up is easier than coming down. I used to use a rappelling "8" for coming down real quick & easy. It required a second halyard that wasn't secured on deck (loose hanging). The main problem with that was that the 8 would twist the line beneath you as decended and the twisting line would want to tangle and wrap on a shroud. Once while disconnecting after returning to deck I accidently dropped the 8 over the side. Now I decend manually (and more slowly) using the ascenders in reverse order (just like ATN). If I ever find a good decender that doesn't twist the line then I might go back to repelling back down (much more fun). I do not have any mountain or rock climbing experience but I did pick up a book on the subjuct. It explains all the gear, how its used and safety precautions.
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TOM MANALILI
Six to one block and tackle
In a flee mart, a few years back, I picked up a harken 3 sheave block with a ratchet and clam cleat, and a harken 3 sheave block with a becket, both to handle 1/2" dia. dock braid, (gold and white) six times the length of my mast + 10', and made me a mast climber, the trick is to extend the line through all the sheaves untill the blocks are farthest from each other, then slip the bottom block in a canvas bucket and drop the lien in neatly, with the top block on top, when deployed connect the top block to your best halyard, raise the block & halyard to the top of the mast, secure the halyard, and by this time the bottom block with the clam cleat you hook to your chair, and up you go, under your own power, 200 lbs is lifting 33 lbs.
In a flee mart, a few years back, I picked up a harken 3 sheave block with a ratchet and clam cleat, and a harken 3 sheave block with a becket, both to handle 1/2" dia. dock braid, (gold and white) six times the length of my mast + 10', and made me a mast climber, the trick is to extend the line through all the sheaves untill the blocks are farthest from each other, then slip the bottom block in a canvas bucket and drop the lien in neatly, with the top block on top, when deployed connect the top block to your best halyard, raise the block & halyard to the top of the mast, secure the halyard, and by this time the bottom block with the clam cleat you hook to your chair, and up you go, under your own power, 200 lbs is lifting 33 lbs.
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Richard Laribee
Tom -- help!
Tom... I can't quite picture your rig. Would you be willing to post a diagram of how you rigged your mast climber? Thanks!
Tom... I can't quite picture your rig. Would you be willing to post a diagram of how you rigged your mast climber? Thanks!
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Melody Miller
Richard - My Boat is just behind Yours!
Hi Richard: I was at Cadle Creek Marina yesterday looking for a ladder and almost grabbed yours. I'm behind you in Spice of Life. - What type of boat do you have? I don't recognize it as a Catalina. Thanks Melody
Hi Richard: I was at Cadle Creek Marina yesterday looking for a ladder and almost grabbed yours. I'm behind you in Spice of Life. - What type of boat do you have? I don't recognize it as a Catalina. Thanks Melody
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mark v.
lesson's from the dock
i agree w/tom , block and tackle is nice to have but you need to have additional "d " rings down low inside the b'chair so that when your at the top you can still easily reach what you went there to work on! the halyard shackle clip'd to the upper block combined w/the line between the lower block when fully run up add to that the shackle or clevis ring and finally the "d" ring on the chair--it all adds up to a frustraiting distance especially when trying to drill and mount hdwe. on the mast crane.
i agree w/tom , block and tackle is nice to have but you need to have additional "d " rings down low inside the b'chair so that when your at the top you can still easily reach what you went there to work on! the halyard shackle clip'd to the upper block combined w/the line between the lower block when fully run up add to that the shackle or clevis ring and finally the "d" ring on the chair--it all adds up to a frustraiting distance especially when trying to drill and mount hdwe. on the mast crane.
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TOM MANALILI
something I forgot to write
four feet below the speaders, and four feet below the mast head, I have 2 pairs of ABS folding steps, parallel ro each other, because it's some times easier to stand and work in these two areas. regarding my 6 to 1 block, and tackle, I'll have to pull out my harken catalog to indicate the blocks I used, what you want is 2- 3 sheave, the lower one has a becket and clam cleat, the sheaves s/take 1/2" dia. line, thickerer is easier, to grab.
four feet below the speaders, and four feet below the mast head, I have 2 pairs of ABS folding steps, parallel ro each other, because it's some times easier to stand and work in these two areas. regarding my 6 to 1 block, and tackle, I'll have to pull out my harken catalog to indicate the blocks I used, what you want is 2- 3 sheave, the lower one has a becket and clam cleat, the sheaves s/take 1/2" dia. line, thickerer is easier, to grab.
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