I have an '84 ODay 28 with a Universal M-15 diesel. Whenever I go to start it, the starter at first does nothing, after a few tries it clicks, then it will finally "catch" and turn over. It's taken me up to 5 minutes to get it to crank. I was at the Philly Strictly Sail show and presented my problem to the salesman at the Universal display. He told me that the problem is most likely a loss of voltage at the starter and suggested that I install a "slave solenoid" to raise the voltage at the starter. This makes sense to me (which leads me to believe that there's something wrong with it). Has anyone had this problem and fixed it this way? If so, I have a question about installing the solenoid. The ones that I've seen have two large terminals and two small ones. I know the large ones are one from the battery and one to the starter. One of the small terminals would be for the wire from the starter switch. What is the second small terminal for? (the chassis of the unit is grounded)
UNIVERSAL STARTER PROBLEM
- Thread starter jerry10848
- Start date
- Status
Shortcut
Until you get it fixed, buy a small jumper cable for just such an event. Attach the small red and black aligator clips to the solenoid and push the button with the thing, and you'll bypass the traditional starter. This is great insurance... and peace of mind.
Until you get it fixed, buy a small jumper cable for just such an event. Attach the small red and black aligator clips to the solenoid and push the button with the thing, and you'll bypass the traditional starter. This is great insurance... and peace of mind.
Common problem.
We talk about this a lot over on the Hunter side where Yanmars are common. Several of us have fixed it the way it was recommended to you. The basic problem is that the solenoid on the starter requires a lot of amps. The wiring from the battery thru the key switch and, on my boat, a pushbutton is not up to the task. The picture is a poor sketch that I made when completing this project. I have never had a start problem since installing the "relay"(Related Link). And I still carry the "jumper" that Bill suggests. Used it many times.
We talk about this a lot over on the Hunter side where Yanmars are common. Several of us have fixed it the way it was recommended to you. The basic problem is that the solenoid on the starter requires a lot of amps. The wiring from the battery thru the key switch and, on my boat, a pushbutton is not up to the task. The picture is a poor sketch that I made when completing this project. I have never had a start problem since installing the "relay"(Related Link). And I still carry the "jumper" that Bill suggests. Used it many times.
Solenoid Input
The related link is for a solenoid for the glow plugs, but is just as applicable here where wiring to the cockpit panel is inadequate for the voltage. It also explains the connections on the solenoid. I also recommend that you check all of your connections. There may also be an inline fuse between your starter and the key/pushbutton. Check the integrity of the fuse and its holder. You can purchase a solenoid at an automotive store for significantly less than the $40 at West Marine. Stu
The related link is for a solenoid for the glow plugs, but is just as applicable here where wiring to the cockpit panel is inadequate for the voltage. It also explains the connections on the solenoid. I also recommend that you check all of your connections. There may also be an inline fuse between your starter and the key/pushbutton. Check the integrity of the fuse and its holder. You can purchase a solenoid at an automotive store for significantly less than the $40 at West Marine. Stu
Follow this link,
This is a link to the Westerbeke service buliten regarding this issue. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
This is a link to the Westerbeke service buliten regarding this issue. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
Jerry you might also want to check your ground
connection(s) + does your engine have the old "trailer plug" wiring connection? if so you should upgrade it - there is lots of info on that in the archives.
connection(s) + does your engine have the old "trailer plug" wiring connection? if so you should upgrade it - there is lots of info on that in the archives.
I had similar problems on my 89 M12
The wires behind the engine panel were pretty well corroded, both batteries had to be fully charged to start ... did a new key switch, ran a separate wire for just the glow plugs and can now start with one battery so-so charged. And weird enough there was a fuse burried behind the engine panel ... that required you to unscrew the panel to get to it ... talk about dumb. Bite the bullet and redo a decent line from the battery switch to the starter panel and then two new lines from the switch to the glow plugs and selenoid. I think I did everything in #10 tinned. I don't keep pushing the glow plugs while i start ... 20 seconds of glow plug in cold weather. Vic
The wires behind the engine panel were pretty well corroded, both batteries had to be fully charged to start ... did a new key switch, ran a separate wire for just the glow plugs and can now start with one battery so-so charged. And weird enough there was a fuse burried behind the engine panel ... that required you to unscrew the panel to get to it ... talk about dumb. Bite the bullet and redo a decent line from the battery switch to the starter panel and then two new lines from the switch to the glow plugs and selenoid. I think I did everything in #10 tinned. I don't keep pushing the glow plugs while i start ... 20 seconds of glow plug in cold weather. Vic
THANKS TO ALL
Thanks everyone for your response, especially to Ed S for the diagram. I bought a relay on Ebay for $8.99 last night (I'm on fresh water, so I don't need anything special).
Thanks everyone for your response, especially to Ed S for the diagram. I bought a relay on Ebay for $8.99 last night (I'm on fresh water, so I don't need anything special).
- Status