Electrical circuits are not one of my strong points and I am having trouble figuring out how Tranquility (2003 H356) is wired so here are some questions. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. First: The DC schematic shows, I think, that the bilge pump is connected only to battery #1 without regard to battery selector switch position. Am I reading it correctly. Second: How does the battery selector switch enter into battery charging, e.g., if the switch is on #1 is #1 the only battery getting charged. On my last boat (O'Day 322) both batteries were charged without regard to the selector switch position. Third: Where is the 30 amp galvanic isolator located? Fourth: The schematic shows a 300 amp fuse near the batteries. Is that the small box on the bulkhead just forward of the battery box? Where does one buy that fuse? Fifth: What battery selector switch position do you use when (1) at dockside with AC power to the battery charger (2) at dockside with no AC power for charger and (3) when motoring. Thanks.
- Status
I'm a Little Confused As Well
Welcome to the confusion corner, however, I believe I can help answer some of your questions. However, it is possible that there can be differences between boats. I own a 356 2002 Hunter 1st, I do not think the battery selector switch has anything to do with the charging circuit 2nd, I found my Galvanic Isolator by feel. It id located (I believe) to the left of the circuit breaker panel between the inner wall and the hull. You have to open the panel, and with a flash light look aft towards the head. On my boat, that is where the isolator is located. 3rd, Although the battery switches location is irrelevant to charging, I always leave it on both. When I'm sailing or motoring I run on one battery only choosing 1 0r 2 based on odd and even calendar days. As for your other two questions, I was not aware the bilge pump was connected to only one battery, but it makes sense, and I am not certain, but I believe the box with the fuse is as you described just forward of the battery box.
Welcome to the confusion corner, however, I believe I can help answer some of your questions. However, it is possible that there can be differences between boats. I own a 356 2002 Hunter 1st, I do not think the battery selector switch has anything to do with the charging circuit 2nd, I found my Galvanic Isolator by feel. It id located (I believe) to the left of the circuit breaker panel between the inner wall and the hull. You have to open the panel, and with a flash light look aft towards the head. On my boat, that is where the isolator is located. 3rd, Although the battery switches location is irrelevant to charging, I always leave it on both. When I'm sailing or motoring I run on one battery only choosing 1 0r 2 based on odd and even calendar days. As for your other two questions, I was not aware the bilge pump was connected to only one battery, but it makes sense, and I am not certain, but I believe the box with the fuse is as you described just forward of the battery box.
Answers...
Steve, #1, the wiring from the bilge pump to the battery is for the automatic operation of the pump actuated by a float switch. The switch on your panel performs the manual function. #2, follow the large red wire from your alternator to what it's connected to. I believe it will be the battery selector switch, which is used to direct the charging current to the battery number selected. #3 & 4, don't know. #5, it depends on the function you assign to each battery. On my boat, #1 is starting and #2 is the house battery. When sailing I switch from #1 to #2 after shutting down the engine and back to #1 before starting it again. With the engine running, I switch it to #2 to recharge it. In the slip, I use #2 for DC power and switch on the charger (a Guest 3 stage dual battery Pro-Charger) overnight. To prevent a "fatal error" to the alternator diodes I have a Zap-Stop installed and am the only one "authorized" to change the selector switch. S/V Intrepid H34 #113
Steve, #1, the wiring from the bilge pump to the battery is for the automatic operation of the pump actuated by a float switch. The switch on your panel performs the manual function. #2, follow the large red wire from your alternator to what it's connected to. I believe it will be the battery selector switch, which is used to direct the charging current to the battery number selected. #3 & 4, don't know. #5, it depends on the function you assign to each battery. On my boat, #1 is starting and #2 is the house battery. When sailing I switch from #1 to #2 after shutting down the engine and back to #1 before starting it again. With the engine running, I switch it to #2 to recharge it. In the slip, I use #2 for DC power and switch on the charger (a Guest 3 stage dual battery Pro-Charger) overnight. To prevent a "fatal error" to the alternator diodes I have a Zap-Stop installed and am the only one "authorized" to change the selector switch. S/V Intrepid H34 #113
356 wiring
Steve, John's answers are basically correct-your ac charger has 2 independent circuits, both banks are charged regardless of the switch position;under engine power, the alternator output is connected to the selected bank and that's the only one that's charged. the isolator and fuse positions are as described-the isolator is a black box, about 4" cube mounted high up in the corner of the nav station, behing the angle where the two panels meet. With the stock system, I'd start the engine with the start battery, switch to both for charging, then to house at anchor, etc. I've added a battery combiner so the independent banks are always charged regardless of switch position, and i leave the boat on the house batteries-the "start" bank is for emrgencies only
Steve, John's answers are basically correct-your ac charger has 2 independent circuits, both banks are charged regardless of the switch position;under engine power, the alternator output is connected to the selected bank and that's the only one that's charged. the isolator and fuse positions are as described-the isolator is a black box, about 4" cube mounted high up in the corner of the nav station, behing the angle where the two panels meet. With the stock system, I'd start the engine with the start battery, switch to both for charging, then to house at anchor, etc. I've added a battery combiner so the independent banks are always charged regardless of switch position, and i leave the boat on the house batteries-the "start" bank is for emrgencies only
Switch on BOTH should be only for emergencies.
On a two bank system when both banks are combined the failure of one battery can bring all the power down on a boat. I have a friend who insisted on leaving his Switch on Both until one day he woke up at anchor with both his batteries dead. Unknown to him his battery charger had quit working and although he was running the generator the 12V refigerator brought the batteries down. The rule is that batteries should never be combined via the switch except for a short time as a boost when needed to start the engine. If you want the alternator to charge both batteries when underway add an electronic battery combiner which will allow charging input to both but maintain separate output. That way if one battery fails or is drawn down the other will sit in reserve.
On a two bank system when both banks are combined the failure of one battery can bring all the power down on a boat. I have a friend who insisted on leaving his Switch on Both until one day he woke up at anchor with both his batteries dead. Unknown to him his battery charger had quit working and although he was running the generator the 12V refigerator brought the batteries down. The rule is that batteries should never be combined via the switch except for a short time as a boost when needed to start the engine. If you want the alternator to charge both batteries when underway add an electronic battery combiner which will allow charging input to both but maintain separate output. That way if one battery fails or is drawn down the other will sit in reserve.
Benny-please reread my post
Benny, read it carefully, that's exactly what I recommended, but if he's not adding a combiner it's important to charge both banks while running the engine-the "safe" way to do that is charge one bank at a time, but IMHO most people forget to charge the start bank and it ends up discharged when you most need it. I've also upgraded to a high output Balmar and regulator, but the standard yanmar alternator takes forever to charge the batteries.
Benny, read it carefully, that's exactly what I recommended, but if he's not adding a combiner it's important to charge both banks while running the engine-the "safe" way to do that is charge one bank at a time, but IMHO most people forget to charge the start bank and it ends up discharged when you most need it. I've also upgraded to a high output Balmar and regulator, but the standard yanmar alternator takes forever to charge the batteries.
ideas and a note to Benny!
Benny, there are a few of us waiting to see photos of your "pilot seat. Please review your relevant post. The standard alternator on the 356 should be fine for the standard set up of 2 group 27 batteries, and take maybe an hour per battery at 2800 rpm loaded(under way). The problem is, as most of us have increased the size of the battery bank for extended time away from shore power, the 60Amp alternator does not have enough "Umph", as Chuck has said. I personally have 5 group 27 batteries and 1 starting battery. I may add 2 golf cart batteries specifically for the autopilot, and charge off the third output of the charger. The standard alternator CAN keep these topped off, but does not do well with deeply discharged batteries in this configuration.
Benny, there are a few of us waiting to see photos of your "pilot seat. Please review your relevant post. The standard alternator on the 356 should be fine for the standard set up of 2 group 27 batteries, and take maybe an hour per battery at 2800 rpm loaded(under way). The problem is, as most of us have increased the size of the battery bank for extended time away from shore power, the 60Amp alternator does not have enough "Umph", as Chuck has said. I personally have 5 group 27 batteries and 1 starting battery. I may add 2 golf cart batteries specifically for the autopilot, and charge off the third output of the charger. The standard alternator CAN keep these topped off, but does not do well with deeply discharged batteries in this configuration.
Thanks, for reminding me...
I'll take a picture of the seat and post it in the next few days. The reason I suggested a combiner is percisely the fact that people do forget to move the switch to charge both banks. I have seldom relied on the alternator to charge my batteries and do use the generator and shore power. Also I do not sport them huge banks. Here is a picture of the chair with me in it. i don't think you can see it very well.
I'll take a picture of the seat and post it in the next few days. The reason I suggested a combiner is percisely the fact that people do forget to move the switch to charge both banks. I have seldom relied on the alternator to charge my batteries and do use the generator and shore power. Also I do not sport them huge banks. Here is a picture of the chair with me in it. i don't think you can see it very well.
Another setup
I have two banks - A group 24 Lifeline for starting and 2 Lifeline 4D for house. I also have a 2000W Freedom Invertor/Charger and a 5KW Northern Lights genset. The bilge pump is direct wired to the starting battery and also has a switch at the DC panel. My normal battery switching is set to Invertor/Charge Both with one of the two toggle switches in the lower left hand of the battery switch panel being "on" Either activates the DC panel as the bank is in parallel. Control is through a Link 20 system. There is a combiner with an echo charger for the starting bank. The banks cannot be linked together so the house and starting systems are complely independent. Charging is through the invertor either by shore power, the standard alternator, or generator. We have heavy electrical loads and use the generator almost all the time while sailing so the salon area is maintained at a constant temp by running the AC unit for either heating or cooling. If we don't need the ac unit, then we can run on invertor power only. The load is about 30 amps with autopilot, instruments, lighting and other items (sat tv antenna and TV running). This gives me worst case about 6.5 hours to 50% capacity on my 440 amp house bank. I recharge with the genset at 100 amps. I don't use the battery bank below 50%. My system is relatively simple to operate, with the genset giving me maximum useage and flexibility.
I have two banks - A group 24 Lifeline for starting and 2 Lifeline 4D for house. I also have a 2000W Freedom Invertor/Charger and a 5KW Northern Lights genset. The bilge pump is direct wired to the starting battery and also has a switch at the DC panel. My normal battery switching is set to Invertor/Charge Both with one of the two toggle switches in the lower left hand of the battery switch panel being "on" Either activates the DC panel as the bank is in parallel. Control is through a Link 20 system. There is a combiner with an echo charger for the starting bank. The banks cannot be linked together so the house and starting systems are complely independent. Charging is through the invertor either by shore power, the standard alternator, or generator. We have heavy electrical loads and use the generator almost all the time while sailing so the salon area is maintained at a constant temp by running the AC unit for either heating or cooling. If we don't need the ac unit, then we can run on invertor power only. The load is about 30 amps with autopilot, instruments, lighting and other items (sat tv antenna and TV running). This gives me worst case about 6.5 hours to 50% capacity on my 440 amp house bank. I recharge with the genset at 100 amps. I don't use the battery bank below 50%. My system is relatively simple to operate, with the genset giving me maximum useage and flexibility.
yanmar alternator charging
Another important point to keep inmind is the spec game engine mfrs play-the yanmar alternator rating is "cold output" which drops off sharply as the engine heats up and the alternator heats up under load. My 55 amp std yanmar alternator only peaks at about 35 amps in use. Balmar and the other hi output mfrs rate at "hot output", so my Balmar 70 amp really puts out 70 amps at peak-double what you get from the standard alternator. In addition, the aftermarket external regulator charge faster than the simple built in regulator in the yanmar. they have profiles that better match the batteries acceptance rates, and usually monitor battery temp to prevent overcharging and damage
Another important point to keep inmind is the spec game engine mfrs play-the yanmar alternator rating is "cold output" which drops off sharply as the engine heats up and the alternator heats up under load. My 55 amp std yanmar alternator only peaks at about 35 amps in use. Balmar and the other hi output mfrs rate at "hot output", so my Balmar 70 amp really puts out 70 amps at peak-double what you get from the standard alternator. In addition, the aftermarket external regulator charge faster than the simple built in regulator in the yanmar. they have profiles that better match the batteries acceptance rates, and usually monitor battery temp to prevent overcharging and damage
Mark M
Where does one put 5 group 27's, a starter battery and two golf cart batteries on a 356? Paul
Where does one put 5 group 27's, a starter battery and two golf cart batteries on a 356? Paul
anywhere you can 
I added 3 battery boxes around the original box, and parallelled them together with 2 guage twisted copper cables. the golf cart batteries will probably go under the dinette seating, with appropriate ventilation, but I havent decided. One of my projects this summer is to enlarge the original battery box with starboard and epoxy to make it all look pretty.
I added 3 battery boxes around the original box, and parallelled them together with 2 guage twisted copper cables. the golf cart batteries will probably go under the dinette seating, with appropriate ventilation, but I havent decided. One of my projects this summer is to enlarge the original battery box with starboard and epoxy to make it all look pretty.
Mark M
Check the Photo Forum under "Pilot Seat H320". I forgot to include that the reason we do not leave the seat/step down is because the rain water falls directly on the Stop Switch and corrodes it.
Check the Photo Forum under "Pilot Seat H320". I forgot to include that the reason we do not leave the seat/step down is because the rain water falls directly on the Stop Switch and corrodes it.
- Status