Under Sink Water Filter

Tim R. · Jul 18, 2013

We have a taste, odor, chlorine under sink filter. It is a sears housing and takes a standard ~10 inch filter. Probably the same system you had 15 year,s ago. It works great. We drink our city water and our water maker water through that filter and it has great taste.

The on-faucet filters are nice but they limit the type of faucet you can install. We have a pull out sprayer on our faucet so it would not work.

The filters we use are also the same as our back-flush filters on our water maker.

gettinthere · Jul 18, 2013

We have a separate spigot from the main faucet. It has a general purpose filter. We then use that spigot to fill a brita pitcher that we put in the frig for cold drinking water. Mainly for filling our twist n sparkle.

Tim, tell us more about which filter you are using. Not just a 'dirt' filter?

Tim R. · Jul 18, 2013

gettinthere said:
We have a separate spigot from the main faucet. It has a general purpose filter. We then use that spigot to fill a brita pitcher that we put in the frig for cold drinking water. Mainly for filling our twist n sparkle.

Tim, tell us more about which filter you are using. Not just a 'dirt' filter?

We also have a Brita filter pitcher that we have found is redundant. The water tastes exactly the same without it. Now we just use it to conserve water waiting for the hot water to come up.

The filters we use are Matrikx CTO(Chlorine, taste, odor). I do not have the exact part number but similar to this http://www.amazon.com/KX-Matrikx-32...728&sr=8-13&keywords=filter+water+matrikx+cto

They come in different micron ratings but I think ours are 5. We live aboard and use a lot of water and they last at least 6 months(only filtering cold water in the galley).

RichH · Jul 18, 2013

For 'pure - 'hygienic' water' in a boat or RV ..... do your filtration 'off' the boat, filter as you fill your tanks.
Routinely 'sanitize' your tank and water distribution system, and keep a very small 'dosage' of chlorine in the water to kill/stun any microorganisms.

Funky water is the result of principally TWO things:
1. chemical fragments leaching out of the 'plastics'.
2. Microorganisms .... using the tank and system componentry as their 'nutrient source'. These are bacteria, fungals and other waterborne 'life forms'.

Filter the 'charging' (fill the tank) with a 1,2µM filter rated for the ***99.99% removal of 'oocysts' *** (Giardia Lamdlia and/or Cryptosporidium ... which are immune to chlorine and which are common pathogens in some places).
The next filter in the series to fill the tank is a carbon packed filter (any µM rating) ..... run the flow rate 'as slow as possible' to assure complete/maximized adsorption.
When finished charging the tank open the filters and shake out all remaining water and allow to dry.

System Components: Best is to remove/replace any 'plastic' or hose that is not specifically rated by NSF/FDA for 'potable water'.
Best tank materials: Stainless steel or UltraHighMolecularWeight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) .... are resistant to sanitization chemicals.
Best water pipe/hose: "PEX" a UHMWPE tubing system (commonly found on RVs)

Very Bad choices of materials: Fiberglass!!!!!!!!!!!!!, Aluminum, polypropylene, nylon, ..... the usual reinforced 'water hose' you find in boat supply stores !!!!!!!!
Worse choice of 'hose connectors': hose barb connectors - they provide a 'dead leg' space where microorganisms 'thrive'. Choose 'flair' connectors when possible (PEX, etc.)

Note: Any water system component that appears to have become 'oxidized' or has 'changed color' etc. should be immediately replaced. Nylon and polypropylene components are exceptionally subject to such degradation.

Other: apply a bio-blocking filter (~0,2µM hydrophobic) on the VENT of the tank - will prevent the aspiration of fungal spores and airborne bacteria INTO the tank.

Sanitization: 40 oz. of 'grocery store clorox' (5%) per 100 gallon tankage ..... apply to previously 'cleaned/scrubbed' tank, allow to 'soak' for 1-2 hours, then dump/rinse.
When to sanitize: A. At the start of every season B. anytime that when you open the tank and can feel a 'slime' growing on the walls of the tank.

Maintenance dosage: Standard dose: 4oz. of 'grocery store clorox' (5%) per 100 gallon
tankage Best dosage: enough 'clorox' in the water so that your NOSE can 'just barely' perceive the acrid smell of clorox in the water - tested monthly; if no 'hint' of clorine, add more chlorine/clorox; if STRONG perceptible smell of chlorine dilute with more input water.

The reason you do NOT want filters on the water system of your boat:
1. filters trap and collect/concentrate bacteria on the filter media ..... the reinfection will be 'retrograde' back into the tank.
2. The carbon used in 'absorbing' filters is a nutrient source for many microorganisms.

Proper sanitization and 'hygiene' all start with a thoroughly cleaned/scrubbed tank. If you dont have inspection / clean-out ports on your water tank, then you must/should sanitize MANY times before recommissioning the water tank. 10-15ppm Chlorine for minimum 1-2 hour 'soak' per sanitization ..... MANY sequential sanitizations are required for a blind tank, and then you still cant be 'sure'.

Tim R. · Jul 18, 2013

Claiming all fiberglass water tanks are bad is a very broad and inaccurate statement. The type of resin used is very important as is the material used to line the tank. Fiberglass tanks can be perfectly safe for drinking water if properly built and lined. They are used all over the world and likely used at your local water authority. The FDA approves the use of properly built fiberglass tanks.

RichH · Jul 18, 2013

Tim
I dont think Ive ever seen or witnessed a fiberglass boat water tank that came complete with certification of low amine epoxy, etc. Rather, I would offer that the great preponderance of fiberglass 'boat tanks' are built with common POLYESTER resins .... which are extremely subject to monomer emissions of Styrene - a listed carcinogen. If youve ever seen a fiberglass boat tank that came with an NSF 'potable water' certification, Id like to be so advised of the builder/make, etc.

Certainly in the ethical Pharma, food and beverage, etc. industries, 'fiberglass' tanks in systems in direct contact with potable process water are more than a rarity, not only for chemical fragment emissions concerns but also the potential of 'glass fiber' release.

Tim R. · Jul 18, 2013

Rich, the tanks on my Caliber were built with an FDA/USDA approved Polylite resin. What are your thoughts on that material?