Just pulled the cover off the water tank on my '92 H-28 (I've owned it about a year). What a mess! The water tank is in the V-berth, under a PLYWOOD cover. Let me be a little more specific: The top of the water tank is made of PLYWOOD! I had noticed some moisture collecting under the cushions, which I attributed to, perhaps, a leak in the anchor locker or the fresh water fill. WRONG! On further inspection, I noticed some moisture under the tank cover, and the beginings of what appeared to be delamination. When I removed the screws and tried to lift the cover, it disintegrated. And to my suprise and disgust, I discovered that the cover for the water tank was just a piece of plywood, with laminated plastic on each side. I expected to find a covered water tank with some type of inspection port, but noooooo! That brilliant piece of cost-saving technology comprised the entire top of the molded-in water tank. And to beat it all, it was calked with something that resembled roofing compound and 3M 5200 sealant. Did Hunter imagine no one would ever need to inspect the INSIDE of the water tank? The plywood was soaked, rotted, and after I peeled the plastic laminate off the rotten sub-strata, I had to remove what remained in chunks. The calking was infinitely stronger than the wood. What Bozo designed that system? I expected to find a covered water tank with an inspection port. Over all, I've been pleased with my Hunter, but this is the worst excuse for "quality" boat construction that I've ever seen. I'll fix it, and I'll fix it properly, but it really makes me question whether this boat was designed and constructed by marine architects or bean counters. Either way, the bean counters won this round! O.K., I've vented. Am I the first to encounter this problem?
"Unbelieveable" Water Tank Cover!
- Thread starter Robert147
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WOW, what crap!
I took all the screws out of mine too but could not get the cover off. I am having the same problem. You should have taken it apart and caulked every three years (just kidding). This is crap! Hunter tried to save money buy not buying parts from other manufactures. I plan to sell the boat cheap and buy a better built sailboat!
I took all the screws out of mine too but could not get the cover off. I am having the same problem. You should have taken it apart and caulked every three years (just kidding). This is crap! Hunter tried to save money buy not buying parts from other manufactures. I plan to sell the boat cheap and buy a better built sailboat!
Quality problem after 13 years!!!
Wow you guys are unreal. The thing has lasted for 13 or more years and you are complaining about the quality? Many of the owners have had to replace what you may consider QUALITY metal tanks after 5-6 years. We have been messing around with our tank ('85 H'31) for the last couple of years also. I finally through in the towel and had the old fiberglass cover glassed into the liner. There are two inspection ports in it now. Hopefully it will last for another 15 - 20 years. My friends, this is the cost of ownership.
Wow you guys are unreal. The thing has lasted for 13 or more years and you are complaining about the quality? Many of the owners have had to replace what you may consider QUALITY metal tanks after 5-6 years. We have been messing around with our tank ('85 H'31) for the last couple of years also. I finally through in the towel and had the old fiberglass cover glassed into the liner. There are two inspection ports in it now. Hopefully it will last for another 15 - 20 years. My friends, this is the cost of ownership.
On a lighter note...
I removed the boards from my 95 H29.5 so I can inspect the tank regularly for water level. I use a mirror and a flashlight to determine how low the water is. Yard wanted 16 hours of labor to install an electronic meter.
I removed the boards from my 95 H29.5 so I can inspect the tank regularly for water level. I use a mirror and a flashlight to determine how low the water is. Yard wanted 16 hours of labor to install an electronic meter.
They knew how to do it at one point.
My 1981 Cherubini Hunter 27 has an all glass water tank with an inspection port. After 24 years it's still perfect. Clearly, Hunter knew how to do it right at that time, but at some point they decided to do it cheaper and shoddier. That's just one reason why the Cherubini Hunters stand apart from the rest. As far as being a cost of ownership and lasting 13 years being reasonable, that's just ridiculous. There's no excuse for poor design on something so simple.
My 1981 Cherubini Hunter 27 has an all glass water tank with an inspection port. After 24 years it's still perfect. Clearly, Hunter knew how to do it right at that time, but at some point they decided to do it cheaper and shoddier. That's just one reason why the Cherubini Hunters stand apart from the rest. As far as being a cost of ownership and lasting 13 years being reasonable, that's just ridiculous. There's no excuse for poor design on something so simple.
Not standard maintenance nor cost of ownership!
Sorry Steve, but this ain't my first boat. This was a component installed by Hunter that could only fail. From the get-go, Hunter used sub-standard materials with a view only to cost saving, and the only method of replacement or inspection was demolition. We're not talking about bearings, belts or even hull blisters. Hunter installed commmon construction-grade plywood as an INTERIOR component of the water tank. No excuse. Hope you fare better - Robert
Sorry Steve, but this ain't my first boat. This was a component installed by Hunter that could only fail. From the get-go, Hunter used sub-standard materials with a view only to cost saving, and the only method of replacement or inspection was demolition. We're not talking about bearings, belts or even hull blisters. Hunter installed commmon construction-grade plywood as an INTERIOR component of the water tank. No excuse. Hope you fare better - Robert
wont come off
I am having the same problem with my 31, the water tank is leaking, ive tried pulling the lid , but had to stop because i was just tearing it up , I think im going to cut several access ports and try to fix the leaks through the holes and then hope i can repair the the edges ive damaged trying to remove the lid , it appears my lid was put on with expoxy or somthing stronger the fiberglass, ive used a little acetone tying to break the seal but was scared to use to much . thinking it might eat through the fiberglass and leave the epoxy or 5200 still there
I am having the same problem with my 31, the water tank is leaking, ive tried pulling the lid , but had to stop because i was just tearing it up , I think im going to cut several access ports and try to fix the leaks through the holes and then hope i can repair the the edges ive damaged trying to remove the lid , it appears my lid was put on with expoxy or somthing stronger the fiberglass, ive used a little acetone tying to break the seal but was scared to use to much . thinking it might eat through the fiberglass and leave the epoxy or 5200 still there
debonding solvent?
is there a good debonding solvent for 5200 or epoxy that wont damage the fiberglass?
is there a good debonding solvent for 5200 or epoxy that wont damage the fiberglass?
Steve D....
It is not how long it lasted, it was the poor construction method that Hunter used to save pennies! The amount of work Hunter has created for the owner is the problem! Hell simple replacing the metal tank with plastic would be heaven compared to what Rob had to go through!
It is not how long it lasted, it was the poor construction method that Hunter used to save pennies! The amount of work Hunter has created for the owner is the problem! Hell simple replacing the metal tank with plastic would be heaven compared to what Rob had to go through!
What's the solution?
Really feel bad for the guys who are having problems with your tank. I have an 85 h28.5 and my tank cover appears to be solid. The pressing question is, what will be the best repair method? I was thinking of plastic laminate cut to the same dimentions as the wood if mine should fail. Interestingly, the sewage holding tank is of a similar construction as the water tank. Has anyone had problems with that tank too? Thanks
Really feel bad for the guys who are having problems with your tank. I have an 85 h28.5 and my tank cover appears to be solid. The pressing question is, what will be the best repair method? I was thinking of plastic laminate cut to the same dimentions as the wood if mine should fail. Interestingly, the sewage holding tank is of a similar construction as the water tank. Has anyone had problems with that tank too? Thanks
Only solution is destruction.
Jeff, After ripping the plywood top off, I used a fine, sharp putty knife to scrape off the sealant. It is 3M 5200 sealant. It's nearly indestructable and solvent resistant. It's designed use is sealing structural components, like hull-to-deck joints, not ports or water tank covers. Using a jigsaw, You might be able to cut a couple of hand-holds about 4-5 inches from the edge of the cover, try to break the seal around the edge with a putty knife, and finally break the whole top free. Don't worry about trying to save the top: it's trash. Do try to save the laminate as a template, then have your local glass shop cut a piece of 1/2-inch lexan to replace the plywood. It will have the strengh you need, you can mount an inspection port in it (recommend at least a 6" port, so you can get your arm through it), and you can see through it. That's what I'm doing, anyway. But DON'T seal it back with 5200. A sanitary silicone marine sealant should be sufficient to prevent leakage - the mounting screws will provide the structural integrity. Good luck - Robert
Jeff, After ripping the plywood top off, I used a fine, sharp putty knife to scrape off the sealant. It is 3M 5200 sealant. It's nearly indestructable and solvent resistant. It's designed use is sealing structural components, like hull-to-deck joints, not ports or water tank covers. Using a jigsaw, You might be able to cut a couple of hand-holds about 4-5 inches from the edge of the cover, try to break the seal around the edge with a putty knife, and finally break the whole top free. Don't worry about trying to save the top: it's trash. Do try to save the laminate as a template, then have your local glass shop cut a piece of 1/2-inch lexan to replace the plywood. It will have the strengh you need, you can mount an inspection port in it (recommend at least a 6" port, so you can get your arm through it), and you can see through it. That's what I'm doing, anyway. But DON'T seal it back with 5200. A sanitary silicone marine sealant should be sufficient to prevent leakage - the mounting screws will provide the structural integrity. Good luck - Robert
When you put a new cover on...
Do NOT use any sealant. Instead, make a rubber gasket to go under it. A gasket will actually seal better than any sealant--gaskets don't have any air bubbles, cracks or leaks. They do have to be replaced every 5-10 years, but you CAN get the top off to do it. Rubber gasket material is available from most hardware stores...In a pinch, you can even use rubber weather stripping....though I saw a suggestion a UK site that may be even better: bicycle inner tube material.
Do NOT use any sealant. Instead, make a rubber gasket to go under it. A gasket will actually seal better than any sealant--gaskets don't have any air bubbles, cracks or leaks. They do have to be replaced every 5-10 years, but you CAN get the top off to do it. Rubber gasket material is available from most hardware stores...In a pinch, you can even use rubber weather stripping....though I saw a suggestion a UK site that may be even better: bicycle inner tube material.
New lid.
When you refabricate your new lid, you may want to consider using marine plywood again. make it slightly smaller than the opening. The lay it up with fiberglass and make a lip that could be glassed into the liner. If you setup is anything like on the H'31 the only thing you would need to do is grind off the gelcoat to create a bonding edge of the lid to bond to. If you have a baffle in the tank, you may want to put a water tight port on each side of the baffle for easy cleaning access.
When you refabricate your new lid, you may want to consider using marine plywood again. make it slightly smaller than the opening. The lay it up with fiberglass and make a lip that could be glassed into the liner. If you setup is anything like on the H'31 the only thing you would need to do is grind off the gelcoat to create a bonding edge of the lid to bond to. If you have a baffle in the tank, you may want to put a water tight port on each side of the baffle for easy cleaning access.
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