Turning Blocks at the base of the Mast

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Apr 29, 2012
233
Macgregor Venture 25 Council Bluffs, IA
My boat came to me with a plate under the mast that has holes for block attachment points. Now that I have changed to the mast step to the hinged style I cannot use the plate. The flanges interfere with the pivot and pin bolts. So I need suggestions on how to make the change of direction for my lines coming down the mast and lead aft.
 

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
Dwyer sells the hinged base and the deck organizer as a compatible pair.



Can your organizer plat be flattened out or trimmed to accommodate the hinges?
Pictures would be helpful. I don't think you don't have to insert both pins.

You could use deck mounted turning blocks and cheek blocks, but this is much sexier.
 
Apr 29, 2012
233
Macgregor Venture 25 Council Bluffs, IA
My plate has flanges on all 4 sides. I use bolts with a locknut on the pivot bolt and a bolt and wingnut. I do like the pins in the drawing. I could modify the plate so that I could remove the pins. I'd also have to cut the ends off. Do able, but I wounder if there is a better way.
 

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
You could use deck mounted turning blocks and cheek blocks, but deck plate is much sexier. The organizer plate is not that expensive.
 

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Apr 24, 2006
868
Aloha 32 Toronto, Lake Ontario
Or use halyard turning blocks. They mount on the mast and stay on the mast, so no line threading plus they don't jamb or rattle when the line is not under tension. No backing required like deck mounted blocks (or holes in deck).

Chris


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Apr 29, 2012
233
Macgregor Venture 25 Council Bluffs, IA
Hey Chris, that is something like what I had in mind. I like that. I think I'll take another look at modifying the plate that I have. As well as the Halyard turning blocks you mention. I considered the deck mounted blocks, but can see several downsides to them as you mention a couple.

The rattle you mentioned is another concern with using the plate.
 
Nov 19, 2011
1,489
MacGregor 26S Hampton, VA
I swiped the plate of my old boat before I junked it. This was before I put the plate on.

image-3951574421.jpg

I then put a deck organizer and a set of clutches in. In hindsight I should have brought the organizer aft a little rather than have it at a 90 degree angle but the holes are punched now.
 
Mar 30, 2013
700
Allied Seawind MK II 32' Oologah Lake, Oklahoma
Or use halyard turning blocks. They mount on the mast and stay on the mast, so no line threading plus they don't jamb or rattle when the line is not under tension. No backing required like deck mounted blocks (or holes in deck).

Chris


View attachment 66965



View attachment 66966

My '94 26S has a 2-up version of that mounted on the deck leading to starboard at about a 30 degree angle to a double organizer then to a double line clutch.
 
Sep 5, 2007
689
MacGregor 26X Rochester
If you add halyard turning blocks to the mast, be sure the fleet angle is as close to zero as you can reasonably get. If you have to mount it/them on the curved part of the mast, use the split footed type like that in Chris' (holdech) pic. You can gently bend the feet to conform to the curve in the mast. Or use a hinged unit, but they're much more money for the same series block, and not necessary IMO, as they're really intended to handle changes in line direction, whereas a halyard always follows the same line.

I would avoid mounting it to the deck if at all possible, as any penetration is a potential leak point, and a way for water to get to the core. I would also try to keep the plate, and notch it for the hinge pin, as you never know what you may want to do in the future. If it's not in the way, then there's no harm in keeping it.
 
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