Last Sunday, the Admiral (my wife) and I were goofing around on Long Beach harbor. We were cruising along when the leeward stay turnbuckle (i.e., the one not under strain) suddenly separated! She leapt into action and reattached in quickly but we're a bit young for the heart palpitations we experienced. I thought it must have just been unscrewed too far (which is odd because we don't adjust the turnbuckles generally) and separated that last little bit. However, on the way back to the launching ramp it happened three more times! Each time it was the same turnbuckle (though they are both the same model) and each time it was not under strain (we began motoring at that point). Is there something I should be doing that I'm not doing such as putting lock-tight on the screw or something? Or should I just chalk it up to cheap equipment and replace them immediately? Any ideas why this only happened while not under pressure but has never happened while under pressure? Thanks in advance!
Turnbuckle separated!
- Thread starter rohare
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When a turnbuckle is not under strain, it can "back out".
That's why most folks put split-rings in them. The ends of the shrouds and the pin ends ( the two ends with the threads) usually have a small hole in them. The split-ring goes through the hole and around the outside of the turnbuckle. This stops the threads from unscrewing.
You can also use SS welding wire, mousing wire or anything else that attaches the threaded bits to the turnbuckle.
HTH
That's why most folks put split-rings in them. The ends of the shrouds and the pin ends ( the two ends with the threads) usually have a small hole in them. The split-ring goes through the hole and around the outside of the turnbuckle. This stops the threads from unscrewing.
You can also use SS welding wire, mousing wire or anything else that attaches the threaded bits to the turnbuckle.
HTH
Here's how to do it with S.S. welding wire:
Thanks to Brian Toss.
You can also do this with traditional pattern turnbuckles. You just bend the ends the other way around into the body.
Thanks to Brian Toss.
You can also do this with traditional pattern turnbuckles. You just bend the ends the other way around into the body.
It is standard practice to lock turnbuckles. This is why each threaded part has a small hole in its end.
Some makes have small screws threaded into these holes but others simply use stainless steel cotter pins which should not be reused (though many people do!) - or welding wire - thanks for the tip Roger.
The reason yours kept coming apart was probably because, in the haste to reconnect it under way, you may have put put several twists into the rigging wire. As soon as the load came off the wire simply untwisted itself and unscrewed the turnbuckle.
You will notice that the lower half half has a thread in the opposite direction to the upper half. The idea is to undo both halves completely and then offer each threaded part to the main body at the same time, rotating the body so that each screw takes up the same amount. Whilst doing this don't allow the upper screw to turn as it will put twist into the wire again.
Tighten up the same amount on each side of the boat and then pull the main halyard taut down to the deck fitting on each side of the boat to check the mast is upright.
Put a cotter pin temporarily in each hole and expand it just enough to stop it from falling out.
Then go sailing.
Sail on one tack and see how slack the lee shroud is. Pull the cotters out and count the number of turns the body needs to just remove the slack in the wire.
Now undo half this number.
Tack and put the same number of turns on to the other shroud. i.e. half the number you first put on the other side. Thus you will have actually added the same number to each side.
Re fit all the cotters properly bending the legs open and you are done.
It seems likely that none of your turnbuckles were locked and very likely the rig is not set up at all well. I suggest checking your mast rake before doing any of the above by hanging something heavy (like your toolbox) on the main halyard, on a calm day, and noting how far behind the aft side of the mast it hangs when just above or below the goose neck. Most boats like about 1° of rake (6" in 30' of mast). Do this check and adjust if necessary before setting up the shrouds.
You might also like to cover the sharp ends of the cotters with white tape to stop them tearing sails and people. Don't cover the whole turnbuckle though because stainless steel needs to be exposed to avoid corrosion.
Some makes have small screws threaded into these holes but others simply use stainless steel cotter pins which should not be reused (though many people do!) - or welding wire - thanks for the tip Roger.
The reason yours kept coming apart was probably because, in the haste to reconnect it under way, you may have put put several twists into the rigging wire. As soon as the load came off the wire simply untwisted itself and unscrewed the turnbuckle.
You will notice that the lower half half has a thread in the opposite direction to the upper half. The idea is to undo both halves completely and then offer each threaded part to the main body at the same time, rotating the body so that each screw takes up the same amount. Whilst doing this don't allow the upper screw to turn as it will put twist into the wire again.
Tighten up the same amount on each side of the boat and then pull the main halyard taut down to the deck fitting on each side of the boat to check the mast is upright.
Put a cotter pin temporarily in each hole and expand it just enough to stop it from falling out.
Then go sailing.
Sail on one tack and see how slack the lee shroud is. Pull the cotters out and count the number of turns the body needs to just remove the slack in the wire.
Now undo half this number.
Tack and put the same number of turns on to the other shroud. i.e. half the number you first put on the other side. Thus you will have actually added the same number to each side.
Re fit all the cotters properly bending the legs open and you are done.
It seems likely that none of your turnbuckles were locked and very likely the rig is not set up at all well. I suggest checking your mast rake before doing any of the above by hanging something heavy (like your toolbox) on the main halyard, on a calm day, and noting how far behind the aft side of the mast it hangs when just above or below the goose neck. Most boats like about 1° of rake (6" in 30' of mast). Do this check and adjust if necessary before setting up the shrouds.
You might also like to cover the sharp ends of the cotters with white tape to stop them tearing sails and people. Don't cover the whole turnbuckle though because stainless steel needs to be exposed to avoid corrosion.
Yes, if you don't mind blood on the deck. Gobs of tape help but look awful.
You can buy a lifetime supply of the welding rod at a welding supply store for about 20 bucks and it's useful for all sorts of other things. Clean, neat, and easy.
Just in case you have closed body turnbuckles, you then would use the locking nuts to secure the turnbuckle body in place. The hole and cotter pin/ring/seizing wire is not applicable.
And keep a very close eye on the locking nuts. The tension on the stay relieves the pressure on the nuts and they can then get turned by lines or passing feet so that they no longer lock.
Replace them with open body turnbuckles when the opportunity arises.
If you ask they can order silicon bronze for you at about the same price as standard brazing rod.
Lock those turnbuckles with clevis rings. Use a small wrench, vice grips or pliers to keep the top stud from turning when you adjust the turnbuckle.
By the way, you should let the admiral steer while this bosun's work is being done... officers don't work on the boat.
By the way, you should let the admiral steer while this bosun's work is being done... officers don't work on the boat.
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