Turnbuckle lubricant?

JBP-PA

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Apr 29, 2022
474
Jeanneau Tonic 23 Erie, PA
I've used SailKote every spring on my turnbuckles, but since I recently ruined a pair, I'm wondering if there is a better option. I used SailKote because it is dry and won't collect dirt, plus "For everything that moves or slides" right?. I've seen people recommend grease, but I fear that will collect dirt. What about Teflon?
What say ye?
 
Jan 11, 2014
12,173
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I used McLube for exactly the reasons you cite, it is dry and does not collect dirt and grime. There are other options, such as Lanocote, but any solid greasy formula would collect dirt and that isn't helpful. I suppose something like WD40 that evaporates quickly might be an option, just spray it right before threading the barrel on to the stud.
 
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Jan 1, 2006
7,357
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
What is the connection between Sailkote and ruining two turnbuckles? Did they seize?
 
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Mar 26, 2011
3,596
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I've used SailKote every spring on my turnbuckles, but since I recently ruined a pair, I'm wondering if there is a better option. I used SailKote because it is dry and won't collect dirt, plus "For everything that moves or slides" right?. I've seen people recommend grease, but I fear that will collect dirt. What about Teflon?
What say ye?
Yup, not a good lubricant for the application.

The other problem may be that stainless/stainless was used for the turnbuckles. This is common on smaller boats and prone to galling. Larger boats use stainless/bronze, often chrome plated. If the bodies are stainless, there are probably bronze thread inserts if you check the specs.

A heavy grease is what you want, perhaps with Teflon. I like Tefgel. It is sticky, so wipe off the excess. Not hard. Additionally, rotate the turnbuckles very slowly and no more than 1/4 turn at one time, and then wait 10 seconds. The heat VERY quickly inside at the interface and need time to cool.

In fact, Sailkote is only for a few specific things. Sail slugs, non-rolling bearings, and sliding hatches. It is not a general boat lube. It is not for bolt threads or ball bearings (plastic ball bearings get one drop or light oil, very little--read the label). It is not for winches.

Note that Sailkote is for everything that slides, not everything that moves. One Drop is for plastic ball bearings. Neither is for threads or gears.

At Harken, we use McLube Marine products for lubrication. Harken has been distributing McLube products for a long time. In the beginning, there was McLube® Sailkote™ dry lubricant spray, and we merrily sprayed everything to make it more slippery! With the success of Sailkote, McLube got to work developing new products specifically tailored for different applications.


The original Sailkote works best on everything that slides. Try it on your spinnakers, luff tapes, and sliding battcars. You’ll be amazed at how it reduces friction. It sprays or wipes on, dries in seconds, and unlike oils, silicones and waxes, will not attract dirt and water contaminants. Here’s another neat trick: Spray a little Sailkote on your telltales, and they won’t stick to your wet sail!


OneDrop™ ball bearing conditioner is specifically formulated for things that roll: ball and roller bearings in blocks, traveler cars, and Harken Battcars. Make sure things are clean first, or you’re defeating the purpose of lubricants. Use OneDrop in very small amounts (one drop in each bearing race), and you’ll see a significant reduction in friction under load. But use too much and the bearings may skid rather than roll. So please curb your enthusiasm!

 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,076
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I believe in the use of Corrosion Block.
 
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Jun 8, 2004
1,045
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
LanoCote or Permatex Anti-Seize (nickle for SS turnbuckles, copper for bronze). Its all about lubricating the threads. Save the Sailkote and McLube for slides and blocks.
 
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JBP-PA

.
Apr 29, 2022
474
Jeanneau Tonic 23 Erie, PA
FYI, RiggingOnly said
"... just any type of a light lubrication, do not overload."
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,596
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
We are talking about TWO DIFFERENT THINGS HERE. You do NOT use the same lubricant for both.
  • Bronze/stainless rigging screws. Oil is fine. Seldon even sells one. Bronze and stainless do not gall, although they do need a lube to reduce turning force, reduce wear, and reduce corrosion.
  • Stainless/stainless screws. First of all, you should not use these for standing rigging, but small boats, such as the OP's, often do. The correct lube for these is heavy grease or antiseize.https://e-rigging.com/pages/galling-in-stainless-steel.html. You also need to unload the screw before adjustment if possible, and turn very slowly, with a 20 second rest for cooling every 1/4 turn. Google it.
These are two VERY different situations. The OP needs antiseize. Google stainless galling, not rigging screws (since ss/ss is not a true rigging screw).
 
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dLj

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Mar 23, 2017
3,772
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
The best anti-galling compound for stainless on stainless threaded fasteners that I've ever used is:


dj
 
Feb 10, 2004
4,065
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I've been following this thread, and I have a question.
Is it a good idea to lube the turnbuckles each year, or just when they are moved?
 

dLj

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Mar 23, 2017
3,772
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
I've been following this thread, and I have a question.
Is it a good idea to lube the turnbuckles each year, or just when they are moved?
I typically do it when first installing. Then after that only when I'm doing major adjustments.

I don't know the right answer though, that's just what I do.

dj
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,951
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I would be of the opinion, for what it's worth, that if the applied lubricant has a greaselike composition, that it would seal off the threaded channel and prevent the washout of any further lubricant.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,596
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
This boat ad larger boats, I don't pull the stick for decades at a time, so I don't run them out. Putting lube on the tops is not on my annula list.

However, if inspection (Loos gauge or mast behavior) suggests that adjustment is needed, I ...
  • Measure the tension of all stays.
  • If a stay requires adjustment, I route a halyard or such near by and remove as much pressure as possible, back the turnbuckle off at least 4-5 turns, grease top and bottom of each thread, and and only then re-tighten.
  • Tightening is VERY slow, once there is any resistance. 1/4 turn, wait 5 seconds, another 1/4 turn, and so forth. The slow turning is only needed for the last 1-3 revolutions. If it is SS on SS (galling risk) I wait a little longer and do more to take the tension off.
I'm sure oil is good, if you are maintaining regularly. I'm pretty sure most of us don't, unless we have to pull the stick each winter.
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,187
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
About 8 years I have had Tally Ho, and I have never lubricated the turnbuckles.:yikes:

I store the boat mast-up.

Greg
 

MFD

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Jun 23, 2016
110
Hunter 41DS Seattle
Stainless certainly can gall.

+1 on manufacturer directions all the way down just spit on it. ;)

Anything lightweight should work. CLP or locksmith oil, thinned lanacote, teflon plumbers tape.

We are not dealing with stainless here like for high pressure systems, but my understanding is:

1. A little lubrication goes a long way.
2. As others have noted, slow down a touch as pressure increases. You can generate a lot of heat within the threads.
3. Being a marine environment - whatever lube you use, make sure it is lightweight. Anything heavy or thick will attract salt.