Troubleshoot propane

[Canoe]

Can someone help with troubleshooting the propane system on my 97 Hunter 336. I upgraded the propane control to include a sniffer for propane vapors. The control wire had shorted out and I had to re-thread a new control wire, that was fun. The system is in and operational, I think. The propane heater, located in an aft compartment works just fine. However the cook top doesn't work. I opened the valves on the cook top long enough to purge any air. But still no hiss of propane or would it support a flame.

I'm aware that the propane line is continuous from the propane locker to the cook top. Is there a valve at either end of the line? Or can anyone think of a reason why propane would flow to the heater and not to the cook top.

Canoe

 

[Rick]

Interesting. On our 336, we dont have a propane heater. Do you only have one solenoid in the propane locker? For our stove top/oven to work you must flip the breaker at the panel AND the propane switch located in the galley wall below the sink. If there is only one solenoid and you are turning these switches on then in theory you should be getting gas in the loop since the heater works. Pull out your manual and make sure you are lighting the stove correctly. On our stove, I always light the most aft burner when she has been sitting for a while. And once again, not to insult but you have to push the burner knob in while you light it. I dont believe our stove, two burner Hildebrand ( i think) has a valve at the back but.. I havent looked.

Best of luck

 

[Benny]

You need to depress and keep depressed the burner knobs to bypass the thermocouple valves until the unit gets up to temperature. Most of the propane system problems can be traced to a faulty selenoid or wiring. For safety reasons when a selenoid fails it defaults to its off position shutting down gas. Determine wether your propane detection system also controls a 2nd solenoid and ascertain its location. All supply hoses should be continuous from propane locker to appliances. If you have two propane appliances in the boat there should be two supply lines going out of the propane locker. An indicator of a possible faulty solenoid is that it gets overly hot. It is desirable that when two selenoid switches are employed that either of them independently should be able to shutoff all gas to the boat. Although is not recommended I have had the occassion of removing and bypassing a faulty solenoid to be able to use the stove when there was no replacements available. I just kept the tank valve closed when the stove was not in use. If the removal of the solenoid corrects the problem and after testing for adequate 12V power to the leads ithen the solenoid is faulty. Good luck.

 

[Canoe]

Benny,
Thanks for the comment. There is just one solenoid in the propane locker. It was replaced and is working well, thus propoane flow to the heater. If there ever was a second electrical switch, its nolonger in the circuite, becasue I had to run a new control line. I've never seen the propane switch located in the galley wall below the sink. Is it electrical or a propane valve. Also, I've not been holding the cooktop valve in, to by pass the flame sensor. I've got to shovel the snow off the boat this weekend, so I'll try your suggestion.

Thanks
Canoe

 

[Benny]

The switch in the galley is an electrical switch. It is known as the control switch and it will remotely turn on and off the solenoid in the propane tank. The reason it is located at arms length of the galley is to be able to remotely shut off the gas flow in an emergency like a stove flare up. That switch is connected to a breaker in the main panel. By upgrading the control switch to include a gas detector what you in fact may have done is to enhance the ability to manually shut the flow off with an automatic interruptor which will shut off the flow for you if it detects gas. Like you have said if the heater is working it means the solenoid is open and the control switch is operating properly. Your problem is localized at the stove. The thermocouple valves located at the burners serve to prevent gas leaks in case an open burner looses its flame. The thermocouple valves are temperature switches; when they warm up the allow gas flow but when they cool off they shut the flow. Consquently a burner that has not been in use is cold and the valve does not allow gas to flow. By pushing the knob in you by pass the valve allowing gas flow and by holding it in after the burner lights you allow for the valve to reach a temperature where it allows flow. I think this may be your problem. Some stoves will allow gas to get to some burners quicker than others and the burners may sputter before gas flow is stabilized but that is a matter of learning the quirks of each appliance. Sorry about the snow, the forecast for tomorrow is 82 degrees and I'm going for a day sail with some friends.

 

[Canoe]

Re: The 336

Rick,
You responded with a personnel email, but your profile doesn't allow a personnel response. My email is hayenga_2@comcast.com. Please email me about Hunter 336 issues. I'd hate to think I had to solve all by myself.

Canoe/Jeff

 

[Rick]

Canoe,
Reset my preferences. Should be able to email me. Since our boats are not a dime a dozen, its great to get to talk to another owner.

Cheers