I've only sailed the boat once so far but cannot get the boat to stay up against the bow bumper on the trailer. I'm pulling the trailer with a 3/4 ton chevy off of the bumper and wonder if the height of the bumper may cause the boat to slide back off the trailer?? I'm going to replace the trailer winch and am wondering if the previous winch was on correctly. The handle is on the starboard side of the trailer and the rope unrolls from the bottom of the roller on the winch. Does this seem correct?? Thanks for any help. Lee
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Me too!
Lee, my boat has the same problem. I think it may be the design of the skids under the boat. This is serious because it can affect the center of gravity of the trailer, causing fishtailing. One Mac guy I know always removes the motor before getting on the highway. Some move the c/g forward by moving the wheels back. More force on the front eye will only cause it to pull out. Please let us know if you find a solution that works for you. You might try spooling off the top of the winch to give it extra lift, but that may not help much.
Lee, my boat has the same problem. I think it may be the design of the skids under the boat. This is serious because it can affect the center of gravity of the trailer, causing fishtailing. One Mac guy I know always removes the motor before getting on the highway. Some move the c/g forward by moving the wheels back. More force on the front eye will only cause it to pull out. Please let us know if you find a solution that works for you. You might try spooling off the top of the winch to give it extra lift, but that may not help much.
Difficult to get Right
It takes some practice to get the bow against the bumper. In general when you are putting the boat on the trailer, the bow is resting on the trailer, but the stern is floating. When you pull forward, the stern drops and therefore the upper part of the bow moves backward. You don't say what size boat this is, but with my 18 footer, I can winch it forward after I get back on dry land. On my MAC 23, I have to move the trailer forward in increments and winch it forward to keep the bow against the bumper.
It takes some practice to get the bow against the bumper. In general when you are putting the boat on the trailer, the bow is resting on the trailer, but the stern is floating. When you pull forward, the stern drops and therefore the upper part of the bow moves backward. You don't say what size boat this is, but with my 18 footer, I can winch it forward after I get back on dry land. On my MAC 23, I have to move the trailer forward in increments and winch it forward to keep the bow against the bumper.
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Lee
It's for a mac 25 I just bought.
I wonder if it would help if I raised the rearend of the bunks??
I wonder if it would help if I raised the rearend of the bunks??
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Marty26d
Easy bow fix
Had the same problem with my Mac 26d.. Realitively easy fix... Mount a length of 3/8" plus chain to the tower with a ring and clevis..Winch the boat up tight and slip the pin through the bow eye..this will compensate for slack/stretch in the winch line. BUT remember to undo it before lanching or your'e in deep doo-doo. Marty26d
Had the same problem with my Mac 26d.. Realitively easy fix... Mount a length of 3/8" plus chain to the tower with a ring and clevis..Winch the boat up tight and slip the pin through the bow eye..this will compensate for slack/stretch in the winch line. BUT remember to undo it before lanching or your'e in deep doo-doo. Marty26d
When is it moving?
Lee - Are you saying that the boat moves while you are going down the road? Or just that you have that extra inch or two after you get up the ramp? With the 26M and X models, the 2 inches that appears as you pull the boat up the ramp is very common, as described above by Dan. For this little bit, we have what you'll see referred to as the "MacGregor bump". The "bump" refers to going about 10 mph on a flat road and then hitting the brakes hard, thus sliding the boat up against the bow bumper where you then winch it in tight and tighten your safety tie-down. Once you have the boat fully in against the bumper, use a tie-down strap on the back, even if your State doesn't require it, and the boat should not move. - AndyS
Lee - Are you saying that the boat moves while you are going down the road? Or just that you have that extra inch or two after you get up the ramp? With the 26M and X models, the 2 inches that appears as you pull the boat up the ramp is very common, as described above by Dan. For this little bit, we have what you'll see referred to as the "MacGregor bump". The "bump" refers to going about 10 mph on a flat road and then hitting the brakes hard, thus sliding the boat up against the bow bumper where you then winch it in tight and tighten your safety tie-down. Once you have the boat fully in against the bumper, use a tie-down strap on the back, even if your State doesn't require it, and the boat should not move. - AndyS
K
Kory
Macgregor Bump
All Macs do this. No need to replace the winch. The thing you need to do is commonly refered to as the "Macgregor bump". Get the boat on the trailor and tow it to a level surface. tow the boat at about 15MPH and stop HARD. The boat will then move up on the trailor. You will then need to winch in the slack. This is a common problem with all the Macs and is nothing to worry about as long as you do the bump. Good Luck!!!!
All Macs do this. No need to replace the winch. The thing you need to do is commonly refered to as the "Macgregor bump". Get the boat on the trailor and tow it to a level surface. tow the boat at about 15MPH and stop HARD. The boat will then move up on the trailor. You will then need to winch in the slack. This is a common problem with all the Macs and is nothing to worry about as long as you do the bump. Good Luck!!!!
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Lee
Thanks, I'll try the bump
I had to replace the winch anyway because the handle had become wollered out and would just spin sometimes and not turn the winch. Thanks, Lee
I had to replace the winch anyway because the handle had become wollered out and would just spin sometimes and not turn the winch. Thanks, Lee
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RichardL
Me too!!
I am glad I am not the only one!! I thought that because I am also a new 26S owner, it was something I was doing wrong not being able to get the bow up against the stop. I tried winching, and that did niot work, then I tried a soft version of the "bump" at about 5 mph and that did not work, so I will try next time at about 10-15 mph as suggested. Another thing I am going to try is spraying the carpet on the bunks with "Liquid Rollers" which is supposed to "make your bunk boards act like rollers". Of course that is for normal trailers with the bunk boards running front to back, not the Mac trailer, but it may help. It is available from West Marine and I believe it is make by Marykate. The WM item # is 1244805 and it is shown on page 767 of their current catalogue. The link to the product is below.
I am glad I am not the only one!! I thought that because I am also a new 26S owner, it was something I was doing wrong not being able to get the bow up against the stop. I tried winching, and that did niot work, then I tried a soft version of the "bump" at about 5 mph and that did not work, so I will try next time at about 10-15 mph as suggested. Another thing I am going to try is spraying the carpet on the bunks with "Liquid Rollers" which is supposed to "make your bunk boards act like rollers". Of course that is for normal trailers with the bunk boards running front to back, not the Mac trailer, but it may help. It is available from West Marine and I believe it is make by Marykate. The WM item # is 1244805 and it is shown on page 767 of their current catalogue. The link to the product is below.
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Bob
25 bunks
are parallel to the centerline of the boat, the later 26 trailers are perpendicular. They must have changed for a reason, but the problem seems universal. This is what I have on my 25, same solution that Marty uses (but I have a pic).
are parallel to the centerline of the boat, the later 26 trailers are perpendicular. They must have changed for a reason, but the problem seems universal. This is what I have on my 25, same solution that Marty uses (but I have a pic).
B
Bob
oops, I did it again
I still have trouble actually ATTACHING the photos I have... it sucks to get old.
I still have trouble actually ATTACHING the photos I have... it sucks to get old.
Macgregor lift
Haven't needed the Bump much, but there are two problems for the 22' boats. One is getting the keel on centerline, as the trailer doesn't guide the keel on like a 25. We found the easiest way was for two or more guys to simply grab the transom and heft it left or right; the 22 isn't too heavy to shift it a few inches. The other problem we had was on a steep ramp, the stern is still floating as the bow reaches its bumper, causing the bow ring to be lower than it should be. We now pull up on the bow when necessary to get it to the right position. Otherwise there is a bit more slack in the strap than usual, and the boat comes out too far back and too low in the bow.
Haven't needed the Bump much, but there are two problems for the 22' boats. One is getting the keel on centerline, as the trailer doesn't guide the keel on like a 25. We found the easiest way was for two or more guys to simply grab the transom and heft it left or right; the 22 isn't too heavy to shift it a few inches. The other problem we had was on a steep ramp, the stern is still floating as the bow reaches its bumper, causing the bow ring to be lower than it should be. We now pull up on the bow when necessary to get it to the right position. Otherwise there is a bit more slack in the strap than usual, and the boat comes out too far back and too low in the bow.
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Kes
Boat slips on trailer
Lee ... you did not state the model you have, so ... let me add my 5 cents to the discussion. My experiendce is with my Mac25 ... a) Boat slides "back" on trailer - if it REALLY slides back, make sure the keel rests on the trailer after the boat is hauled ouit of the water. I believe what is actually happening is that the hull pivots around the bow because the trailer is atangle when the boat is hauled out ... just like others have described. The "bump" is a technique that works, although I would suggest relocating the winch so that it pills the boat PARALLEL to the trailer bunks! The standard Mac trailer winch pulls the bow DOWN instead of PARALLEL to the trunk! b) PArking bow in the trailer "V" bumper - the standard MAc trailer does not have guides to keep the hull centered on the trailer while retrieving the boat from the water. The solution: Build you own "hull "V-guides" onto the front of the trailer ... two guides spaced eauqlly between the front bunk crossbeam and the point where the trailer side beams join together in the front. To obtain the correct V-guide angle, build them with the boat on the trailer ... 2x4 treated lumber works well ... don't forget to put marine carpet on these guides to prevent scratching the hull. Unfortunately, you will probable still need the "bump" technique to set the boat, but ... at least it will stay on the trailer!
Lee ... you did not state the model you have, so ... let me add my 5 cents to the discussion. My experiendce is with my Mac25 ... a) Boat slides "back" on trailer - if it REALLY slides back, make sure the keel rests on the trailer after the boat is hauled ouit of the water. I believe what is actually happening is that the hull pivots around the bow because the trailer is atangle when the boat is hauled out ... just like others have described. The "bump" is a technique that works, although I would suggest relocating the winch so that it pills the boat PARALLEL to the trailer bunks! The standard Mac trailer winch pulls the bow DOWN instead of PARALLEL to the trunk! b) PArking bow in the trailer "V" bumper - the standard MAc trailer does not have guides to keep the hull centered on the trailer while retrieving the boat from the water. The solution: Build you own "hull "V-guides" onto the front of the trailer ... two guides spaced eauqlly between the front bunk crossbeam and the point where the trailer side beams join together in the front. To obtain the correct V-guide angle, build them with the boat on the trailer ... 2x4 treated lumber works well ... don't forget to put marine carpet on these guides to prevent scratching the hull. Unfortunately, you will probable still need the "bump" technique to set the boat, but ... at least it will stay on the trailer!
I've worked with it a little
I've had some sucess with pushing up on the bow while the boat is in the water and winching the boat up. I only have a very small space between the rubber bumper and the bow. The bump doesn't work for me at this time. I think its because the carpet is so worn out that its down to the rubber core. I'm going to pre make some new bunks to install the next time I'm out. Hopefully i'll have more luck with the bump then. Thanks again for all of the help, Lee
I've had some sucess with pushing up on the bow while the boat is in the water and winching the boat up. I only have a very small space between the rubber bumper and the bow. The bump doesn't work for me at this time. I think its because the carpet is so worn out that its down to the rubber core. I'm going to pre make some new bunks to install the next time I'm out. Hopefully i'll have more luck with the bump then. Thanks again for all of the help, Lee
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Dana_26D
Pulled Bow-Ring
The first time I towed my 26D I made sure she was snug into the bow bumper. I travelled about 20 miles to the marina and found she had slid back 2 or 3 inches. It was loose enough to allow the bow to bounce on a couple hard bumps, which pulled the bow ring bolts about a half inch further into the fibreglass. I've tightened them down from the outside but this winter I'll reinforce the fibreglass from the inside and add a SS backing plate.
The first time I towed my 26D I made sure she was snug into the bow bumper. I travelled about 20 miles to the marina and found she had slid back 2 or 3 inches. It was loose enough to allow the bow to bounce on a couple hard bumps, which pulled the bow ring bolts about a half inch further into the fibreglass. I've tightened them down from the outside but this winter I'll reinforce the fibreglass from the inside and add a SS backing plate.
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