Trouble removing prop shaft

[vidalia]

I have an S2 11 with Volvo penta MD 17C, Walter v-drive. I need to replace the propeller shaft bearing. I tried using a homemade strut-pro like device along with a "smoke wrench" and and half can of PB blaster without success, so I am on to removing the prop shaft. The three coupler bolts came off easily, as did the hex headed set screw. I can pull the prop shaft through the shaft log and strut freely, however I cannot get the coupler flange off the prop shaft. I am concerned that it is not a normal press fit tapered shaft, since the coupler flange moves about 1/8th inch back and forth on the prop shaft. Any advice?

 

[Maine Sail]

Cut the shaft or use-a buck Algonquin coupling puller..your coupling is straight not tapered. Thereis a 99% chance you’ll need a fiit & face/new coupling anyway..

 

[Maine Sail]

Be sure you DO NOT get any Pb on the output seal or you will be rebuilding the gear box..

 

[dlochner]

The Buck Algonquin prop puller works well. After pulling the coupling replace it with a split coupling, the next time will be much easier.

 

[kloudie1]

Ya probably have a giant burr on the shaft where the set screw point was pushing. That is keeping the shaft from coming out. The fit is ruined, as Maine says, since the shaft is sliding in the coupling.

 

[vidalia]

Be sure you DO NOT get any Pb on the output seal or you will be rebuilding the gear box..

Thanks! I only used the Pb blaster on the strut. The bolts and set screw came off so easily on the coupler, I thought I was home free. The key even slid out without a problem. I guess if things aren't too tight, they are too loose!

 

[vidalia]

Cut the shaft or use-a buck Algonquin coupling puller..your coupling is straight not tapered. Thereis a 99% chance you’ll need a fiit & face/new coupling anyway..

So it sounds as if there is no difference in how you remove a straight versus a tapered shaft. I knew if it was a tapered shaft there should be no play in the coupler flange at all, I guess that is true for a straight shaft as well? Thanks!

 

[vidalia]

Ya probably have a giant burr on the shaft where the set screw point was pushing. That is keeping the shaft from coming out. The fit is ruined, as Maine says, since the shaft is sliding in the coupling.

Thanks!

 

[vidalia]

The Buck Algonquin prop puller works well. After pulling the coupling replace it with a split coupling, the next time will be much easier.

Thanks, I will look into that. Hopefully there will not be a next time for a while!

 

[NYSail]

I removed my coupling this spring……. Had a regular puller on for a few days. Would go back and put a little heat on it and tighten the puller. After the heat I would tap with a hammer. On day 3 it popped off. Make sure nothing is in the way as it came off with force.I bought the puller mentioned above but my smaller one ended up doing the job.
On my last boat the coupling was so rusted I ended up cutting the coupling off…..

good luck
Greg

 

[Tally Ho]

I pulled my shaft a few years ago, and getting the coupling off the shaft was the hardest part. If the shaft is going to be replaced, it is easier to cut it in pieces and remove it. I took mine out whole, but ended up replacing it.

But if you want to keep it, here is what I did…

Greg

 

[vidalia]

For the record (because I always like to know how these things turn out): I used a steering wheel puller like the one pictured, and the shaft came out with no problem. The shaft did not appear tapered on the transmission end. The inside of the coupler was slightly scored at the end. The end of the set screw was damaged but the dimple in the prop shaft looked OK as did the prop shaft itself. I replaced the set screw, polished the inside of the coupler flange with a scotch-brite type scrub pad and put everything back together. Coupler lined up perfectly with zero clearance in any direction between the two haves using a 0.0015 feeler guage, so I guess the shaft is aligned pretty well too. Launch is Tuesday.

 

[Tally Ho]

Glad you got the coupling off. We’re you then able to slide the shaft out past the rudder?

I don't think that the coupling end of the shaft is tapered. Just straight. But the coupling is usually a ”press fit” on the shaft when new. If it is loose, that isn’t good.

Good luck with the launch! With out short sailing season on the Great Lakes, you have some catching up to do!

Greg

 

[vidalia]

Glad you got the coupling off. We’re you then able to slide the shaft out past the rudder?

I don't think that the coupling end of the shaft is tapered. Just straight. But the coupling is usually a ”press fit” on the shaft when new. If it is loose, that isn’t good.

Good luck with the launch! With out short sailing season on the Great Lakes, you have some catching up to do!

Greg

You cannot take the prop shaft off without dropping the rudder and that mean removing the skeg boot which is glued on with a permanent adhesive on the S2 11. But that is a whole 'nother story. We had taken the rudder off to repair a leak and some delamination anyway. Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought a press fit required a tapered shaft. With a straight shaft you rely on the key to keep the coupler and the prop shaft rotating together and the set screw to keep the prop shaft from sliding out of the coupler, and your boat. The old set screw was slightly damaged, less than finger tight, the prop shaft dimple showed some wear, and the coupler is a scored right above the dimple. We replaced the set screw and used blue loc-tite and a wrench.

I have foot and ankle surgery scheduled the first of August followed by 8 weeks of non-weight bearing and then 4 months in a CAM boot, so my season is pretty much shot! But we went sailing this weekend - beautiful!

Great video. Thanks!

 

[Tally Ho]

You cannot take the prop shaft off without dropping the rudder and that mean removing the skeg boot which is glued on with a permanent adhesive on the S2 11. But that is a whole 'nother story. We had taken the rudder off to repair a leak and some delamination anyway. Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought a press fit required a tapered shaft. With a straight shaft you rely on the key to keep the coupler and the prop shaft rotating together and the set screw to keep the prop shaft from sliding out of the coupler, and your boat. The old set screw was slightly damaged, less than finger tight, the prop shaft dimple showed some wear, and the coupler is a scored right above the dimple. We replaced the set screw and used blue loc-tite and a wrench.

I have foot and ankle surgery scheduled the first of August followed by 8 weeks of non-weight bearing and then 4 months in a CAM boot, so my season is pretty much shot! But we went sailing this weekend - beautiful!

Great video. Thanks!

I think you should still fit and face a “straight” shaft and coupling.

Read through this article by Maine Sail, in particular the section on “A new Split-coupling”. He specifically talks about fitting a straight shaft and coupling (Whether a split or solid coupling).

A New Prop Shaft - Marine How To

Originally Published 2014 Cutlass Bearing Removal Every now and then a boats propeller shafting need to be replaced. A replacement can be necessary due to corrosion, bending, wear at the stuffing box, wear a the cutlass bearing or a poorly installed/machined shaft to begin with.

marinehowto.com

Greg

 

[vidalia]

I think you should still fit and face a “straight” shaft and coupling.

Read through this article by Maine Sail, in particular the section on “A new Split-coupling”. He specifically talks about fitting a straight shaft and coupling (Whether a split or solid coupling).

A New Prop Shaft - Marine How To

Originally Published 2014 Cutlass Bearing Removal Every now and then a boats propeller shafting need to be replaced. A replacement can be necessary due to corrosion, bending, wear at the stuffing box, wear a the cutlass bearing or a poorly installed/machined shaft to begin with.

marinehowto.com

Greg

Got it! Makes sense the difference between a tight press fit with a tapered shaft and and "light" press fit with a straight shaft. We probably do need a new coupler. Our shaft went back in the coupler with only manual effort (no need to tap with a dead blow hammer) and although the coupler does not slide back and forth on the shaft 1/8 and inch like it did before, something was not right. I am pretty sure the prop shaft has not been pulled for at least 20 years, if not 40 years, and who knows how long the coupler has been loose, or if it was a loose fit to begin with. A poorly fitted or loose coupler could explain why the set screw looked damaged (it had been doing all the work of keeping the shaft in the boat!). Keeping an eye on it for now.