Tricks to Drain Hotwater Heater
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In Hot Water
Each year I let the taps run until empty, disconnect the hose from the water pump and push air through the system using a small 12v compressor. It seems to get almost all of the water out of the system Mike
Each year I let the taps run until empty, disconnect the hose from the water pump and push air through the system using a small 12v compressor. It seems to get almost all of the water out of the system Mike
Thanks Mike, But?
I follow what Mike says and the winters in Canada are cold but, what about the water in the hotwater tank? The inlet hose is at the bottom of the tank and the supply to the taps is at the top of the tank - air would blow most of the water out of the lines, but I would think the air would bubble up through the hotwater tank and leave quite an amount of water in the tank. It could be that there is enough room left in the tank with that procedure to allow the water to freeze without cracking the tank?
I follow what Mike says and the winters in Canada are cold but, what about the water in the hotwater tank? The inlet hose is at the bottom of the tank and the supply to the taps is at the top of the tank - air would blow most of the water out of the lines, but I would think the air would bubble up through the hotwater tank and leave quite an amount of water in the tank. It could be that there is enough room left in the tank with that procedure to allow the water to freeze without cracking the tank?
Install a valve
I installed a vall on the inlet hose so when winterizing time comes around (just did last Sunday), I can undo the inlet hose without dropping any water (pressure off of course!) after having opened the drain valve (on my Seaward 6-gallon the drain valve is located higher than the inlet!)to bring water level down inside the tank. Once there is no more water coming down the drain valve, I disconnect the outlet and connect it to the inlet thus by-passing the hot water tank. You can then open the valve at the inlet and drain the rest of the water out of the tank. I will install a hose from that valve to the bilge in the spring to avoid filling a jar several times. There will be almost no water left in the tank if any at all, and whatever is there has lots of room for expansion. Once the hot water tank is by-passed, it becomes a simple matter to turn the pump on and drain your freshwater tanks almost completely. Add couple of gallons of non-toxing antifreeze (the pink stuff)in the freshwater tanks and then run the pump again, turning the faucets opened one after the other (don't forget the hand held shower head if so equipped!)until the pink stuff runs out. Turn pump off and leave faucets half opened.Your system is now winterized. It gets to 30 below here and I have never had a problem. Good luck
I installed a vall on the inlet hose so when winterizing time comes around (just did last Sunday), I can undo the inlet hose without dropping any water (pressure off of course!) after having opened the drain valve (on my Seaward 6-gallon the drain valve is located higher than the inlet!)to bring water level down inside the tank. Once there is no more water coming down the drain valve, I disconnect the outlet and connect it to the inlet thus by-passing the hot water tank. You can then open the valve at the inlet and drain the rest of the water out of the tank. I will install a hose from that valve to the bilge in the spring to avoid filling a jar several times. There will be almost no water left in the tank if any at all, and whatever is there has lots of room for expansion. Once the hot water tank is by-passed, it becomes a simple matter to turn the pump on and drain your freshwater tanks almost completely. Add couple of gallons of non-toxing antifreeze (the pink stuff)in the freshwater tanks and then run the pump again, turning the faucets opened one after the other (don't forget the hand held shower head if so equipped!)until the pink stuff runs out. Turn pump off and leave faucets half opened.Your system is now winterized. It gets to 30 below here and I have never had a problem. Good luck
Type of tank?
I am not sure what you have in your H30, but in my H33 I have a 6(?) gallon round tank. Very similar to a minature H.W. tank found in you home. It might even be the type used in RVs. Anyway, it has a drain towards the bottom where you can attach a garden hose. After pumping out by opening the hot and cold water taps, I disconnected the input hose and output hose from the H.W. tank, and spice them together with a plastic hose-spicer. I then attach a garden hose to the H.W. tank drain, open, and drain all the water out of the tank. When I then add pink antifreeze to the fresh water tank and pump it through the system, all lines are used until pink comes out of the faucets. The H.W. tank stays empty of water and antifreeze. My theory is that if there is a little water left in the tank, so what? The resulting ice has plenty of room to expand, and nothing is damaged. This has worked for over 20 years on this boat here in Rochester, NY. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
I am not sure what you have in your H30, but in my H33 I have a 6(?) gallon round tank. Very similar to a minature H.W. tank found in you home. It might even be the type used in RVs. Anyway, it has a drain towards the bottom where you can attach a garden hose. After pumping out by opening the hot and cold water taps, I disconnected the input hose and output hose from the H.W. tank, and spice them together with a plastic hose-spicer. I then attach a garden hose to the H.W. tank drain, open, and drain all the water out of the tank. When I then add pink antifreeze to the fresh water tank and pump it through the system, all lines are used until pink comes out of the faucets. The H.W. tank stays empty of water and antifreeze. My theory is that if there is a little water left in the tank, so what? The resulting ice has plenty of room to expand, and nothing is damaged. This has worked for over 20 years on this boat here in Rochester, NY. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Tank bypass.
In addition to all the fine posts you can buy a tank bypass at West Marine, probably cheaper at an RV supply. I bought one but could not get the hose connections out of my tank to add the new ones. So I sold it. I will continue to use Kevin's method. Just butt the two hoses with a short piece of plastic pipe and clamp. I did add a marelon right-angle connector to the drain. Then I added a short section of hose so I could direct it into the right place in the bilge. Just leave her open for the winter.
In addition to all the fine posts you can buy a tank bypass at West Marine, probably cheaper at an RV supply. I bought one but could not get the hose connections out of my tank to add the new ones. So I sold it. I will continue to use Kevin's method. Just butt the two hoses with a short piece of plastic pipe and clamp. I did add a marelon right-angle connector to the drain. Then I added a short section of hose so I could direct it into the right place in the bilge. Just leave her open for the winter.
use your oil change pump
After I disconnect the hoses from the h/w heater and connect them together, I use my hand-pump vacuum oil extractor (with hose tip saved only for this) to get all the water out of the bottom of the heater. It also gets whatever sludge may have settled to the bottom of the tank.
After I disconnect the hoses from the h/w heater and connect them together, I use my hand-pump vacuum oil extractor (with hose tip saved only for this) to get all the water out of the bottom of the heater. It also gets whatever sludge may have settled to the bottom of the tank.
Thanks From Rick
Thanks for all the ideas! I was hauled out today, took another look at the tank. The tank has a drain on the back side-away from the main access in the port rear berth, I can get at the drain by removing a panel down in the deep starboard storage compartment. Will drain, disconnect in and out hoses, connect same together to bypass tank after drained. I also like the idea of using the oil change pump- that would eliminate having to get to the drain by going into the tank through the top out hose. Well thanks again, will be winterizing on the hard. Rick...
Thanks for all the ideas! I was hauled out today, took another look at the tank. The tank has a drain on the back side-away from the main access in the port rear berth, I can get at the drain by removing a panel down in the deep starboard storage compartment. Will drain, disconnect in and out hoses, connect same together to bypass tank after drained. I also like the idea of using the oil change pump- that would eliminate having to get to the drain by going into the tank through the top out hose. Well thanks again, will be winterizing on the hard. Rick...
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