This also will work for any other CB boat using this design of mounting plate for the CB. I just dropped the centerboard on my 1995 H26 to re-surface the leading edge and bottom. The bottom surface needed to have new fiberglass added and to be epoxied and painted. I raised the boat and trailer about 3 1/2', supported both bunk rails (with boat above) in 3 places at the bunk mounting locations. I then unbolted the bunk vertical supports and lowered the trailer to the ground with the tires off. I could then remove the CB. I completed the fiberglass repairs and paint and re-installed the CB with a new uphaul line. The original 7/16" line was showing a good ammount of wear deckside aft of the deck line orginanizer. It was virtually new down through the compression post and into the CB. When rehanging the CB you must align the CB stainless steel support plate perfectly with the 3/4 bolt hole at the compression post. Danm good trick as you can't see the plate and can't feel the plate. HERE'S THE TRICK. Buy a grade 5 bolt, with 3/4 inch course threads about 3 to 4 inches long. Cut the bolt head off with a hacksaw. Locate or buy a piece of steel rod 1/4 to 3/8 inch diameter and 12 inches long. Both cutoff bolt and rod must be standard steel, not SS. Now weld the rod to the cut off surface of the bolt. Be sure to keep it centered and straight. Any welding shops can do this for less than $10. Less than $20 with parts supplied by the shop. Now install this bolt assembly about 3 to 4 threads deep into the CB mounting plate. Be sure the threads are clean and lightly lubricated. From the bottom, insert the bolt/rod into the mounting bolt hole aft of the compression post and raise the CB into the pocket under the boat. You might have to raise the cabin table for the rod to have enough room to be raised. When the CB is in the full up position and wedged, in this upright position, carefully remove your bolt/rod and install the original factory SS bolt. Piece of cake. This entire project took about 25 hours and at least 1/2 or slightly more was in the repair of the fiberglass and epoxy. Ray S/V Speedy
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Nice Information Ray - how many beers?
Very informative and will save this in my files. You left out how many beers did it take? I might need to stock up before trying this. Jim S/V Java
Very informative and will save this in my files. You left out how many beers did it take? I might need to stock up before trying this. Jim S/V Java
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Interesting comment on the line. I suppose the sun helped accelerate the wear on the line. I used a large punch from above to line the holes while the board was pushed into place. This was on a newer boat that was improperly rigged so normal line wear couldn't be accessed Jeff Peltier
Interesting comment on the line. I suppose the sun helped accelerate the wear on the line. I used a large punch from above to line the holes while the board was pushed into place. This was on a newer boat that was improperly rigged so normal line wear couldn't be accessed Jeff Peltier
My centerboard on a 23.5
When I reinstalled the centerboard on my 23.5 I did not need a guide rod for the bolt. I am not sure if it makes a difference but my boat was not on the trailer. It was on stands and the centerboard was fully down. I was able to lift the centerboard into position and my wife installed the bolt. Actually we did it three times. Just want to provide some additional info.
When I reinstalled the centerboard on my 23.5 I did not need a guide rod for the bolt. I am not sure if it makes a difference but my boat was not on the trailer. It was on stands and the centerboard was fully down. I was able to lift the centerboard into position and my wife installed the bolt. Actually we did it three times. Just want to provide some additional info.
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