Traveler rigging

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Alan

Hello everyone! I have two rather simple questions regarding rigging for the original design travel car on the Catalina 22. My first question: If I used a small fiddle block w/becket attached to the traveler and and a single block (with or without a becket) attached to the boom, would there be sufficient strength to hold? Or should I use a double block instead of a single at the boom end to acquire more purchase on the rigging? Secondly: The travel bar has two adjustment rings at each end which allows the traveler to move approximately 1-1 1/2' in both directions from the center of the bar. Adding additional rigging, ropes, & clam cletes to the side pulleys of the traveler just seems unnecessary to me since the fiddle block setup appears to work without it and the traveler only moves so far. It would seem to me that given enough rope on the fiddle block, the boom would move easily anyway. Does anyone have any information/illustrations regarding this? I know of the 1987 Catalina 22 Owner's Manual regarding this but that traveler setup is different from the original.
 
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rick

travel or not to travel

I have a traveler rig on my sailboat and there are blocks and cleats on each side to adjust it. I secure it in the middle and never touch it. I guess it has a useful purpose when racing for squeezing more performance out of the main. But, I do not race; my sailboat is geared for cruising slow and steady in comfort. If you plan on racing, I suggest you do some research on the correct rigging and use of the traveler. If you are not going to race, secure it in the middle and forget about it. That’s my 2 cents. Smooth sailing my friend, Rick
 
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Rod

traveler discussion

On June 20, there was a very good discussion about travelers. The final post by Bayard Gross was an excellent presentation of the original traveler. The thread title was "main sheet", you can find it by searching the archives (model: 22, forum: smaller boats) or try the related link to this post.
 
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Bayard Gross

C-22 Traveler

I am not positive by exactly what you mean by “The traveler bar has two adjustment rings at each end…”. If your boat is old enough, you may have those rings that wrap round the traveler bar and held in place by thumbscrews. By tediously going astern, you adjust the traveler position by unscrewing the thumbscrews and pushing the traveler car to its new position and then locking it by screwing in the thumbscrews on the rings. Yea, it is dumb, and probably best if removed. If you have to cut the rungs, then maybe just place them as far out board as possible. However, you may be referring to the eyes in the flat plates mounted on the bottom of the traveler bar where it meets the transom. In the original Catalina set up, lines where attached to these rings which then ran to the “side pulleys” on the bottom of the traveler car and then back to cam cleats mounted just above the seat inside on the transom. In this fashion, one obtained a two to one purchase to adjust the traveler; however, one still has to go astern to make the adjustment. Nevertheless, as small as the traveler movement appears, it is significant and useful. When sailing extremely close hauled there is an advantage to moving the traveler to weather, especially in conjunction with inboard genoa tracks allowing you to gain another five degrees or so of up wind performance. Sometimes that makes for a tack that prevents problems. However, this advantage is only as good as it is easy to use. The original Catalina set up is not easy to use. Hence, on my C-22, I lead the lines from the “side pulleys” on the traveler bar to small cheek turning blocks mounted on the aft part of the cockpit cowling. There should also be bulls eyes before the cheek turning blocks as the cheek turning blocks are mounted a bit forward to clear the stern light on the starboard side and without the bulls eyes the line crosses into the cockpit and interferes with opening the lazzarette hatch. From here, the lines turn forward along the top of the cowling to another cheek block about amidships in the cockpit just before the jib sheet winches and cam cleats. The lines then turn inward to cam cleats. In this way, I can sit well forward to adjust the traveler, as easily as I adjust the jib sheets I also scrapped the two to one purchase by belaying the lines directly to the “side pulleys”, skipping affixing them first to the rings on the bottom of the traveler bar. Granted this creates a harder pull, but not unreasonable for a 22 foot boat. Further, the traveler action is nearly twice as fast.
 
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Alan

Traveler, etc.

Thanks for your info. The traveler I purchased from Catalina Direct as well as many other items. The boat is circa 1970. There is nothing to speak of as to traveler rigging setup and other hardware although I have systematically replaced almost everything, except my balding head. The adjustment rings are on the bar itself which I'm sure you know are adjustable and somewhat combursome to deal with under sail. Additional pulleys, rope, blocks for the traveler...there is nothing other than my own present design and upgrade. I may add addition side blocks/rope/cleats to the traveler but not until I see how well it operates with present fiddle block w/becket and boom block(s) (I have two, one a single and the other a double). At the moment, all I am looking for is mild stability for cruising, refined handling will come later. As I asked, I believe either boom block will work well enough to support adequate operation although I suspect that the double boom block will provide better purchase and easier handling. Alleviating the need for a "wandering traveler" with the remaining fiddle block/boom block I suppose would simplify the situation for now. But regardless, experience will be the teacher here until I've had enough time to realize the value of other sailor's experience with this model. Until then, thanks for your response and know that I do appreciate your information, I will save your response for the future...smooth sailing brother.
 
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