Traveler Replacement on 37C

[PhilaSailor]

Hello,

I've done some extensive upgrades and refits to my Hunter/Cheribini 37 cutter. My attention is now on the main and cutter travelers. Newer travelers have ball bearings for much easier adjustment. There is no access to beneath either traveler without cutting fiber glass.

Some of the available travelers work by sliding a washered bolt into the bottom of the track. Is it possible to use existing hole and bolts in a new traveler ?

Is there a modern traveler car that could use the existing track ?

I'm sure some of the 37C have replaced their travelers. Any insight would be appreciated !

Michael ("Alpha")

 

[Jim Legere]

I think you will find the original traveller for the staysail (Schaffer brand, I believe) is just screwed into the deck. There may be some aluminum plate glassed in the deck lay-up. And this may be tapped for machine screws. If your main traveller - also Schaffer - is on the cabin top (1982 and later models), the mounting method would be similar. There are definitely no nuts and washers between the interior headliner and the deck. If your main traveller is on the bridgedeck in the cockpit (pre 1982), you should be able to tell if it is thru-bolted from the cockpit locker. I never replaced either of my travellers. BTW, my current boat has some of those fancy Harken ball bearing traveller cars...they sure roll nicely but they're a real PITA to remove/re-install (ball bearings tend to go everywhere!).

 

[PhilaSailor]

The cleats in the cockpit use a rivet or threaded plate. I'm hoping the traveler does the same. Lewmar and Harken have sliding track which should work using the existing threaded holes. Defender has the kits for $750 to $1000. All to let the traveler move much easier. Looked at the Antal, Schaefer and Ronstan and all these seem to need to drill holes in the track to hit the existing treaded holes or just don't line up with the existing holes.

This is a winter project. Anyone have thoughts/experience on upgrading the traveler ?

 

[Dalliance]

I replaced my traveler with a more robust one from Garhauer about 10 years ago. Very happy with it. Re-used the same threaded bolt holes. My ‘82 H30 has aluminum plate laminated into key spots on the cabintop for drill & tap machine screw connections. I just sent the old traveler to Garhauer and they matched the screw hole locations on the new track.

 

[PhilaSailor]

Thanks Dalliance !

The Garhauer rail happens to to be 1-1/2" wide to match the cabin top, non ball bearing traveler I currently have. The Garhauer replaces what I have exactly. The rest of the rails available (Harken etc) are much smaller and require quite a few more mounting bolts that may not line up on glassed in metal plates that I have. I found there are glassed in metal plates with threaded 1/4" bolts. The bolts are all within 12" of the rail ends. The rail on what I have and it seems on the Garhauer are much beefier, only 6 bolts are needed that easily match the metal plates I have.

The traveler replacement is a winter project. I'll update my actual experience on my cutter 37 with Garhauer here.

 

[Brian Dunn]

This thread caught my eye because I have a 1979 37C (Hull #23) and I'm envious of the 198x 37Cs that have the traveler on the cabin top instead of in the cockpit. Of all the differences between the older and newer 37Cs, that really stands out for me, because with the newer version I could set up a bimini/dodger combination that wouldn't have to deal with the mainsheet running between them. I know that the YouTube sailing channel "Sailing Good, Bad, and Ugly" features a 1979 Hunter 37C with such an adaptation, but having followed their channel for awhile, it looks like a previous owner set it up, so they don't offer much useful info about the conversion operation. I'd love to hear from anyone who has made the conversion or is seriously contemplating it.

 

[Jim Legere]

I had a 1983 H37C with the cabin top traveler. It is definitely a more convenient setup but mid-boom sheeting is more complicated than end-boom sheeting due to the loads it imposes. You will need 3 bails on the boom to distribute the load and a six-part mainsheet. The preferred traveler hardware seems to be Garhauer (in N. America anyway). They make a traveler that comes with end pillars that bolt to the cabin top, but you will need backing plates inside and you will be bolting through the deckhouse laminates and the interior liner. The factory cabin top traveler was bolted to the deck at several points port and starboard, but was unsupported where it crossed over the companionway slider. I didn't like how the track flexed in the middle and planned to beef it up (but never did). I think the Garhauer is probably a stronger traveler.

 

[Brian Dunn]

Thanks, Jim, that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I noticed the 3-point boom attachment in photos and artwork of the newer 37C's. If it's convenient for you to send me a picture or two of your current setup on the boom and cabin top, I'd be very grateful.
Do you have a bimini/dodger combo on your boat?

 

[Jim Legere]

Thanks, Jim, that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I noticed the 3-point boom attachment in photos and artwork of the newer 37C's. If it's convenient for you to send me a picture or two of your current setup on the boom and cabin top, I'd be very grateful.
Do you have a bimini/dodger combo on your boat?

Alas, my H37C is no more...but I'm sure someone else will be able to provide you with photos and info. My boat had the bimini and dodger with a removable transition piece that zipped the two together. It also had a complete set of side curtains that, when in place, would completely enclose the cockpit. A poor man's pilot house I used to call it. It was a great set up for here on the Canadian east coast.

 

[PhilaSailor]

Hello,

Jim has it right on the deck top traveler. There are 2 bolts into glassed in metal plates on each end of the traveler. The Garhauer track measures out to be beefier than the stock Hunter Lewmar traveler. The center of the Lewmar lifts about 1/2" when tight to the wind.

I'm unable to move the traveler when the main is tight. The ball bearings in modern travelers hopefully address this along with a 4 to 1 or 5 to 1 pulley advantage versus the 3 to 1 on the Garhauer. The 4 bolts of the Lewmar comes up easily with an impact screw driver as the actual threads are protected from the weather.

I'm considering the Garhauer MT-UB-1 or the MT-2-TP https://www.garhauermarine.com/product-category/travelers/travelers-1/ both at $750 and $800. Garhauer works by sending your Lewmar to them so they can drill the holes to exactly match the Lewmar. The MT-2-UB-1 has the shives on the car and end pieces on the side, rather than stacking them on the top. Anyone have any thoughts on this ?

With 3 connection slots on the MT-UB-2, I could add a bale and get a greater pulley advantage. Has anyone done this ?

Michael
'83 Hunter "Alpha"

 

[Jim Legere]

Since Brian's boat is pre-1982, he has no flat surface for a traveler molded on the cabin top. He will also need a pair of Garhauer's traveler risers, which will need to be through-bolted as there will be no glassed-in metal plates either.

 

[PhilaSailor]

Hello,

To round out this posting, I went with the Garhauer. They could not have been more helpful. I sent the Lemar traveler to them to match the holes. The Garhauer has ball bearings allowing easy adjustment when tight. Un installing the Lewmar and reinstalling the Garhauer was quick. Garhauer matched the holes and bolt sizes.

This was a nice upgrade in looks and function.

Michael (Alpha)

 

[kappykaplan]

Any photos to share of your upgrade?

 

[PhilaSailor]

I'll be on the boat tomorrow and will post some pictures. The Garhauer is the same price at the major brands and is twice as beefy. Customer service is virtually a custom product every time as it is made from the traveler you send them. I did the 6 to 1 on the traveler and the main sheet. This make sail trim way easier and more precise. Now I fell I have to get a new main sail to take advantage of this.