Traveler hardware advice

[marke14]

Hello everyone,

We own a 25' sloop, a Universal Marine (St. Pete) Montego 25. It has a traveler track mounted just in front of the companionway entrance, and the boom is sheeted midway back from the mast.

I replaced the cam fiddle block that one uses to set and trim the main, as well as the mainsheet long ago. However now as I use the traveler much more than I did while learning to sail the boat and I'm longing to replace the traveler bits before they just break.

Just received my Sailrite catalog a couple of days ago and I've come to learn that the top part is called an eye strap. I noticed that the stats for the Harken ones don't seem to list working and breaking loads, not sure what to make of that. I am nonetheless going to replace that just for peace of mind.

The real thing that needs replacement are the blocks under the eye strap.

I believe it's a Kenyon unit; my boom and mast are. It slides smoothly enough, I don't know if I should bother replacing the car or whatever you call it that slides under the I track?

Anyway, I think I can get the cams easily enough - they appear to be standard size - but the inner wheels I am not so sure ... in the pic above you can see how effed the block is around the edges.

TIA Have a nice day

 

[DayDreamer41]

Kinda like this
http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2734

 

[PaulK]

If the machine screws (?) that hold the sheaves on the traveler (and which hold the eyestrap down) will come out, you should be able to replace the sheaves easily. The trick is to find matching ones so the machine screws fill the holes in the new sheaves but still allow easy turning (perhaps there are bushings we can't see in the photos), the new sheraves fit the vertical space properly, and also work with the control lines. Replacing two sheaves for $8.00 will be a lot cheaper than a new traveler control at $289.

 

[DayDreamer41]

@PaulK, that was kinda of the idea of pointing toward the Harkin site, they have all the parts and bits to do exactly what you are suggesting.

 

[PaulK]

I'd probably take the old sheaves over to West Marine and see what matched. Getting the right parts shipped could be a big game with no winners.

 

[cb32863]

Swapped out my entire traveller last spring with all Harken.

Documented here, http://danssailingblog.blogspot.com/2016/04/traveller.html

 

[Bob J.]

Try Rigrite for kenyon traveler parts.
Probably have what you need.

 

[marke14]

Everyone: Thank you very much for the suggestions and links!

I will try to get those sheaves out of the housing (beneath the eye strap) and I will take them down to WestMarine to see what I can find down there, before I break out my digital caliper and get "fancy" trying to order stuff by mail.

Plus then I can go into the WM sail hardware aisle and give the various blocks a "spin" - I love the sound of those brand-new ball bearings racing around with very little friction - ziiiiiiinnnnng!

I'll post an update here once I see what I'm dealing with. Thanks again guys.

 

[jwing]

I agree with the advice given so far and marke14's plan. I'll add two bits beyond that:
1) If you decide to replace the travel car, you might find that you have to replace the track, too. There is not a universal size or shape.
2) If your traveler doesn't slide smooth and easy like marke14's does, then consider changing out the whole assembly and be aware that there are different grades of bearings. Some travelers have simple friction bearings, which are OK in some situations. In other situations, you would be better off with high quality ball bearings.

 

[marke14]

Thanks for the tips, jwing. I am eager to avoid the ball bearing nightmare as described in Dan's blog post linked above ("Torlon balls everywhere!! Oh how they roll…"). Been there, done that (with other projects) - no thank you!

 

[agprice22]

You can measure the sheaves and try Schaeffer marine. They sell all sizes of wire and rope sheaves.

 

[marke14]

I went sailing on Saturday and had another look at my traveler car. It rolls on wheels so fortunately there are no loose ball bearings to worry about, at least not on that front. I got wrapped up in other projects and forgot all about it while I was down there. I will give it a go soon.

In terms of replacing the cam cleats I guess I'll look for ones that have the captive thingy, to hold the line close; surely they must make these aftermarket as well ...