Looking at a i50 Tridata Raymarine and was wondering what type of transducers other boat owners use. I have a 272 and if I went with a through hull it would be about 2' ahead of the keel and centered. It seems to be a pretty flat area here. The boat is currently on a trailer and drilling can only be made along the center line due to the trailer bunk locations. In-hull seems not to be as accurate from what I have been reading. Would like to hear what others have done. Thanks!
Transducer...in-hull or through hull?
- Thread starter 87roadracer
- Start date
I have the same boat and applied the small Faria with the in-hull transducer while in the water. Seems to work just fine. Mounted transducer behind keel and port side under 1st inspection cover at rear berth. Auxillary power is a 9.9 outboard so no inboard motor noise interference at this location. Since your boat is out of the H2O I would probably mount a Thru-Hull.
Happy Dolphin 2.
Happy Dolphin 2.
On my previous 2 boats and my current H27, I merely glassed a 3" PVC to the hull, filled with mineral oil and capped it off. I did not have any problem with depth readings. Personally I prefer less thru-hulls.
Read the transducer instructions well. I installed a Hawkeye unit http://www.hawkeyeelectronics.com/boat-depth-finder/ In my boat but could not get a reading. I called the factory. They said it is not at all unusual for a (inside)hull mounted transducer not to get a signal. I used a thru hull and works fine.
So if you are going with the Inside hull mount, wait until you get the boat back into the water. Follow the directions for testing before you bond it to the hull. (follow the instruction as to the proper adhesive)
However, I'm with happy Dolpfin. get the hole saw out !!!
So if you are going with the Inside hull mount, wait until you get the boat back into the water. Follow the directions for testing before you bond it to the hull. (follow the instruction as to the proper adhesive)
However, I'm with happy Dolpfin. get the hole saw out !!!
I don't know why people are so afraid to drill holes in their hulls. If you use a hole saw and go with a tight fit and then use a polysulfide caulk like Boat Life's Life Calk (top and bottom), you will have not problems with leaking and you don't have to lose sleep over whether or not you get a good sounding through the hull with an in hull type transducer.
How do you pass the wire through the cap, a hole with a rubber bushing, caulk or something else?
I have a 79 ODay 28 and sm looking to install a Hawkeye depth sounder. The salesman said that if thehull is not cored, the in hull transducer will work fine. My question is how to tellurium the hull is solid fiberglass or wood cored?
Test first!!!
Four important takeaway points:
Test in-hull transducers in the water and under sailing conditions (or at speed for power boats) before you do any cutting or installing.
Transducers are simple devices that make a click and then listen for it. I'm told there is very little that can go wrong with them . If your depth gauge is not working, it's most likely the display where the brains are. Check with the factory to see it your existing transducer will work with a low-cost in-dash readout like the Hawkeye.
Never cut/splice/ or shorten the lead to the transducer with out first consulting the factory or a service tech.
Never run with scissors.
I'm sure fellow owners will verify that your 79 O'day 28 is not cored. The Hawkeye's inhull transducer did not work in my O'day 39(admittedly a thicker hull). Read the instructions. You must first test locations in you boat (with the boat in the water). The customer service person said that the standard in hull transducer was far from a sure thing (intended for very thin hulls). The Hawkeye people are well prepared for this issue and suggested I use the existing thru hull transducer from a non functioning Raymarine unit. Worked like a charm.
Four important takeaway points:
Test in-hull transducers in the water and under sailing conditions (or at speed for power boats) before you do any cutting or installing.
Transducers are simple devices that make a click and then listen for it. I'm told there is very little that can go wrong with them . If your depth gauge is not working, it's most likely the display where the brains are. Check with the factory to see it your existing transducer will work with a low-cost in-dash readout like the Hawkeye.
Never cut/splice/ or shorten the lead to the transducer with out first consulting the factory or a service tech.
Never run with scissors.
87roadracer: Check out the other "transducer" post for more info. Centerlines post is excellent! Chief