Trailering a 1970 Cal 25 fixed keel

Jun 2, 2021
3
O'Day O'Day 28 Clarks Hill
I will be moving my late uncles Cal 25 approximately 275 miles and wanted to know how feasible it is
for me to tow it. I have plenty of experience towing trailers, my travel trailer is longer and heavier than
this boat. I know there are other considerations with a fixed keel boat, has anyone done this? What is
overall height of the boat on a trailer? I know that would very some by trailer type but would it be too
tall for overpasses on the interstate? Is it necessary to get any permits to move a boat this size?

Thanks,
Chuck Kelleher
Current Owner of a 1985 O'Day 28
 
Jan 4, 2012
1
Oday 23 Syracuse, Indiana
I co-own a Catalina 25 with a fixed keel. The draft of the boat is 4 feet. The boat weighs about 4,500 pounds. The trailer has pressure brakes (the forward momentum of the trailer compresses the brake piston when the towing vehicle slows down). The pressure brakes on the trailer make a big difference when stopping.

We've towed our boat several hundred miles with no problem. We use a Ford 150 pickup to pull the boat. The mast lays with one end on the bow pulpit and the other end on a mast crutch that is lashed to the stern pulpit. We support the mast in the middle with a crutch that sits on the mast step and compression post.

The boat and trailer are shorter in height, shorter in length, and narrower than a standard truck trailer, so we've never had to secure a permit to tow the boat. It fits under most bridges. The tallest point of the boat on its trailer is a little under 12 feet. The standard height of a truck trailer is around 13 and a half feet so most bridges have a clearance of at 14 or more feet. Off the interstate, you will want to pay close attention to the posted clearance height of bridges.

One consideration is getting the boat into the water. Most launch ramps are not steep enough to float a fixed keel boat with a 4 foot draft while the trailer is attached to the truck because the truck has to get too deep in the water before the boat floats. With the trailer positioned on the slope of the ramp, we block the wheels of the trailer, detach the trailer from the truck, and then attach a heavy duty tow strap. We didn't trust the wheel on the tongue jack so we made a kind of spare tire carrier that swings down and uses the spare tire to supports the tongue while the trailer rolls backwards. Once the strap attaches the trailer to the truck, we pull forward and remove the wheel chucks. The weight of the boat and trailer is enough that the trailer rolls down the ramp incline into water deep enough to float the boat. The truck and two strap keep the trailer from going too far or too fast. You have make sure that the ramp continues far enough. Many ramps end with a drop-off and you don't want the rear trailer tire to go over the drop-off.

Another consideration is keeping the boat on the trailer (our trailer has rollers that support the boat while underway). We use two heavy straps with ratchets to strap the boat to the trailer. The trailer has a vertical beam at the front of the trailer. The beam has a winch and a bow-nest at the end. We attach the winch cable to the bow-eye of the boat and lock the winch with plenty of tension on the cable. The beam seems strong enough to keep the boat from rolling forward or aft during standard braking and acceleration.

A final consideration is trailer brakes. Before we took our boat on the highway, we rebuilt the braking system. The original master and slave cylinders were all frozen with rust. With the new cylinders and with careful adjustment of the brakes, the boat and trailer seem to put almost no forward pressure on the truck when braking. Note that if you try to back up a steep hill or accelerate backwards sharply, the pressure may activate the brakes.
 
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KCofKC

.
Sep 6, 2010
36
Catalina 28TR MKI 317 Smithville
A couple of considerations, you can make an extension that will also put the trailer farther in the water and I feel you have more control but it does back down a bit odd as it is now double jointed but if you can back a trailer you will get it pretty quick. Also like dylaine stated brakes are important for many reasons at least on one axle of a trailer that size. But I would convert from hydraulic if that is what is on it to electric. It will be cheaper to convert than replace all of the hydraulics as well as it will last for years. I have a triple axle with brakes on all three and have over 200K miles on it and very minimal brake issues.
 
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Sep 24, 2018
2,603
O'Day 25 Chicago
Your biggest challenge will be finding an appropriate trailer for a reasonable price. Many people buy a boat and trailer and sell the boat. I'd also recommend calling boat yards as they often times have abandoned boats/trailers laying around. Most have several.
 
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Jun 2, 2021
3
O'Day O'Day 28 Clarks Hill
First thanks for all the replies, the information provided is very useful. I have found a trailer, a friend owns another 25-foot fixed keel boat and is letting me use his trailer. Before I head out I will put new tires on the trailer and repack the bearings as a precaution. I am a member of the Augusta Sailing Club and we have an extension we use to launch sailboats to avoid backing the tow vehicle into the water.
I did learn something interesting about my uncle's boat, the previous owners sailed it around the world. They evidently started in England by completely gutting the interior and rebuilt it stronger and more family friendly. There is a magazine article that describes their adventures which included going through the Panama Canal and visiting the Galapagos Islands.

Chuck
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,603
O'Day 25 Chicago
I'd feel much more comfortable having the boat hauled out by a crane, travel lift or forklift. This gives you the opportunity to properly adjust the bunks before all the weight of the boat is set on the trailer. I've experienced adjustments of an inch or so make a noticeable difference in towing. If you dunk your trailer, you can't really do any adjustments once you leave the ramp
 
Jun 2, 2021
3
O'Day O'Day 28 Clarks Hill
I'd feel much more comfortable having the boat hauled out by a crane, travel lift or forklift. This gives you the opportunity to properly adjust the bunks before all the weight of the boat is set on the trailer. I've experienced adjustments of an inch or so make a noticeable difference in towing. If you dunk your trailer, you can't really do any adjustments once you leave the ramp
I actually plan on having it lifted out, pressure washed as it is salt water before I put in the trailer. The marina my uncle used will handle all of that including setting it on the trailer. I agree with you being lifted out will allow us to adjust the trailer correctly.
Thanks