Trailer wiring

[Larry33]

I bought my 26 macgreror new in 07 with aluminum trailer and have had problems from day one with my trailer lights and wiring harness. I think I have bought about 4 or 5 new taillights sets. The lights on the wheel fenders will never work because the fender vibrates wildly and distroys the wiring. I think this is a common problem but is driving me mad.
The factory says they will sell me a new wiring harness for around $50.00.
Should I buy theirs or can I buy the same one that has the correct plug coming from the trailer harness side on line etc.? The plug has 4male + 1 female connectors but has 6 wires coming out that lead to hitch and trailer.
The trailer has breaks, I think they are compression type.
What do you advise besides never taking the boat out of the water and storing the trailer, ha,ha..
Larry

 

[shine]

I would take your trailer to a professional trailer place near where you live. It may cost a little more, but with all you have purchase in parts and frustration so far it will be cheaper in the long run.Lets fix the problem for good so you can spend your time sailing.

 

[timebandit]

Don' put the lights on the fenders.

Can you mount those lights on the frame??

I made a board that mounts the lights and it mounts to the back of the boat on the rudder mount. The lights come off before putting the boat in the water and now are about 8 feet further to the rear.

 

[oreana123]

It is possible to purchase marine grade 3 connector trailer wire. I use it. I NEVER use my trailer frame for a ground return. I installed a junction box on the riser that has the bow stop mounted on it. I use adhesive lined heat shrink on any connection. No more electrical problems (I also went to sealed LED lighting). I do not disconnect my trailer wiring when I dunk the boat, no need to.

Your fenders need a brace. A simple arm from the frame to the fender will do it. Too bad Macgregor is so cheap in these areas.....

 

[Freedom77]

I solved the problem years ago. When you put hot lights and wiring in salt water you get mucho corrosion. I made a light bar out of aluminum strut, eight feet wide, which I attach to the stern pulpit with bungees and run the wiring over the top of the boat. you can buy strut at Lowe's or a metal supply house, about 2 inch square. I also put the plug attachment inside the trunk of whatever car I happened to own. I've always had vans or station wagons. When you get to the ramp just unplug the wiring remove the bar and toss it in the car. The eight feet makes the lights legal for clearance and eliminates the need for a red light on the masthead and it also pushes the lights all the way aft which make for better visibility. You can mount the yellow fender lights on the beam stantions. With te exception of a burned out bulb or two I've never had a problem since in over thirty years. Believe me you'll never have the problem again.
Fair Winds, Old Salt....

 

[Freedom77]

P.s. Also Attach Your License Plate To The Bar...

 

[oreana123]

Notice that the light bar has its own ground. Whichever type of lighting, no exposed metal connectors, seal them up.

Harbor freight has tail light assys that are LED sealed in watertight epoxy, however the wire supplied is crap. Whatever wire connections taht are made to the lights can be sealed effectively with adhesive lined shrink tubing. This method is the most modern way to do this, if no metal is exposed below waterline, corrosion is easliy managed. No bulb sockets to corrode or become intermittant, LEDs will last longer than the trailer.

 

[JDK]

Balance the trailer tires and you won't need to brace the fenders. Then you can use the cheaper sealed bulbs without them failing due to broken filaments. Just an idea, but it works.

JDK