What do you use to winch the boat on the trailer? stainless wire, or strap? If you use the strap type, how long does it last? =I replaced my dry rotted strap w/ ss wire, but due to the close distance between the winch and bow eye, it is breaking after 1 season. I really want to move the winch farther away from the boat, but am lacking ideas. Sooooo, Do the cloth winch straps hold up?
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Dan McGuire
They Hold Up
I have used both. I have had no problem with premature failure with either. The only problem with a strap is that they try to ride off to the side and you have to keep them in line. The cables tend to unwind on the winch when there is no tension. Then when crank, they sometimes take up the slack in a jerk.
I have used both. I have had no problem with premature failure with either. The only problem with a strap is that they try to ride off to the side and you have to keep them in line. The cables tend to unwind on the winch when there is no tension. Then when crank, they sometimes take up the slack in a jerk.
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Steve Paul
Trailer extension
mrbill, which boat and trailer are you using? In my humble experience the winch on the Mac trailers are in the wrong place as you suggest. On my 26S it would be best to move the winch up and further away from the bow stop. THe bow stop is actually in the wrong place too IMHO. I think it means adding superstructure to your trailer to obtain the right angle and distance from the bow eye. I suspect the ramps in Ft. Lauderdale are shallow and you have to crank pretty hard. Would a trailer extender be of use so you could back into the water a little deeper? Steve
mrbill, which boat and trailer are you using? In my humble experience the winch on the Mac trailers are in the wrong place as you suggest. On my 26S it would be best to move the winch up and further away from the bow stop. THe bow stop is actually in the wrong place too IMHO. I think it means adding superstructure to your trailer to obtain the right angle and distance from the bow eye. I suspect the ramps in Ft. Lauderdale are shallow and you have to crank pretty hard. Would a trailer extender be of use so you could back into the water a little deeper? Steve
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Steve Paul
To answer your queston
mrbill, to answer your question, I've used both straps for years. I think I prefer the stainless cable in the long run. You don't have to worry about keeping it square on the drum. I'd guess if you get the winch and pull point right the cable will stop wearing. Have you though of liquid rollers? It's a commercial spray that might make it easier to winch up.
mrbill, to answer your question, I've used both straps for years. I think I prefer the stainless cable in the long run. You don't have to worry about keeping it square on the drum. I'd guess if you get the winch and pull point right the cable will stop wearing. Have you though of liquid rollers? It's a commercial spray that might make it easier to winch up.
IMHO, The winch is in the wrong place
also. I've used the wire and the rope, both work but like the rope best. No matter, when I pull the trailer up the ramp, and the boat has settled on to the pads, the bow ends up about 4 to 6 inches from the bow stop. It takes a run through the parking lot with a sudden stop to slide the boat up where it belongs. If anyone finds a better way or place to mount the winch please let me know.
also. I've used the wire and the rope, both work but like the rope best. No matter, when I pull the trailer up the ramp, and the boat has settled on to the pads, the bow ends up about 4 to 6 inches from the bow stop. It takes a run through the parking lot with a sudden stop to slide the boat up where it belongs. If anyone finds a better way or place to mount the winch please let me know.
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mrbill
Trl winch
I agree the winch is in the wrong place. because of the closeness of the winch to the bow eye, the last foot is wrapped really tight, and the wire is breaking at the swag point. (and the entire load in on 6" of wire) The ramps in florida are mixed, some steep some shallow (bass boats like shallow, offshore types like steep). I dont need an extension, if I pick the right ramp. I am able to crank the boat up on the trailer no problems. (I used vasoline on the bunks), and the ss wire is stout enought that I can crank the boat up tight. after I pull out up on the flat asphault, I can crank up the last 2 inches, no problem. thats why I like the wire... (I also beefed up the backing on the bow eye) the problem I see is to fix the location of the winch is not a one step change. and this trailer will not last too long in salt... so I'm planing to replace in 06-07 anyway. (its the stock 1988 trl for a 26d). I like the idea of using rope/line. I'm going to look into some strong low strech stuff. Otherwise I guess I'll replace the wire every season until I get another (galvanized) trailer.
I agree the winch is in the wrong place. because of the closeness of the winch to the bow eye, the last foot is wrapped really tight, and the wire is breaking at the swag point. (and the entire load in on 6" of wire) The ramps in florida are mixed, some steep some shallow (bass boats like shallow, offshore types like steep). I dont need an extension, if I pick the right ramp. I am able to crank the boat up on the trailer no problems. (I used vasoline on the bunks), and the ss wire is stout enought that I can crank the boat up tight. after I pull out up on the flat asphault, I can crank up the last 2 inches, no problem. thats why I like the wire... (I also beefed up the backing on the bow eye) the problem I see is to fix the location of the winch is not a one step change. and this trailer will not last too long in salt... so I'm planing to replace in 06-07 anyway. (its the stock 1988 trl for a 26d). I like the idea of using rope/line. I'm going to look into some strong low strech stuff. Otherwise I guess I'll replace the wire every season until I get another (galvanized) trailer.
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Steve Paul
We sure agree
Sounds lke we agree, we can agree that you are on it too. Somethings just are what they are. Sounds like a new trailer is a good idea. I've thought about placing a roller above the stop pad and having the winch either below or where it is. I'll do some sketches and see what comes out of that. Seems everyone has this problem and we all deal with it in similar ways. But with anti-lock breaks it's hard to do the parking lot slide. Steve
Sounds lke we agree, we can agree that you are on it too. Somethings just are what they are. Sounds like a new trailer is a good idea. I've thought about placing a roller above the stop pad and having the winch either below or where it is. I'll do some sketches and see what comes out of that. Seems everyone has this problem and we all deal with it in similar ways. But with anti-lock breaks it's hard to do the parking lot slide. Steve
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RichardL
Liquid Rollers and 2 winches!
I can definitely recommend "Liquid Rollers", which is mentioned earlier in this thread. I had a terrible time trying to get my bow into the stop, and in fact most times it was a couple of inches away from the stop as I just couldn't winch it up any further and with the ABS on my Jeep, the MacGregor "bump" was basically impossible. The last time out I sprayed the bunks with "Liquid Rollers" and when getting the boat back on the trailer, I was able to haul it up to within about 3 inches of the stop, by just pulling on a rope attached to the bow cleat. I have also mounted a second winch on top of the ladder on the front of the trailer, and when back at the staging area, using the two winches, one pulling up and one pulling down, I was easily able to pull the boat up those last few inches and get the bow to fit snugly into the bow stop. The second winch I have is a 12 volt electric winch, but I am sure it would work just as easily with a manual one. The electric winch uses a cable and the original winch has a strap, and they both work equally well, but in the back of my mind I am always thinking about the cable snapping, so I stand well clear of it when it is under tension.
I can definitely recommend "Liquid Rollers", which is mentioned earlier in this thread. I had a terrible time trying to get my bow into the stop, and in fact most times it was a couple of inches away from the stop as I just couldn't winch it up any further and with the ABS on my Jeep, the MacGregor "bump" was basically impossible. The last time out I sprayed the bunks with "Liquid Rollers" and when getting the boat back on the trailer, I was able to haul it up to within about 3 inches of the stop, by just pulling on a rope attached to the bow cleat. I have also mounted a second winch on top of the ladder on the front of the trailer, and when back at the staging area, using the two winches, one pulling up and one pulling down, I was easily able to pull the boat up those last few inches and get the bow to fit snugly into the bow stop. The second winch I have is a 12 volt electric winch, but I am sure it would work just as easily with a manual one. The electric winch uses a cable and the original winch has a strap, and they both work equally well, but in the back of my mind I am always thinking about the cable snapping, so I stand well clear of it when it is under tension.
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Steve Paul
Great Idea Richard
Great idea Richard. Would a snatch block or pulley on the ladder do as well? You could move the cable into the block for that upward pull. Then drop the cable out when you're on level ground and tighten up for the ride home. Just thinking cheap. Steve
Great idea Richard. Would a snatch block or pulley on the ladder do as well? You could move the cable into the block for that upward pull. Then drop the cable out when you're on level ground and tighten up for the ride home. Just thinking cheap. Steve
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Marshall
Getting Macs up on the trailer. Blow the ballast.
I moved my winch around to the back side of the upright brace it was on. Now the strap goes up over the V that the bow sits in. So it pulls up a little, rather than down. I always put a strap around the front of the boat to hold it on to the trailer anyway. I've read a lot from the MacGregor forums that caution against relying on just the trailer winch to hold your boat on the trailer. But for getting the water-ballasted boats up on the trailer high, nothing helped as much as blowing-out the ballast before you ever put it up on the trailer.
I moved my winch around to the back side of the upright brace it was on. Now the strap goes up over the V that the bow sits in. So it pulls up a little, rather than down. I always put a strap around the front of the boat to hold it on to the trailer anyway. I've read a lot from the MacGregor forums that caution against relying on just the trailer winch to hold your boat on the trailer. But for getting the water-ballasted boats up on the trailer high, nothing helped as much as blowing-out the ballast before you ever put it up on the trailer.
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Marty26d
Getting the boat on ther trailer..the easy way
Here's the easy (MHO) way.. First..build or buy a guide-on rail system..Mine is two vertical supports on each side of the trailer with carpeted 2 x4's between Second.. mount a ring bolt on the top of the winch post and run a line from the bow eye through the ring with/without a single pulley and back to the cockpit ( I use 100ft) this will allow you to pull/guide the bow right in. Third..mount a 6 inch roller where the wood crash bar is on the trailer Fourth..and probably the most important..go buy a 12volt low pressure high volume inflator pump ..Coleman.. and a steel tire valve-stem from your tire store.mount it about two inches from the blow hole in the ballast tank.. When you are ready to put the boat on the trailer.open the ballast valve,hook up the pump to the valve stem and turn it on..this will pump your ballast tank dry while you putter about doing what else you need to do. Fifth..In order to explain what all the bubbles are that are comming out from under your boat ( much like a sub surfacing) make up some story about pumping out your holding tank..this will move everbody away from your boat. Sixth..pull on the bow eye pully rope and smile at everbody as you slide onto the trailer OH by the way..once you have the bow up snug to the V run a short length of chain from the winch tower to the bow eye via a shackle..this will prevent the backslide that would previously require the Mac Bump maneuver. Great sailing Marty26d
Here's the easy (MHO) way.. First..build or buy a guide-on rail system..Mine is two vertical supports on each side of the trailer with carpeted 2 x4's between Second.. mount a ring bolt on the top of the winch post and run a line from the bow eye through the ring with/without a single pulley and back to the cockpit ( I use 100ft) this will allow you to pull/guide the bow right in. Third..mount a 6 inch roller where the wood crash bar is on the trailer Fourth..and probably the most important..go buy a 12volt low pressure high volume inflator pump ..Coleman.. and a steel tire valve-stem from your tire store.mount it about two inches from the blow hole in the ballast tank.. When you are ready to put the boat on the trailer.open the ballast valve,hook up the pump to the valve stem and turn it on..this will pump your ballast tank dry while you putter about doing what else you need to do. Fifth..In order to explain what all the bubbles are that are comming out from under your boat ( much like a sub surfacing) make up some story about pumping out your holding tank..this will move everbody away from your boat. Sixth..pull on the bow eye pully rope and smile at everbody as you slide onto the trailer OH by the way..once you have the bow up snug to the V run a short length of chain from the winch tower to the bow eye via a shackle..this will prevent the backslide that would previously require the Mac Bump maneuver. Great sailing Marty26d
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RichardL
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