I have a problem getting the bow of my H26 to seat properly in the retainer at the front of the trailer. I winch the boat all the way to the bow retainer, but when the boat is pulled out of the water, the bow backs off about two to three inches. This causes a problem with weight distribution on the trailer. I have been tying the bow down to the trailer frame, and this seems to help a little. The boat still backs off when it is pulled from the water. Has anyone else experienced this problem? What have you done about it? I would appreciate a response. Thanks. Don Barber S/V Third Degree
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Try adjusting the trailer bunks
I had the same problem with my 18.5. Try raising the rear of the trailer bunks and/or lowering the front of the bunks.
I had the same problem with my 18.5. Try raising the rear of the trailer bunks and/or lowering the front of the bunks.
Old Design Trailer
Don, My 1996 H26 does the same thing. I noticed that on the new H260 trailers there is a "V" roller midway between the bunks boards and winch which supports the boat very well while loading. I'm refitting my trailer now because it sure has been a pain. S/V "Festivity"
Don, My 1996 H26 does the same thing. I noticed that on the new H260 trailers there is a "V" roller midway between the bunks boards and winch which supports the boat very well while loading. I'm refitting my trailer now because it sure has been a pain. S/V "Festivity"
boat hitting stop ,
It happens to almost everyone,there have been some serious discussions, check archives, one guy backed his boat into a tree to get it on , here is what I do for what it is worth, once out of water and centered, start across parking lot and hit brakes several times, this has been refered to as the mac gregor stomp , good luck Mike
It happens to almost everyone,there have been some serious discussions, check archives, one guy backed his boat into a tree to get it on , here is what I do for what it is worth, once out of water and centered, start across parking lot and hit brakes several times, this has been refered to as the mac gregor stomp , good luck Mike
Soap and Stomp
I have the same trouble with my 23.5 I apply dish soap to the bunks when I retrieve the boat to help it slide and if not enough I give the brakes a chance to finish the job. Doing either of these while facing down hill helps considerably.
I have the same trouble with my 23.5 I apply dish soap to the bunks when I retrieve the boat to help it slide and if not enough I give the brakes a chance to finish the job. Doing either of these while facing down hill helps considerably.
Has anyone tried teflon bunk board slides?
I have not tried these butI have seen them in the Overton catalogue and have considered purchase. I have almost pulled the bow eye out of my 23.5 attempting to get the bow at the "v rest". I have also tried Rick's soap and stomp method . . .antilock breaks make this very difficult . . .?
I have not tried these butI have seen them in the Overton catalogue and have considered purchase. I have almost pulled the bow eye out of my 23.5 attempting to get the bow at the "v rest". I have also tried Rick's soap and stomp method . . .antilock breaks make this very difficult . . .?
Interesting approach
There was an interesting solution to this problem in Herb Payson's column in this month's Sail magazine. Someone had install an adjustable bow stop on there trailer. Snugged the boat up, pulled up the ramp (causing the boat to settle) then adjusted the stop to be snug with the boat.
There was an interesting solution to this problem in Herb Payson's column in this month's Sail magazine. Someone had install an adjustable bow stop on there trailer. Snugged the boat up, pulled up the ramp (causing the boat to settle) then adjusted the stop to be snug with the boat.
I had a similar prolem with my 23.5. The boat would shift back enough to cause the trailer to be unbalanced. My soloution was to move the front bracket, the one with the rubber "V" as far forward as possible. This means that the trailer is balanced even if the boat shifts to the rear when hauled from the water. I snug the front strap when I put the boat on the trailer and check again after I get to the top of the ramp. After I have driven a few miles I check again and then I can usually make the boat fast to the rubber "V".
Overton bunk slides
I installed them on my H260 last year. They work!! I only have them halfway from the bow to middle of the bunks, since this is were most of the weight is when winching onto the trailer. I spaced two side by side eight to the bunk board. I'll take a picture of it when I launch this weekend. Even with the boat on the flat, I can still winch those last three inches if needed. Jim S/V Java
I installed them on my H260 last year. They work!! I only have them halfway from the bow to middle of the bunks, since this is were most of the weight is when winching onto the trailer. I spaced two side by side eight to the bunk board. I'll take a picture of it when I launch this weekend. Even with the boat on the flat, I can still winch those last three inches if needed. Jim S/V Java
Ramp steepness
I have this problem when loading at a steep ramp. By steep, I mean the way most ramps are built – for small power boats. On a ramp of less slope, no problem. Don’t know if you have a choice of ramps, but if so you might give it a try. It does put your vehicle out further in the water however.
I have this problem when loading at a steep ramp. By steep, I mean the way most ramps are built – for small power boats. On a ramp of less slope, no problem. Don’t know if you have a choice of ramps, but if so you might give it a try. It does put your vehicle out further in the water however.
Use the MacGregor Stomp
We have a MacGregor 26 classic and for nine years always slam on the brakes, going downhill before leaving the parking lot. Then get out and winch it up. I never new the name of the technique until I read Mike's reply. Be careful not to do it too hard or you will bend the bow support. Another technique is to stop and crank the winch tight every mile, and the boat will walk forward, and be snug after three trys.
We have a MacGregor 26 classic and for nine years always slam on the brakes, going downhill before leaving the parking lot. Then get out and winch it up. I never new the name of the technique until I read Mike's reply. Be careful not to do it too hard or you will bend the bow support. Another technique is to stop and crank the winch tight every mile, and the boat will walk forward, and be snug after three trys.
Moving crank assy. forward not possible..
on my 95 hunter trailer for the H26 but sounded like the best idea for balance. I think I'll try the 3 time stop and crank method. Slamming on the brakes, especally with late model large disc style is asking a hell of a lot out of your trailer hitch. After 35 years of building and rebuilding a lot of them I assure you that many are very fragile items installed for purposes much lighter that hauling a H26. Ray
on my 95 hunter trailer for the H26 but sounded like the best idea for balance. I think I'll try the 3 time stop and crank method. Slamming on the brakes, especally with late model large disc style is asking a hell of a lot out of your trailer hitch. After 35 years of building and rebuilding a lot of them I assure you that many are very fragile items installed for purposes much lighter that hauling a H26. Ray
If It Cannot HandleThat...
If your hitch or your brakes cannot handle a sudden stop at 5 MPH I for one do not want to be on the road with you. I would much rather find out at 5 MPH than at 30 or even 60. I also would not want my boat shifting around forward or back when I do have to make that sudden stop. So always bring the bow right into the chock and do not rely on the strap to hold it there. Always put a chain or a cable between the bow eye and the trailer.
If your hitch or your brakes cannot handle a sudden stop at 5 MPH I for one do not want to be on the road with you. I would much rather find out at 5 MPH than at 30 or even 60. I also would not want my boat shifting around forward or back when I do have to make that sudden stop. So always bring the bow right into the chock and do not rely on the strap to hold it there. Always put a chain or a cable between the bow eye and the trailer.
Thanks, guys! Great discussion.
Thank you all for responding to my post. A lot of great ideas were expressed. The "McGregor Stomp" sounds like some Keltic dance, and I think I might try it with my H26 if the three mile walk, stop and tighten method doesn't work. This forum has given me so much good information over the past several months. Thanks again. Don Barber S/V Third Degree
Thank you all for responding to my post. A lot of great ideas were expressed. The "McGregor Stomp" sounds like some Keltic dance, and I think I might try it with my H26 if the three mile walk, stop and tighten method doesn't work. This forum has given me so much good information over the past several months. Thanks again. Don Barber S/V Third Degree
Overton's Bunk Slides on Photo Forum
From a previous post I promised to take a picture of the installation of these bunk slides. I found that placing them on the entire length caused the transom to slide back and forth, so only half way. Today getting out of the water I was only able to get the boat to within 3-4 inches of the mount. After getting up on flat ground the boat moved up without a problem. Own no stock in Overton's just a satisfied customer. BTW winds on the Chesapeake were Sat. were12-18 kts, going down wind with a reefed main only we were hitting 6.5 kts. HeeHaa! Jim S/V Java
From a previous post I promised to take a picture of the installation of these bunk slides. I found that placing them on the entire length caused the transom to slide back and forth, so only half way. Today getting out of the water I was only able to get the boat to within 3-4 inches of the mount. After getting up on flat ground the boat moved up without a problem. Own no stock in Overton's just a satisfied customer. BTW winds on the Chesapeake were Sat. were12-18 kts, going down wind with a reefed main only we were hitting 6.5 kts. HeeHaa! Jim S/V Java
Jim Seamans, GREAT SOLUTION!!
Where did you get these bunks. Web address or company name and approx cost. Thank you very much for the follow thru with pic's and idea. Ray
Where did you get these bunks. Web address or company name and approx cost. Thank you very much for the follow thru with pic's and idea. Ray
Overtons web address
Here you go www.overtons.com continue down the links to pwc->Trailer Accessories you are looking for item 31336 which are 3" wide 29.99 for 10. So it will require 2 packs if you do it the way I did. Jim
Here you go www.overtons.com continue down the links to pwc->Trailer Accessories you are looking for item 31336 which are 3" wide 29.99 for 10. So it will require 2 packs if you do it the way I did. Jim
Another Solution
I had the same problem last year with my '94 H26. I trailered it every time I sailed. I discovered that after pulling the boat out of the water far enough to drain the water ballast, sealing up the water ballast tank, backing it partway into the water again before cranking on the trailer winch some more solved the problem. Sometimes it took two trys back and forth into the water to position the boat properly on the trailer so that the bow stayed up against the V stop. A little extra time on the ramp, but it works. Thank goodness this year I will have a slip.
I had the same problem last year with my '94 H26. I trailered it every time I sailed. I discovered that after pulling the boat out of the water far enough to drain the water ballast, sealing up the water ballast tank, backing it partway into the water again before cranking on the trailer winch some more solved the problem. Sometimes it took two trys back and forth into the water to position the boat properly on the trailer so that the bow stayed up against the V stop. A little extra time on the ramp, but it works. Thank goodness this year I will have a slip.
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