trailer loading

twodzusfittings · May 19, 2013

Look through the old threads. I found this thread which may answer your question.

http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=145373

Benny17441 · May 19, 2013

That is not a big deal and probably has to do with slippery bunks and the angle of steep of the ramp. Do not try to winch the boat forward as you may only end up in loosening the "U" bolt fixture from the hull. While the bunks are still wet just drive forward and then hit the brakes at short intervals until the boat moves forward. Then set a rear strap to prevent it from sliding back.

Dick1505 · May 19, 2013

I had a 26 for awhile. After you get up the ramp, roll forward and stomp on the breaks a couple of times. That always worked for me when done while the bottom is wet.

donavanshomes said:
I bought a Hunter 23 last fall. I have been out with it a few times this year Love this boat but for some reason have not been able to get the boat all of the way forward on the trailer V-Bow Stops. I winch it tight in the water and after I pull the trailer out of the water it is about 3 inches back for the V-Bow Stops. I have tried a couple of times not sure what I am missing.

Any help is appreciated

Donavan

http://mnsailing.blogspot.com/
http://pepintobelize.blogspot.com/

Merlin Clark · May 19, 2013

Is the winch cable or strap pull line below the bow eye when the boat is fully on the trailer? Maybe pulling the bow down instead of forward?
Should be directly inline or pulling up slightly according to trailer manufacturers.

peptobysmol · May 19, 2013

I've read that putting some dish soap on the bunks prior to loading allows for better trailer "bumping" of the boat forward when hitting the breaks.

MABell · Jun 10, 2013

Is the H23 a water ballist? I pull my H26 out just a couple of feet, drain the ballast tank, reseal the drain and put it back in the water. Then float it back on the trialer. That seems to do the trick.

Crazy Dave Condon · Jun 13, 2013

Donovan;

Benny gave you some good advice. For those, I recognize the winch stand as the trailer was manufactured by KWS or Ken's Welding long gone many years ago. Generally, everything was welded in place, therefore, it would be difficult to raise the bow guides but from the picture if I am see correctly, everything is in proper alignment.

Remember when the boat is floating, it is horizontal and the trailer is at an angle. You will get it up most of the way but as you pull the boat out, it becomes horizontal with the horizontal position of the trailer and the bow will be close but not all the way. You can add items on the bunk boards to make the boat move forward easier but the best way is to winch and then brake, winch again and brake again until the bow rests in the proper position with the winch stand. Make sure of no overhead obstruction to include wires. Do the braking on flat or downhill surfaces.

Also make sure if you have brakes that they work. With the center of gravity high on the trailer the boat will have a tendancy to sway the trailer more which is why the brakes is an important item always to be servacable. I hope this helps you. Also, place as much gear in the V berth vs. the rear.

If you do not have brakes on the trailer as that was optional, should the trailer begin to sway, accelerate a little to stop the swaying and then brake. Never go over 55 mph.

crazy dave condon

Brian M H23 · Jun 13, 2013

I worked at this issue long ago; my best solution was to use a come-along from the tounge of the trailer, around the top of the keel and back to the tounge.

Using a large-drop hitch receiver for retrieval helps a bit, too - makes the trailer more "level"

To modify the winch post, I never quite figured it out. The pivot for the bow rest is in the wrong place though, and I know to work correctly it would be have to be below the rubber pads (not in between them)

Crazy Dave Condon · Jun 19, 2013

Brian;

I repaired several bows over the years with folks using a come a long attaché to the trailer winch stand direct to the bow eye. The bow eye ripped out. I urge anyone to reconsider.

Brian M H23 · Jun 20, 2013

Hi Dave!
I ran my the strap around the keel, not the bow eye.
Curious, though. On the 23, does the bow eye U-bolt anchor the forestay chainplate? it seems they pass through one another.

Deucer · Jun 20, 2013

I use a secondary chain on my 260. Once I get it snugged up in the water with the winch, I hook the chain to the trailer post and the U-bolt. Doesn't solve the problem completely, but keeps the wrappings on the winch from getting pulled real tight.

Crazy Dave Condon · Jun 21, 2013

Brian;

The bow eye is separate from the chain plate and usually has a backing plate inside to distribute the load accessible by removing the front panel in the V berth. I have seen people use a winch strap and even cable/chain and over time the keel is separated from the hull or the back side warped. I strongly urge that you do not do this.

Deucer, Every boat on a trailer is attached to the winch stand via cable or winch strap. What you are doing is adding what I call a safety chain which should be on all trailers in the event that a strap or that cable should break. I have had that happen in the past on several occasions and was glad that the safety chain was on. One suggestion on that safety chain or safety chains on the tongue of the trailer attached to the tow vehicle is to turn them to shorten the length in case the winch strap should break or the trailer become detached from the tow vehicle.

Also folks, always tie the trailer winch handle because sometimes a bump can cause the strap to become loose as the locking mechanism gave loose on the winch. In addition to keep the rear tie down strap from flapping in the wind and against any boat, simply put a twist in it so the wind will not catch it to keep from flapping. Ok, I have said enough and will stop flapping my jawls. I had to throw a zinger in.

crazy dave condon

Deucer · Jun 24, 2013

Crazy Dave,

I use two large tie downs to keep the boat on the trailer, so even if the winch gave way, the boat wouldn't go anywhere. I've found the "safety chain" keeps the backward movement of the boat coming out of the loading dock down to a couple of inches. Hadn't thought of it as a "safety chain," but I feel even better about doing it, now.

Paladin27 · Jun 26, 2013

I have had some trouble with this too. One thing that was not obvious to me, but probably is to everybody else on here... the arm on the trailer under the bow can move and be adjusted. On my trailer, it had slide all the way back, so when the trailer was backed down the ramp, the angle of the trailer was such that the arm was hitting the V under the bow much further back than it should have and stopping me from bringing the boat further forward, it left about a 3 to 6" gap and it took us about 20 minutes to figure out that the arm moved, once we slid it all the way forward, the bow as able to come right up against the front pads, and then after we pulled the trailer and boat out, slide it back against the bow.

Another issue we had was just getting the trailer deep enough on the launch. The boat needs to float all the way up to the front pads, if the keel hits the trailer before the bow is against the pads, it doesn't really slide, and as mentioned previously, winching on it will probably just break the bow eye. So make sure the trailer is good an deep, extend the tongue ALL the way out.

Brian M H23 · Jun 27, 2013

Agreed. I know i mentioned it before, but I'll do it again --> buy a huge drop receiver to use for launching!!!
Getting the front of the trailer down an extra 4" is worth backing up roughly 2 more feet

Erieau · Jun 27, 2013

I get a fat buddy to sit on the transom while I'm winching the boat onto the trailer. It makes quite a difference, as the boat more closely matches the downward angle of the trailer, and the bow stop no longer "pulls away" from the bow as the trailer comes level.

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