Trailer Loading a h26

[Mergatroid]

Yesterday, we loaded the boat for the first time. Seems to have the same problem my MacGregor had, bow will not stay snug to the bow stop. I cranked the wench tight but when the boat was pulled from the water, it rocked back and ended up 5 inches from the stop. I have read the archives regarding this topic and found most h26 owners have the same problem, is there a solution?Regards

 

[gmh]

Double Dunk

We do the Double Dunk. Load the boat, pull up the ramp and drain the ballast tank. You then close the tank and refloat the boat and crank the winch. It is much lighter and will stay snug as you pull up the ramp the second time.

 

[VT Fitz]

Great idea, but...

G, that's a great idea. However, there are some ramps where it's hard enough to get one bite at the apple, never mind two. Backing down again while there's a line of trailers in front of you is grounds for justifiable homocide in some jurisdictions!

 

[VT Fitz]

Equalizer Question

George, does the equalizer have variable height adjustment?

 

[Benny]

Is it really a problem?

A sailboat with its curved hull is not meant to slide over the bunks. It should be floated on into position. Depending on the angle of steepness of the ramp you may end up with the bow a little higher or lower or with a gap of separation in relation to the bow stop. The boat will mainly stay on the bunks held by gravity and friction. The straps are intended to hold boat and trailer together in case of hitting a large bump on the road or in case of an accident. To stop the bow from rocking a single strap from the bow ring to the tongue rail will suffice. Soaping the bunks may cause a problem with undue sliding and weight shifting during trailering. The trailer bow stop and winch are there to help you bring the boat in and position it over the trailer and also to prevent the boat from sliding forward in case of a panic stop or impact; it is not meant to hold the boat during normal trailering. Use a bow strap for that.

 

[Mergatroid]

Benny may have it. Thanks for the input.

We have done most of the less intrusive options. Am well acquainted with the "double dunk", agree with George, not always easy or proper. The "MacGregor Stomp" is also in our bag of tricks. Does not always work. Over a long road trip, I often find the boat has come forward.Hull shape and gravity do most of the work, straps on the bow and transom are extra, but not the bulk of the function.Long and short, I won't worry about it too much in the future.

 

[Rick Webb]

Up Against the Stop Makes a BIG Difference

The trailer flexes much less when the bow is in the chock. If you are traveling very far it is worth the effort to get it all the way forward. I find that cinching the winch strap tight and pushing the boat forward a couple of times I can move it all the way up to the stop. I soap my bunks the soap actually makes the boat stick some until it gets wet. I did the stomp technique and it works well but where we are now is a gravel lot and it does not work so well there.

 

[VT Fitz]

Thanks, George

That's what I meant, George: how far the hitch rises from the ground. Depending on where your hitch/square stock hole originates, altitude-wise, you'd need to adjust the height of the hitch to keep the trailer level.Thx!~ Kevin

 

[Corky]

loading H26

I have owned a MacGregor 26 and now a Hunter 260. This pull back is a problem for both. What I have done to solve this is to put an attachment point lower down on the trailer and use a chain and turnbuckle to secure the boat while in the water up to the stop on the trailer. The strap is just to flexible. This rigid set up has worked well. My boats do not slide back. You must use a heavy turnbuckle, like really heavy. When you unload, put the boat in the water, unscrew the turn buckle and motor off. It has worked well. The only problem was when I used a light weight turnbuckle and it broke on pulling out. I can get you a pic when I load out this next weekend if you need it.ct