I have been considering a trailer hitch extension to launch my Cal 21 and lo and behold Steve fm St Louis apparently has done it. I was thinking of going 8', not 12', so it would fit in my pickup truck bed. I moor my boat off a friends cottage at a decent size lake with no public access and the launch site is a good drainage ditch with a spray painted sign, "4-wheel drive only". Probably put up by the guy next door! Launching is no problem-retrieving another story. A second vehicle and a snatch strap have always gotten it done- but on the last day I'm sailing 'til dark and it's a hassle. Ridiculous to spend more om 4-W drive than I did on the boat for a couple of times a year. Need feedback before I buy the 2" sq. tube stock. If this works, I'll be sailing on Thanksgiving!
Trailer hitch extension extension
- Thread starter Guy D
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we used to
tie a rope to the trailor and push it into the water. we would tie the other end to the car and pull it out.. we had a San Jaun 21....
tie a rope to the trailor and push it into the water. we would tie the other end to the car and pull it out.. we had a San Jaun 21....
My old boat had an extension
My old boat, a Mirage 5.5 had a home made trailer extension. It was about 12 feet long and made of 2 inch round tubing that was at least 3/8 inch thick. As long as I left the trailer jack wheel down when using it, it worked well. If I did not use the trailer jack wheel to support the weight at the front of the trailer, then it would flex a lot. I used a couple of long bolts to pin the thing to the trailer frame under the boat for transporting it. I just drilled through the tubing and the trailer rail, inserted the bolts, spun a couple of wing nuts on, and it was good to tranport. The only thing that would have made this all work better is a rubber wheel on the trailer jack instead of a hard plastic one. It did cause some wear and tear on the wheel. The way it attached to the trailer was a slightly larger diameter piece of round tubing about 12 inches long welded directly to the side of the trailer tongue. The extension slide inside this piece and then a pin went through drilled holes to secure it in place. That made for easy removal of the extension and a strong connection.
My old boat, a Mirage 5.5 had a home made trailer extension. It was about 12 feet long and made of 2 inch round tubing that was at least 3/8 inch thick. As long as I left the trailer jack wheel down when using it, it worked well. If I did not use the trailer jack wheel to support the weight at the front of the trailer, then it would flex a lot. I used a couple of long bolts to pin the thing to the trailer frame under the boat for transporting it. I just drilled through the tubing and the trailer rail, inserted the bolts, spun a couple of wing nuts on, and it was good to tranport. The only thing that would have made this all work better is a rubber wheel on the trailer jack instead of a hard plastic one. It did cause some wear and tear on the wheel. The way it attached to the trailer was a slightly larger diameter piece of round tubing about 12 inches long welded directly to the side of the trailer tongue. The extension slide inside this piece and then a pin went through drilled holes to secure it in place. That made for easy removal of the extension and a strong connection.
Both ways
I used to use a rope to ease my old boat and trailer down the ramp - it worked fine, as long as everything was lined up OK. Make sure the trailer wheels are chocked and the rope is tied to the vehicle before you unhitch. Same deal coming back out - make the rope long enough so the vehicle has good traction. If the trailer doesn't have much tongue weight it might get tippy coming up the ramp - you might want to pull the motor off first. With the rig I have now I made an extension from a piece of pressure treated wood. My buddies all told me it wouldn't take the strain, but it has done fine so far. I line everything up before using it, so there are no sideways forces.
I used to use a rope to ease my old boat and trailer down the ramp - it worked fine, as long as everything was lined up OK. Make sure the trailer wheels are chocked and the rope is tied to the vehicle before you unhitch. Same deal coming back out - make the rope long enough so the vehicle has good traction. If the trailer doesn't have much tongue weight it might get tippy coming up the ramp - you might want to pull the motor off first. With the rig I have now I made an extension from a piece of pressure treated wood. My buddies all told me it wouldn't take the strain, but it has done fine so far. I line everything up before using it, so there are no sideways forces.
Straps
I launch and retrieve with 50' of nylon strap rated at 6,000lbs. You can tug on the strap to "steer" the trailer in correctly if needed. In my opinion the strap is better than a tongue extension because there is no doubt you can get the trailer out far enough. Plus, you can keep the vehicle far from the muck at waters edge.
I launch and retrieve with 50' of nylon strap rated at 6,000lbs. You can tug on the strap to "steer" the trailer in correctly if needed. In my opinion the strap is better than a tongue extension because there is no doubt you can get the trailer out far enough. Plus, you can keep the vehicle far from the muck at waters edge.
exension
I built a trailer extension on my trailer that works like a million bucks! I copied exactly the extension made on the Wild Hair and give full credit to those fine sailers! I have no pictures of my extension but here is a link to the Wild Hair that shows just what to do!
I built a trailer extension on my trailer that works like a million bucks! I copied exactly the extension made on the Wild Hair and give full credit to those fine sailers! I have no pictures of my extension but here is a link to the Wild Hair that shows just what to do!
the right way to extend a trailer
make a square slip tube, the same size as the one on your hitch on your truck. the tube needs to be smooth (no weld) on the inside this is very important contact your local steel supply ,they'll know what your looking for . make it reach the first crossmember in the trailer. this is where you cut the tongue off and replace it with this tube make sure its welded in by a compitant welder. the smaller tube can be made what ever length you want . you can drill a hole through the tube for a pin or bolt(you can use the dimensions from your reciever hitch this will be ample for any size boat you can put on a trailer)you also need to drill a second hole in the inner tube about 12 to 14 inches from the other end for full extension. the tongue san be bolted or welded on the end of the inner tube . this gives you the strongest permanent extendable trailer that looks like it was done from the factory and best of all you dont have to unhook your truck to extend or retract it and if you use a spring loaded pin you can do it by yourself from the folks at P.W.T.Engineering
make a square slip tube, the same size as the one on your hitch on your truck. the tube needs to be smooth (no weld) on the inside this is very important contact your local steel supply ,they'll know what your looking for . make it reach the first crossmember in the trailer. this is where you cut the tongue off and replace it with this tube make sure its welded in by a compitant welder. the smaller tube can be made what ever length you want . you can drill a hole through the tube for a pin or bolt(you can use the dimensions from your reciever hitch this will be ample for any size boat you can put on a trailer)you also need to drill a second hole in the inner tube about 12 to 14 inches from the other end for full extension. the tongue san be bolted or welded on the end of the inner tube . this gives you the strongest permanent extendable trailer that looks like it was done from the factory and best of all you dont have to unhook your truck to extend or retract it and if you use a spring loaded pin you can do it by yourself from the folks at P.W.T.Engineering
Trailer extension
Thanks for the link, Bob. Looks like abetter idea than extending out of my Reese hitch, if alittle more work. It would pivot the trailer at the truck, whereas my idea would pivot at the end of the extension, at the trailer. Rubbing on ground might be an issue, and where I'm going to use this I don't think a wheel would help as it's all wet clay, and would just dig in. Wild Hair idea looks like the strongest option, too. I'm going to be pulling this boat in November, in Michigan, by myself of course, so I'm indulging in some rare forethought! Sail it like you 'stole it! Guy.
Thanks for the link, Bob. Looks like abetter idea than extending out of my Reese hitch, if alittle more work. It would pivot the trailer at the truck, whereas my idea would pivot at the end of the extension, at the trailer. Rubbing on ground might be an issue, and where I'm going to use this I don't think a wheel would help as it's all wet clay, and would just dig in. Wild Hair idea looks like the strongest option, too. I'm going to be pulling this boat in November, in Michigan, by myself of course, so I'm indulging in some rare forethought! Sail it like you 'stole it! Guy.
Length does matter
Great ideas! Bob B's does look stronger than a hinged version. sand sailer's idea leaves me a little cold. Not because he mentioned he's an engineer- oh, alright he's a snipe and I'm a deck ape.(20 years at sea, merch mar and old attitudes die hard). The ignring is fine, but it would need either nylon slides, ala backhoe extendable booms, or a ton of zerk fittings. Since the extension would be housed most of the time, it would be susesptible to setting up in the sq. tube. Anyone that has left their hitch in for over a year, in Michigan, knows what that is like. By the way, the approved method for removal does not involve a telephine pole. Telephone poles are too weak and when they come down someone always gets your plate. Use the same chain you were going to put around the pole around a large tree. Junk 2x4's around the base will minimize trunk damage. Wear your seatbelt. Once you get it moving, don't pound it back in. It will come out just as hard as if you never moved it. When out, wire wheel it, and coat it with Marfax or axle grease liberally each time you use it. Do not use Neverseize! Neverseize cakes up in any weather and becomes are hard paste. I first learned this in Paranaqua, Brazil where I was delayed sailing 4 hours by a set up pin on the container crane. A pin that got moved every day, too. Expensive lesson (about $10000), even tho manf. recc. Neverseize. The other problem I foresee is that if you happen to bend your extension, while extended, how are you going to slide it back in and tow your boat home? If you make the channel in channel loose enough to keep from setting up with rust/grime, its going to be pretty sloppy and your'e going to have alot of banging around of your trailer going down the road and alot of shock loading going to the ball. I'm willing to be persuaded, but it looks "over-engineered" to me.
Great ideas! Bob B's does look stronger than a hinged version. sand sailer's idea leaves me a little cold. Not because he mentioned he's an engineer- oh, alright he's a snipe and I'm a deck ape.(20 years at sea, merch mar and old attitudes die hard). The ignring is fine, but it would need either nylon slides, ala backhoe extendable booms, or a ton of zerk fittings. Since the extension would be housed most of the time, it would be susesptible to setting up in the sq. tube. Anyone that has left their hitch in for over a year, in Michigan, knows what that is like. By the way, the approved method for removal does not involve a telephine pole. Telephone poles are too weak and when they come down someone always gets your plate. Use the same chain you were going to put around the pole around a large tree. Junk 2x4's around the base will minimize trunk damage. Wear your seatbelt. Once you get it moving, don't pound it back in. It will come out just as hard as if you never moved it. When out, wire wheel it, and coat it with Marfax or axle grease liberally each time you use it. Do not use Neverseize! Neverseize cakes up in any weather and becomes are hard paste. I first learned this in Paranaqua, Brazil where I was delayed sailing 4 hours by a set up pin on the container crane. A pin that got moved every day, too. Expensive lesson (about $10000), even tho manf. recc. Neverseize. The other problem I foresee is that if you happen to bend your extension, while extended, how are you going to slide it back in and tow your boat home? If you make the channel in channel loose enough to keep from setting up with rust/grime, its going to be pretty sloppy and your'e going to have alot of banging around of your trailer going down the road and alot of shock loading going to the ball. I'm willing to be persuaded, but it looks "over-engineered" to me.
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