I recently aquired an '87 25 MacGregor. The trailer rails needed new carpet, but before I did this I had a couple of questions. I've attached a photo to help illustrate my concerns. First, the front of the rails seem to have created a 'dimple' in the hull on either side. Is this common and is the boat designed this way. Would replacing the current rails with ones 2 feet longer be appropriate? Second, the bottom of the hull rests directly on the wooden block on the front trailer cross-member. On two boats that I owned previously the front end of the hull "v" didn't rest on the trailer. The rails supported the weight. Again, is this setup correct, or should I raise the rails to get the "v" off the trailer. I appreciate your feedback. Dan
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Doesn't sound like my trailer
Dan, Your photo is not here so I couldn't see exactly what you are talking about, but what you describe is not the way my 1989 mac is set up. Does the trailer say Macgregor on it? Maybe you have a after market trailer?
Dan, Your photo is not here so I couldn't see exactly what you are talking about, but what you describe is not the way my 1989 mac is set up. Does the trailer say Macgregor on it? Maybe you have a after market trailer?
Summer storage problem
Dan, I bought my 82 Mac from a couple in Phoenix. It has a "dimple" just like the one you describe. They said the previous owner had stored the Mac on it's trailer in the Arizona heat WITH THE KEEL FULLY RETRACTED for 2 years. When your boat is on the trailer, drop the keel all the way to the trailer so that it's weight is relieved. Just be sure to retract it again when you launch. Ol' Dave
Dan, I bought my 82 Mac from a couple in Phoenix. It has a "dimple" just like the one you describe. They said the previous owner had stored the Mac on it's trailer in the Arizona heat WITH THE KEEL FULLY RETRACTED for 2 years. When your boat is on the trailer, drop the keel all the way to the trailer so that it's weight is relieved. Just be sure to retract it again when you launch. Ol' Dave
Trailer help- 2nd round
It is a MacGregor trailer. I am reattaching the photo. Not sure why it didn't go the first time. Thanks, Guys
It is a MacGregor trailer. I am reattaching the photo. Not sure why it didn't go the first time. Thanks, Guys
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mac trailers
i havent heard of this before, but it is no secret that these trailers are lame and built with the same lack of rigour as the boats (we love) that sit on top of them. going longer may help distribute the weight, whether 2 feet will still keep contact with the hull is a question. going wider with the rails would also help. i would also look for something more resilient and cushioning than indoor-outdoor carpet. i agree with dropping the keel when on the trailer. also get bearing buddies on the wheels. get a better trailer if you have the cash. cheers
i havent heard of this before, but it is no secret that these trailers are lame and built with the same lack of rigour as the boats (we love) that sit on top of them. going longer may help distribute the weight, whether 2 feet will still keep contact with the hull is a question. going wider with the rails would also help. i would also look for something more resilient and cushioning than indoor-outdoor carpet. i agree with dropping the keel when on the trailer. also get bearing buddies on the wheels. get a better trailer if you have the cash. cheers
MacGregor Trailers
I have an '84 Mac 25, have dealt with the dimple problems, in my case at the back of the trailer. Looks like you have just the two bunks longitudinally on the trailer, like mine. The trailer design sucks. Looks like someone added height to the bunks at the front, or winched down on the bow hard. The keel needs to touch on that 2x4. Go to wider bunks, extended front and back. If you don't have dimples at the rear I am surprised, normally that is where the hull gives way. I ended up extending the bunks aft by 6 ft, triangulating square tube steel below the bunks out back AND to the front to support the hull. Also, make sure the trailer springs haven't rusted frozen, and if you replace them don't get springs that are too stiff. Meanwhile, don't forget to ballast the trailer tongue to prevent occilations on the highway. Buy a good wire welder w/ the inert gas feed, a chop saw, and a hand held grinder and get to know your steel yard. Good luck. ps: will try to get pictures out soon. John Doherty SusieD
I have an '84 Mac 25, have dealt with the dimple problems, in my case at the back of the trailer. Looks like you have just the two bunks longitudinally on the trailer, like mine. The trailer design sucks. Looks like someone added height to the bunks at the front, or winched down on the bow hard. The keel needs to touch on that 2x4. Go to wider bunks, extended front and back. If you don't have dimples at the rear I am surprised, normally that is where the hull gives way. I ended up extending the bunks aft by 6 ft, triangulating square tube steel below the bunks out back AND to the front to support the hull. Also, make sure the trailer springs haven't rusted frozen, and if you replace them don't get springs that are too stiff. Meanwhile, don't forget to ballast the trailer tongue to prevent occilations on the highway. Buy a good wire welder w/ the inert gas feed, a chop saw, and a hand held grinder and get to know your steel yard. Good luck. ps: will try to get pictures out soon. John Doherty SusieD
Mac 25 trailer mods
Photo. As promised. Everything aft of the stop lights and/or not painted black is modification by desperation. Good Luck!
Photo. As promised. Everything aft of the stop lights and/or not painted black is modification by desperation. Good Luck!
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