Trailer H26 winch and operation questions and help needed...

[abk]

Here is the Winch on the trailer and the coupler in a separate shot.
Problem1
The winch handle was lost as I drove away from the ramp and left it attached. (stupid).

Problem 2
Last season it was extremely difficult to remove the ball from the coupler.
The UPPER LEVER HANDLE in the winch photo is moveable but the bolt below it seems frozen.
I shot a photo looking up into the ball coupler also. The spring seen in this shot appears to be connected to the "frozen" bolt.
I think the upper lever handle (on the ball coupler end of the mechanism) slides up and allows the lower coupler to move upward to receive the ball?

There is a lever on the top of the assembly(it has a rusty wire through it)

Would you know what procedure to follow? How to unjam the lower bolt?
Where I can get a winch handle or make one? Is a manual available? Where to get a new winch strap?

Thanks in advance

 

[twalker H260]

Re: Trailer H26 winch and operation questions and help neede

Looks like you have an Atwood 6000 brake actuator. Manual is available here:

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/chassis/MPD 85778 SP 11.21.07.pdf

If you don't know the history of this actuator you might want to replace the whole assembly. Internal corrosion can cause the brake cylinder to become inoperable. Cost should be around 100-150 range and gives you a new brake cylinder!

If you do a google search for "Fulton replacement winch handle" and "replacement winch strap". You should get lots of hits online and possibly local that have your replacement items. You might need the model number off the winch for the correct handle.

You could also check the store here to see if they have the items for your winch (looks like a Fulton) and possibly even the brake actuator or it's parts.

 

[isaksp00]

Re: Trailer H26 winch and operation questions and help neede

I think you can get those winch handles at most any marine supply store or place that sells boats and has some supplies. I took a piece of roughly 1.5 in diam pvc pipe, about 6 inches long, and taped it to the vertical bar that supports the winch, and slide the handle into that when done.

That looks just like my receiver, which has a non-functioning surge brake (I never take it on the road and it is only driven from the storage yard to the lake and vice versa, towed by a tractor, so no brakes are needed).

The upper lever on the side is used to lock the mechanism so that surge brake does not activate while you are backing up. If yours is like mine, the cylinder in the brake inside the receiver housing is indeed shot and rusted fast. The bolt on the side below it is a hinge pin that attaches the receiver to the shaft that actuates the brake - when you brake, the trailer wants to move forward against the towing vehicle ball, the force pivots the front part of the hitch to the rear and down, and that bolt puts pressure on the brake cylinder, applying the trailer brakes. That should have nothing to do with removing the hitch from the ball (though if you drive on the road, it has everything to do with your life expectancy).

The flip lever on the top of the hitch is what releases the tongue that holds the hitch to the ball. Pull it up to release, snap down to hitch on. Check that out and lubricate if needed to get it to release off the ball.

 

[isaksp00]

Re: Trailer H26 winch and operation questions and help neede

I just noticed the question about the winch strap - also available at many marine stores or trailer supply stores. I just bought one at a small yard up in the Poconos - even they stocked it. If you do want to redo your brakes, you can buy the entire surge assembly online.

 

[Rick Webb]

I Think This is the Handle

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=5079


Replace the actuator

Much easier if you get the same one to replace what you have

 

[abk]

Re: Trailer H26 winch and operation questions and help neede

The brake cylinder may be inoperable but it doesn't matter because the brake lines that run to the wheels are shot. Thanks for your reply.

 

[abk]

Re: Trailer H26 winch and operation questions and help neede

I think you can get those winch handles at most any marine supply store or place that sells boats and has some supplies. I took a piece of roughly 1.5 in diam pvc pipe, about 6 inches long, and taped it to the vertical bar that supports the winch, and slide the handle into that when done.

That looks just like my receiver, which has a non-functioning surge brake (I never take it on the road and it is only driven from the storage yard to the lake and vice versa, towed by a tractor, so no brakes are needed).

The upper lever on the side is used to lock the mechanism so that surge brake does not activate while you are backing up. If yours is like mine, the cylinder in the brake inside the receiver housing is indeed shot and rusted fast. The bolt on the side below it is a hinge pin that attaches the receiver to the shaft that actuates the brake - when you brake, the trailer wants to move forward against the towing vehicle ball, the force pivots the front part of the hitch to the rear and down, and that bolt puts pressure on the brake cylinder, applying the trailer brakes. That should have nothing to do with removing the hitch from the ball (though if you drive on the road, it has everything to do with your life expectancy).

The flip lever on the top of the hitch is what releases the tongue that holds the hitch to the ball. Pull it up to release, snap down to hitch on. Check that out and lubricate if needed to get it to release off the ball.

Thank you very much for your help. The trailer brakes are inoperable as the brake lines have come off and the surge brakes no longer finction.

The most I ever need to travel with the boat on the trailer is about 5 miles... Would it be hard to restore the trailer brakes so that they function?

 

[Rick Webb]

Actually I Think it is This One

http://www.tohatsu.us/index.php?main_page=product_marine_info&products_id=204176

Better price here too

 

[mmsailor]

Here is the Winch on the trailer and the coupler in a separate shot.
Problem1
The winch handle was lost as I drove away from the ramp and left it attached. (stupid).

Problem 2
Last season it was extremely difficult to remove the ball from the coupler.
The UPPER LEVER HANDLE in the winch photo is moveable but the bolt below it seems frozen.
I shot a photo looking up into the ball coupler also. The spring seen in this shot appears to be connected to the "frozen" bolt.
I think the upper lever handle (on the ball coupler end of the mechanism) slides up and allows the lower coupler to move upward to receive the ball?

There is a lever on the top of the assembly(it has a rusty wire through it)

Would you know what procedure to follow? How to unjam the lower bolt?
Where I can get a winch handle or make one? Is a manual available? Where to get a new winch strap?

Thanks in advance

I was having trouble uncoupling the trailer and found that if I let the receiver attached to the trailer , unpinned the ball and pullled forward the balll and hitch would easily come apart .There is a problem with the hitch that needs to be fixed but this let me unhook the trailer . Hope this helps ,

 

[isaksp00]

Re: Trailer H26 winch and operation questions and help neede

I don't ever tow my boat, so I don't know the safety of driving 5 miles - depends on road and speed, I suppose. Crazy Dave is the expert on that.

If you are handy, I imagine you could redo the brakes - the actuator itself is not that big a deal, if you buy the whole thing (mind you, I have never actually done it - I just removed the mechanism in mine to assess it). Doing the brakes in the wheels - I don't know. I imagine buying and attaching new lines would not be tough. You do have to perform a brake bleeding task to get air out once you redo it, so i'd do some Internet research.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Re: Trailer H26 winch and operation questions and help neede

If the brake lines are shot along with the brake actuator, my suggestion if trailering, replace all because when towing, you have about 5,000 lbs behind you and not only will you wear out the brakes on the tow vehicle, it is also dangerous. So from that standpoint, bite the bullet and repair the brake system. As a dealer I refused to tow trailers with brakes not working particualy on the 26/260.

Each actuator mfg. will vary on the brake actuator to allow you to back up without engaging the brakes. Surge brakes of course. If you do get a new one, know how to engage that.

For lack of terms, if you take an actuator apart to replace the rod or fluid resivoir, there are generally two styles one for regualar brakes and the other for disc brakes. It was amazing how those items were the same in the other brakes and only cost $75 in parts.