I just pickes up a new factory trailer for my H260. I have never trailered my boat so I don't know squat. I read over the trailer manual and it said to be sure your brakes are working. I took just the trailer without the boat over a 1000 miles and beats the hell out of me if the brakes are working. How do you check to see if the brakes are working? I just bought a factory trailer for the H260 with surge brakes on all four wheels. I guess I will know when I get the boat on the trailer but there must be an easy way to see if they are working right. I have to take the boat from Dickenson on I 10 and then to 59 right through Houston and I sure want to know if it is working right. Can someone help a poor dope. Thanks for all your help on this forum. Tip
Trailer Brakes Working???
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Brake check
First thing to check: is there brake fluid in the trailer's master cylinder? On top of the coupler there is a big plastic cap. Unscrew that an look in. There is probably a way to compress the master cylinder using a screw driver. Often a slot on the side of the coupler is provided to work it. This is provided to bleed the brakes. If you can find it, then (without the trailer hooked to the tow vehicle) jack one side of the trailer up (without boat on, is easiest), spin a wheel then compress the master cylinder using a screw driver. The wheel should come to a quick stop. Fair winds and roads... Tom
First thing to check: is there brake fluid in the trailer's master cylinder? On top of the coupler there is a big plastic cap. Unscrew that an look in. There is probably a way to compress the master cylinder using a screw driver. Often a slot on the side of the coupler is provided to work it. This is provided to bleed the brakes. If you can find it, then (without the trailer hooked to the tow vehicle) jack one side of the trailer up (without boat on, is easiest), spin a wheel then compress the master cylinder using a screw driver. The wheel should come to a quick stop. Fair winds and roads... Tom
checking surge brakes
with the boat on or off the trailer, and the trailer hitched to the car, take a come-along and go from the trailer to the safety chain attatching point on the vehicle. apply tension on the comealong. this will actuate the surge barke mechanism. Try to pull forward gently, if the trailer is empty, the wheels will drag, if the trailer is loaded, you will feel the resistance of the trailer brakes. After you get used to towing your new 260 you will know the first time you apply the brakes if they are working or not.
with the boat on or off the trailer, and the trailer hitched to the car, take a come-along and go from the trailer to the safety chain attatching point on the vehicle. apply tension on the comealong. this will actuate the surge barke mechanism. Try to pull forward gently, if the trailer is empty, the wheels will drag, if the trailer is loaded, you will feel the resistance of the trailer brakes. After you get used to towing your new 260 you will know the first time you apply the brakes if they are working or not.
trailer brake question follow up
Has anyone rebuilt/replaced their surge brake head? Do to operator error (extended tongue without detaching brake line) I had to replace the brake line on my boat trailer. It also looks like I need to replace the couplings as now when I apply the brakes the fluid leaks at the couplings between the brake head and the new brake line. Has anyone had a similar experience had to rebuild their unit?
Has anyone rebuilt/replaced their surge brake head? Do to operator error (extended tongue without detaching brake line) I had to replace the brake line on my boat trailer. It also looks like I need to replace the couplings as now when I apply the brakes the fluid leaks at the couplings between the brake head and the new brake line. Has anyone had a similar experience had to rebuild their unit?
Try backing up with the boat on the trailer
Chances are the new trailer does not have a reverse solenoid and requires you to manually lock the mechanism to prevent the actuator from engaging the master cylinder and actuating the brakes. The reverse solenoid is installed directly behind the brake actuator in-line with the brake line and utilizes the voltage from your reverse lights on your tow vehicle to activate the solenoid and prevent the actuator from activating the brakes when you are backing up by cutting off the flow of brake fluid form teh master cylinder to the brakes. Your trailer wiring harness will have a five pin flat connector or a round connector. If your trailer has a four pin flat then your trailer does not have a reverse solenoid. Assuming that your trailer does NOT have a reverse solenoid and you have not engaged the lockout mechanism when you try backing up the force will cause the master cylinder to actuate the brakes and the trailer tires should lock up. If your trailer DOES have a reverse solenoid then disconnect the wireing harness from the tow vehicle and try backing up. Happy to help.
Chances are the new trailer does not have a reverse solenoid and requires you to manually lock the mechanism to prevent the actuator from engaging the master cylinder and actuating the brakes. The reverse solenoid is installed directly behind the brake actuator in-line with the brake line and utilizes the voltage from your reverse lights on your tow vehicle to activate the solenoid and prevent the actuator from activating the brakes when you are backing up by cutting off the flow of brake fluid form teh master cylinder to the brakes. Your trailer wiring harness will have a five pin flat connector or a round connector. If your trailer has a four pin flat then your trailer does not have a reverse solenoid. Assuming that your trailer does NOT have a reverse solenoid and you have not engaged the lockout mechanism when you try backing up the force will cause the master cylinder to actuate the brakes and the trailer tires should lock up. If your trailer DOES have a reverse solenoid then disconnect the wireing harness from the tow vehicle and try backing up. Happy to help.
KenKIndy1
I attempted to rebuild my Atwood brand actuator on my trailer. My master cylinder was shot so I ordered a new one. I also ordered a new filler cap for the master cylinder. Here is where the trouble began. Atwood couplers that typically come on Hunter trailers have a design flaw (IMHO). The filler cap threads directly into the actuator housing and not into the master cylinder. The filler cap assembly is plastic and poorly designed to allow water to migrate under the cap assemble and collect in the area where it threads into the housing. When I pulled off the old filler cap assembly the threads were severly corroded. So I brought the actuator to a machine shop to have it re-tapped. Well they retapped it but the threads were still kind of trashed. I knew that I could not get a good seal to prevent water from getting into the master cylinder without putting pipe dope and teflon tape and even then water still might get in because the threads were not clean and you would have to put new dope and tape every time you wanted to check the fluid level. So the bottom line is I returned the Atwood master cylinder, threw the actuator in the trash and bought a Tie-Down Engineering Model 66 brake actuator. It is a far superior design with an aluminum master cylinder and a filler cap assembly that bolts to the top of the master cylinder rather than through the actuator housing. Chek out the link. Hope this helps.
I attempted to rebuild my Atwood brand actuator on my trailer. My master cylinder was shot so I ordered a new one. I also ordered a new filler cap for the master cylinder. Here is where the trouble began. Atwood couplers that typically come on Hunter trailers have a design flaw (IMHO). The filler cap threads directly into the actuator housing and not into the master cylinder. The filler cap assembly is plastic and poorly designed to allow water to migrate under the cap assemble and collect in the area where it threads into the housing. When I pulled off the old filler cap assembly the threads were severly corroded. So I brought the actuator to a machine shop to have it re-tapped. Well they retapped it but the threads were still kind of trashed. I knew that I could not get a good seal to prevent water from getting into the master cylinder without putting pipe dope and teflon tape and even then water still might get in because the threads were not clean and you would have to put new dope and tape every time you wanted to check the fluid level. So the bottom line is I returned the Atwood master cylinder, threw the actuator in the trash and bought a Tie-Down Engineering Model 66 brake actuator. It is a far superior design with an aluminum master cylinder and a filler cap assembly that bolts to the top of the master cylinder rather than through the actuator housing. Chek out the link. Hope this helps.
Checking Surge Brakes
OK you can laugh, but to ensure the trailer breaks are working, I just slam on the car brakes when going down hill and if I see a puff of black smoke from the trailer tires I know they are working. I've always done this for all my boats. Seems reasonable to me... All this talk about brakes locking while backing confuses me. I have the stock H260 trailer and that has never happened. Tip, glad you got the trailer problem solved. Sure it cost more than you wanted it to, but you'll be happier with the result. Enjoy. Now you'll have to make sure the boat is rigged properly for trailering. Make sure you secure the mast from swaying on the crutch and use lots of bungies and straps. Any questions give a shout. Check the owners directory for contac info. Go Spurs and Cowboys!!! http://kobernus.com/H260_web/index.html
OK you can laugh, but to ensure the trailer breaks are working, I just slam on the car brakes when going down hill and if I see a puff of black smoke from the trailer tires I know they are working. I've always done this for all my boats. Seems reasonable to me... All this talk about brakes locking while backing confuses me. I have the stock H260 trailer and that has never happened. Tip, glad you got the trailer problem solved. Sure it cost more than you wanted it to, but you'll be happier with the result. Enjoy. Now you'll have to make sure the boat is rigged properly for trailering. Make sure you secure the mast from swaying on the crutch and use lots of bungies and straps. Any questions give a shout. Check the owners directory for contac info. Go Spurs and Cowboys!!! http://kobernus.com/H260_web/index.html
Reverse solenoid for disc brakes...
Disc brakes will lock up going in reverse, drum brakes are OK. The Hunter trailer probably came with drum brakes and, if so, does not need a reverse solenoid. In 2003 I replaced (on my 1999 trailer) the Atwood coupler with a Tiedown as part of a conversion from the 2 wheel drum setup provided with the trailer to a 4 wheel disc brake setup. The Tiedown equipment is much better made. Fair winds, Tom
Disc brakes will lock up going in reverse, drum brakes are OK. The Hunter trailer probably came with drum brakes and, if so, does not need a reverse solenoid. In 2003 I replaced (on my 1999 trailer) the Atwood coupler with a Tiedown as part of a conversion from the 2 wheel drum setup provided with the trailer to a 4 wheel disc brake setup. The Tiedown equipment is much better made. Fair winds, Tom
Love sailing in Corpus Cristi
You have the perfect boat for the tx cost. The swing keel is great for the thin water along the IC. Hear is a pic you might like, the marker 7 miles out of Port "A".
You have the perfect boat for the tx cost. The swing keel is great for the thin water along the IC. Hear is a pic you might like, the marker 7 miles out of Port "A".
Ups, Corpus Christi
Raising the old mast out on the T-Heads last winter. The hole two week trip was cold and fogy (second week of February). Note to new hunter owner, notice the windex is on the top of the mast before raising. You will forget to put it on a few times, we all have :{ Hoping for better weather for the trip down this year, going to try March.
Raising the old mast out on the T-Heads last winter. The hole two week trip was cold and fogy (second week of February). Note to new hunter owner, notice the windex is on the top of the mast before raising. You will forget to put it on a few times, we all have :{ Hoping for better weather for the trip down this year, going to try March.
Ups Corpus Christi
Did you remember to take that bungie off the fuller before you raised the mast all the way??? Been there...
Did you remember to take that bungie off the fuller before you raised the mast all the way??? Been there...
bungie, yep
but have I pulled the cooler up on deck before to reach it, O Yea., With the new and improver mast raising system I do better than before. If I have freinds with me I just try to send them off looking for a cold one, do better raising the mast solo.
but have I pulled the cooler up on deck before to reach it, O Yea., With the new and improver mast raising system I do better than before. If I have freinds with me I just try to send them off looking for a cold one, do better raising the mast solo.
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