I have a single axle trailer that I believe came new with my 1979 Cat 22 and it is missing the master brake cylinder. I called Trailrite and they are out of boat trailer construction. I looked at the Pacific Trailer site and dont see anything that looks like it will work. Does anyone know what brand or model of hydraulic surge brakes were used in the late 70s Trailrite trailers? _____Grant.
trailer brake question?
- Thread starter gjordan
- Start date
I believe Trail-Rite is still in business, anyway, they didn't make the actuator, it's simply an off the shelf unit, as are all of the brake components on your trailer. Assuming since you have a 70's vintage trailer, you probably have shoe brakes. Several years ago I had my brakes upgraded to disks and they changed my actuator simply because parts and labor would be about the same price as a new one. They told me the only difference between a disc and shoe brake actuator was the orifice used. Brake parts can be purchased from many trailer shops, and the internet. There are no brake parts that are Trail-Rite specific.
Here are a couple photos of my Trail-Rite trailer with the conversion to disc brakes.
Don
Here are a couple photos of my Trail-Rite trailer with the conversion to disc brakes.
Don
I talked to Trailrite yesterday and they dont do boat trailers anymore (I thought surge brakes were the same on any type) and the lady told me to contact Pacific Trailers. I looked on their web site and didnt see anything that looked like it would mount to my unit. I will go to the marina today and look around (several 22s on trailers) to get a better idea of what I am missing, and then hit the local trailer/RV place. The master cylinders that I see on the web mount different than it appears that mine would. I may end up converting to disc, but will try this first. Thanks, ______Grant.
Grant,
Interesting information about Trail-Rite. I wonder how much Catalina Yachts pulling out of California had to do with that decision. They were pretty much the exclusive trailer for C-22's for years. The new actuator will probably look different, it's the total weight of the boat and trailer, and the mounting that's the critical part. Lot's of good resources on line also. Etrailer is one that comes to mind.
Don
Interesting information about Trail-Rite. I wonder how much Catalina Yachts pulling out of California had to do with that decision. They were pretty much the exclusive trailer for C-22's for years. The new actuator will probably look different, it's the total weight of the boat and trailer, and the mounting that's the critical part. Lot's of good resources on line also. Etrailer is one that comes to mind.
Don
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Hey, Grant
If your actuator has been missing for a long time, odds are that the hydraulic lines have dirt and/or rust in them and that the slave cylinders and shoes are toast also, particularly on a trailer that old. Have you taken the wheels and drums off and inspected them?
I can vouch for etrailer.com. I purchased all the parts (incl. Demco actuator) to install a complete surge brake system on my trailer. You can read all about it, including installing a quick disconnect for the tongue extension at Do It Yourself Trailer Surge Brakes on my blog.
If your actuator has been missing for a long time, odds are that the hydraulic lines have dirt and/or rust in them and that the slave cylinders and shoes are toast also, particularly on a trailer that old. Have you taken the wheels and drums off and inspected them?
I can vouch for etrailer.com. I purchased all the parts (incl. Demco actuator) to install a complete surge brake system on my trailer. You can read all about it, including installing a quick disconnect for the tongue extension at Do It Yourself Trailer Surge Brakes on my blog.
The quick disconnect was going to be my next question. It seems to be available. I read some reviews about Etrailer and they were pretty negative so I was steering away from them, but After 3 calls to Pacific trailer and waiting a long time by the phone I just may go with Etrailer. I havent looked at your blog yet, but I am sure it will help. Yes, I am assuming new steel lines and flex and probably everything else. I will compare to a full disc kit and see what I think. Thanks for the help _____Grant.
My next project is going to be getting my trailer trustworthy. The steel surge brake connector is corroded beyond hope. I looked at CD, and they had a quick-connect brass coupler for about $50. I like to support CD, and have an order of other stuff ready to place, but that seems high for that part. So I went around my small town yesterday, and only found one boat place that did trailer work, and they agreed that the price was very high, and thought they could get the part much cheaper. They want me to either bring the trailer in (which I wanted to do anyway to have it looked over and have the brakes checked out) or at least the other end of the coupling so they could order the part from that. Living in the hills of TN, I want to have a fully functional trailer if I decide to take the boat to other places, so I think having someone look at it is a good idea. I realize they are trying to make a sale and make money by the work of the inspection, at the least, but am I right that $50 for a coupling is rather high?
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I purchased the disconnect coupler at a local trailer supply store for I believe $30'ish. It's a common trailer part, just make sure it's brass, the steel one that Trail-Rite originally installed on my trailer succumbed to the saltwater. All the hardware on the trailer is available from multiple sources, non of it with the exception of the frame is C-22 specific.
Don
Don
My problem is where I live there is no "local trailer supply store". I can easily waste $20 trying to save it! I wish there was another way to know whether the brakes were working or not. Is there some way to test? That was why I was going to let the boat shop take a look at it. I'm sure they are decent folks, but I know they don't do a lot of business so they will be trying hard to find something that I need to have done, and it will be up to me to figure out what is actual need, and what is make-work.
jdub tn, Are we talking drum brakes or disc brake set-up? Disc brakes are easy, disconnect the back-up solenoid and if you can back up the trailer loaded with a boat, they aren't working. I never messed with drum brakes except to take them off and throw them away. Guess someone has experience with them. But brakes aren't the place to be cheap, you might be money ahead driving an hour and paying a professional to advise you. verses taking someones advice on an internet forum who's never seen the actual trailer. Kind of like asking "do you guys think I have a brain tumor? I keep having headaches". Sometimes it's just better to pay a professional to give their opinion.
Don
Don
I finally found an exact replacement for the master cylinder. I talked to 4 or 5 trailer outfits and none knew what came on the 1979 vintage, but they were all wanting to sell me something that I needed to cut and re-weld to install. I finally found an old boy that said to clean the paint off of the flap (well it looks like a flap) on the forward top of the actuator and look for numbers. I could not see any numbers until I took a magnifying glass and moved a flashlight all around to see if shadows helped. Sure enough it showed a Model 6, He then knew exactly what it was. I dont remember just what he said it was, but I have the box that it came in right here. Label reads TITAN DicO Boat Trailer Master Cylinder Model 6 Actuator 1777401 CP2B11R. The return address on the box is XS Surplus, Steven Bogacik, 2953 Scenery Drive, Elizabeth, PA. 15037-9630. I dont have an email address, so you will have to try snail mail. 4 bolts and it is in without having to pay a welder/machine shop. I dont remember the exact price, but it was just a little over $100. I hope this helps. _____Grant.
JT, a simple test is to hook up the trailer without the boat and go make a few hard stops. Not enough to skid the tow car wheels, but firm stops. This does not have to be at a very high speed to see if the empty trailer will skid its wheels. If you are not sure what is happening, try it on a gravel surface. Check your fluid level first. If you dont seem to get any response out of the brakes, dont give up yet. You can buy a brake bleeding vacuem pump at Harbor Freight for about $25 and bleed the brakes. There are many Utube videos showing how to do this. The bleeder screws are very small and should always be opened with a box wrench, not an open end wrench. An even simpler test is to hook up and just try to back up. If you are on the level, the brakes should lock up. Again, if nothing happens, bleed the brakes first before turning it over to the $100/hour guys. Any vehicle that has not been used in a long time might require bleeding the air out of the system. Best of luck. _____Grant.