Trailer Brake Overhaul

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Tom Hoffman

Tom Hoffman

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Dec 25, 2009
269
American 26 & MFG Challenger 12 American 8.0, Challenger 12 Lake Pepin, Wisc.
Just thought that before I started tearing into stuff, I would plumb the collective wisdom here on the site in an effort to not screw things up from the get go. I am not very mechanically inclined.

Finally got the boat home to my place close to my shop today and am ready to start full speed ahead fix and replace as needed. One of the items that I am clueless about is the Hydraulic brake system. I have attached 2 pictures for your edification.

When I start taking this apart what am I likely to find? How does this kind of brake system work?





If you would be so kind to indulge an utter novice. I would be greatly appreciative.

Tom...:D
 
sailingdog

sailingdog

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Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
That looks like a surge brake controller. It basically works by compressing the master brake cylinder for the trailer when the tow vehicle brakes and the trailer hitch is forced back by the slowing vehicle.
 
dscribner

dscribner

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Nov 9, 2008
1,338
Pearson-O'Day 290 Portland Maine
Tom,

I installed an entirely new brake system on my trailer last year. As I looked around for replacement parts/rebuild kits, I found that often times the complete assembly was cheaper than the parts. I think this is a universal truth, like taxes and government cover-ups. Anyways, A new coupler like the one shown would probably go for about $150. I'm shooting high because I found many in the $110 range.

It is a hydraullic surge coupler. Check the mounting size (does it mount to a 3X3 tube?) and the type of brakes. I don't know why, but disk brake couplers and drum brake couplers are different.

If you need drums, make sure you get free-backing plates. This allows you to back the trailer without actuating the braking system.

Installing a whole new system is not hard and takes an afternoon. The kit cost $351 shipped. It came with everything except bolts for mounting the couple. $5 at Lowes for grade 5 bolts and castle nuts and it was a go.
 
cephius (Dave)

cephius (Dave)

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May 25, 2004
958
Hunter 260 Pepin, WI
Tom,
Check out Northern Tool & Equipment. They have everything for a trailer in stock.

There is a store in Rochester. Since my boat is now in the water, I'll be making trips to Pepin every weekend. I could run something up from Rochester for you, saving the cost of shipping.

717 Highway 14 W
Rochester, MN 55901
507-282-5559
 
dscribner

dscribner

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Nov 9, 2008
1,338
Pearson-O'Day 290 Portland Maine
I found Northern Tool to be a little on the expensive side. If you could save on shipping that would probably offset the cost though. I also noticed, after my post, that the coupler is welded to the frame. Rebuilding is probably in order, rather than replacement.
 
Sumner

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
dscribner said:
.......... I also noticed, after my post, that the coupler is welded to the frame.............
Click to expand
You could get around that with a couple cutoff discs and grinding wheels and a couple hours worth of work if you don't have a torch or plasma cutter. I went through something similar today. Not a fun job, but if it was mine I would want to put some new stuff on and not spend the time messing with the old. Once you have the old one off drill some holes and you are about done, no rebuilding. I bolted my new one on even though I have a welder. Who knows when you might have to do it again.

c ya,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

Our Mac Pages

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dscribner

dscribner

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Nov 9, 2008
1,338
Pearson-O'Day 290 Portland Maine
I'm with Sum. But check to see what you would be bolting to before you start cutting. It looks like the couple is open from below. It would be a shame to cut it off only to find that there's nothing standard sized below.

There are three kinds of people

The cup is half full people.
The cup is half empty people.
Engineers: the cup cleary exceeds design parameters by 50% allowable.
 
Sumner

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
dscribner said:
......But check to see what you would be bolting to before you start cutting. It looks like the couple is open from below............
Click to expand
It is hard to tell from those pictures what the frame is under the coupler. I would hope that it isn't held on just by those vertical welds at the back :cry:.

On the sides look to be bolt holes where I would expect to see the normal bolts and behind the holes is white, so hopefully there is frame there. To me the frame looks to almost be home-made from angle up there and not channel. I might be redoing that part of the frame at the same time. If one doesn't have the time, equipment or whatever that is something that shouldn't take a welding shop much time to do.

Also Tom, so that I'm clear on what I suggested....I'm not saying cut off the tongue right behind the present coupler, but start cutting the coupler off in pieces and grinding where it is welded down to the frame. Now if the frame was a mess up there I'd cut it off at the tongue and put on a new tongue 3 inches wide that was gusseted well into the existing frame rails with diamond shaped pieces to spread the stresses and at the same time maybe lengthen the tongue some if that would help to launch the boat. Only do this if you realize where the stresses are on the tongue and that joint and can engineer it properly. There again this would be a fairly simple job for a competent welding shop, but for sure be safe,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

Our Mac Pages

Mac Links
 
Tom Hoffman

Tom Hoffman

.
Dec 25, 2009
269
American 26 & MFG Challenger 12 American 8.0, Challenger 12 Lake Pepin, Wisc.
cephius (Dave) said:
Tom,
Check out Northern Tool & Equipment. They have everything for a trailer in stock.

There is a store in Rochester. Since my boat is now in the water, I'll be making trips to Pepin every weekend. I could run something up from Rochester for you, saving the cost of shipping.

717 Highway 14 W
Rochester, MN 55901
507-282-5559
Click to expand
Hey Dave, I was just up to Rochester last Saturday night. To bad I didn't see your post before then. They would have probably been closed. Had to meet my son at the Outback.

You running down any parts wouldn't save any money. It is 115 miles from Rochester to my house and it would cost a tank of Gas. You are more than welcome to come down if you would like. I will definitely need some help and guidence when I get to stepping the mast and setting up all the rigging. Never done that before. All my minimal sailing was done on OPB. Already set up. I can offer you gas money and good food.

Just got the boat into my yard last friday and will be starting the interior clean up and check for electrical system, water system, cooking etc. In the next few days. I am going to fix the gouges on the keel on the trailer and then try and do some bottom painting by lowering one bunk at a time while the boat is held and braced by 4X4 beams from neighboring trees. The keel is quite wide and it should rest on the base keel support board with out much effort. I have been told that these boats will rest upright on their keel at low tide if the bottom is flat. We'll see.

Here is the boat home now.

 
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