Trailer boards, Keel support length

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Jun 3, 2004
130
Seaward 24 Indianapolis
Hi Gang,

Does anyone have the length of the trailer boards (under the swing keel) for a Hunter 240 trailer? I need to replace mine before the boat goes into hebernation for the winter. The trailer of course is at the lke 2 hours away and the nearest lumber store near the boat is a 45 minute round trip.

Thanks.

Ken
 
Aug 1, 2013
61
Hunter 240 Muskegon, MI
I can try to remember to check this when I get home tonight - my 240 trailer is sitting in my driveway. Just to make sure I get what you need - you need the dimensions of the center board that the centerboard sits on? Do you need the ones that hold the side of the boat (and the weight) as well? I should note that I have a 2003 Magic Tilt that I am pretty sure came with the boat in case you have a different model.
 
Jun 3, 2004
130
Seaward 24 Indianapolis
Thanks Nola172. The bottom board length is what I need. Mine has 2 1*6 as there is a low point in the trailer frame. I think this was the standard set up for my 1998. My first Lake Michagan trip with this 240 started at the Muskegon Municipal marina.
 
Aug 1, 2013
61
Hunter 240 Muskegon, MI
Ken - My wife just measured the board on ours. It is 2" (tall), by 12" (wide), by 12'8" (long, might be an inch or so either way on this dimension). Also, glad to hear you have been out on Muskegon Lake. It is very nice for sailing and it is only 15 minutes for us from our house to the boat (maybe 7 minutes from my work), so we go out pretty often.
 
Feb 18, 2011
330
Hunter 260 Cave Run Lake, KY
Ken, I replaced my keel boards last season. On my '98 240 trailer (the older style 240 trailer with 4 bunk supports and squared-off fenders) the keel bunk boards are 8 ft. long, 3/4" thick, and about 7 3/4" wide. The 2 plywood boards form a shallow V. I covered them with gray indoor-outdoor carpet from Lowes.
 

DJN51

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Oct 26, 2009
377
Hunter 23.5 East Chicago In
Om my 23.5 1995 8 ft long 12" wide.Added keel guides as per pix .Helps center boat putting on trailer.Also added 6 in pipe for boom,mast raising gin pole Save interior damage.
 

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Jun 2, 2004
3,554
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
Instead of Plywood

I used pressure treated 1 X 6 ripped the inside ones to fit and screwed them to a pressure treated 2 X 4 at the ends right at the trailer support to keep them from sliding fore and aft. never got around to covering them and I think they will last longer without carpet. This was way cheaper than a sheet of pressure treated plywood that only half would be used and the rest would be sitting around the house.

I would not count on a standard measurement from these trailers yours may be a 1/2 wider or narrower than the next. Most lumber yards would be able to rip the boards for you and cut the ends off to your measurements.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,442
-na -NA Anywhere USA
One thing recently said that the centerboard resting on the keel tray had a lot of pressure. That being the case, the top of the centerboard will depress inward the inside top of the centerboard trunk housing. To fix this, you will need to raise the stalks or supports or the bunk boards until there is no pressure. I found that the outside stalks being cut to fit the inside and you would have to buy new longer stalks unless the stalks have additional length to take care of everything.

dave condon
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,554
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
Wanted to Mention but Forgot

Putting the 2 X 4 at the edge of the trailer support means you do not have to but screws into the support to hold the tray in place.
 
Jun 3, 2004
130
Seaward 24 Indianapolis
Hi all. I worked on the trailer yesterday. It turns out my keel tray board needed to be 10'6" to span the three trailer beams. Needed to make a late run to the hardware for a 12' board as the 10 footer I had was short. It looks like my top adjustable "L" mounts for the hull supports had all slid to the bottom of the adjustment channel. I'm hoping I can slide in some 2*4 blocks between the brackets and the upper bunks. I can't see any way tightening up one bolt would hold the weight of the boat.
 
Feb 18, 2011
330
Hunter 260 Cave Run Lake, KY
I've noticed there were 2 factory trailers for the 1998 240's- the older style may have been left over from the 23.5. The older style (like mine) has squared-off fenders, and the centerboard bunk is shorter. The front of the centerboard extends in front of the bunk by a couple of feet. This model has 4 vertical supports for the side bunks. The later style has round fenders, and a longer centerboard bunk that extends under the whole board. The newer trailer also has only 3 vertical supports for the side bunks. See attached photos-

Hi all. I worked on the trailer yesterday. It turns out my keel tray board needed to be 10'6" to span the three trailer beams. Needed to make a late run to the hardware for a 12' board as the 10 footer I had was short. It looks like my top adjustable "L" mounts for the hull supports had all slid to the bottom of the adjustment channel. I'm hoping I can slide in some 2*4 blocks between the brackets and the upper bunks. I can't see any way tightening up one bolt would hold the weight of the boat.
 

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Jun 3, 2004
130
Seaward 24 Indianapolis
I've noticed there were 2 factory trailers for the 1998 240's- the older style may have been left over from the 23.5. The older style (like mine) has squared-off fenders, and the centerboard bunk is shorter. The front of the centerboard extends in front of the bunk by a couple of feet. This model has 4 vertical supports for the side bunks. The later style has a longer centerboard bunk that extends under the whole board. The newer trailer also has only 3 vertical supports for the side bunks. See attached photos-
Mine is like pictures 2 and 3 with the keel tray boards to the front brace. My biggest issue was when the boat would get a little crooked the swing keel would be to one side or the other of the 1*8's and not yet over the most forward trailer frame structure. With the boat weight it would really bow the board down until I got the bow snugged up against the winch post. The snugging process had actually peeled back part of the 1* while cranking the baot forward.
 
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