Towing Checklist?

[Dave C20469]

In the next 6 weeks or so I'll be moving my '97 H-26 from Minneapolis to Petoskey, MI - roughly 500 miles. While I've gotten a feel for towing it short distances (under 30 miles), I'm a little concerned about the long haul.Does anyone who tows long distances have a pre-tow checklist? Specifically I'm thinking about the trailer, as it's basically been a cradle with wheels for the last 6+ years.Is there any maintanence or check I can/should do for the brake system? I'm planning on taking the tires off and running them to Discount Tires for balancing (presuming that they are in good shape - if not, I'll replace them...)Any hints and suggestions you can provide for a long haul would be very much appreciated. (And yes George, I've already read the archives! ;D )Dave Crowleys/v Wind Dreamer

 

[Craig]

Towing PreCheck

At the end of each season, after bring my boat back from Seattle to Boise, I take the boat/trailer to a local hitch/trailer shop. They pull each wheel, inspect and repack the bearings, and bleed/inspect the surge brakes. Some times bearings or seals get replaced as needed. Around $140 for piece of mind.

 

[Jim Schaff]

Towing a H-26

I very seldom tow my H26 less than 300 miles one way since I live in Southern Arizona and have a long way to go to water!I've learned some valuable towing lessons that I'll pass on to you. Most of these lessons have cost me time, frustration and money! I'll give them to you for free!Make sure your trailer tires are properly inflated and balanced. If the tires aren't balanced you'll be breaking fender bolts from vibration -- even if you can't see the vibration in your rear-view mirror. Your fender can fall and slash your tires, or even fall off on the highway.If you tie your boat down with a strap, make sure the strap has some twists in it. A flat strap (even a very tight one) will flop or vibrate and can eventually dig into your gelcoat on the boat.Make sure there is nothing loose inside the cabin. It WILL fall and probably break or gouge something.If you tow with the motor on, use a motor brace so the motor can't bounce. Tie the bow cleat tightly to the top of the trailer ladder and winch it down or the vibration from the trailer ladder will dig a hole in the bow, even if there is a V or a bow roller for the bow to fit in.Make sure all halyard ends are secure or they will shred. Wrapping with cellophane(sp?) and then duct tape works well.If you have a whip antenna on top of your mast, remove it for the trip. It can start whipping so hard it will break off.It works well to loop both shrouds (upper and lower)together and secure them to a stantion with bungee cords.Tie the mast down to the crutch so it can't bounce and secure the crutch tightly to both sides of the boat so there is no sideways movement. Also tie the mast down tightly to the bow of the boat.Place a support (wooden block) on top of the mast step and support the "laying down" mast. Tie the block in place so it doesn't fall off on the highway.Make sure your brakes are working properly. If you have surge brakes, try backing your trailer up an incline -- if your brakes are working they should lock up doing this.Grease your bearings well and carry a spare set and know how to change them. Don't mix different kinds of grease in your bearkings.Make sure the spare tire is secure on the trailer.Secure the rudder in an upright position with ropes. If it falls down, it will be much shorter when you arrive than when you started.Make sure you have the right size ball for the hitch and make sure the hitch can't open.Use towing safety chains that cross under the hitch.Make sure your tounge extension will not extend while towing.I'm sure there are other things to consider but these are things I've learned -- mostly the hard way!!Jim Schaffs/v Savannah

 

[Jonathan Costello]

A couple more things

Jim and Craig have excellent points and I agree with Jim on everything except the bearings and brakes. I am with Craig on the brakes and axle. If your trailer has been a cradle with wheels you definitely need to pull the hubs and check your bearings and brakes. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself then bring it to a trailer place and have them go over the entire brake system and hubs. Don't just shoot some grease in the hubs and call it good. Chances are your coupler is OEM from Hunter and is an Atwood. The design flaw in the Atwood coupler is the plastic filler cap. The design allows water to migrate under the filler cap assembly and cause two things to happen 1) the moisture will corrode the threads that the cap assembly in threaded into and as a result 2) water will get into your master cylinder. If your master cylinder has not been kept full of brake fluid chances are your seals are bad and the master cylinder will need to be replaced. If your filler cap assembly is corroded then you are probably wasting your time trying to replace the filler cap because the threads will not keep a good seal around the cap and allow water to get in. I tried re-tapping it and it was futile. You will be better off replacing the brake actuator with a Tie-Down Engineering actuator. If you haven't been maintaing your brake system your wheel cylinders may also be suspect and possibly need replacing. This is all first hand experience.Also, I would get a big turnbuckle and a piece of heavy chain to hook the bow eye to the frame. Don't rely on the winch to keep your boat on the trailer.If you have a windex on the top of your mast take that off or it probably won't be there when you get to your destination.Go around your trailer and tighten all the bolts you can get to in case any are loose.Check to ensure your tires are not dry rottedand inspect them for cuts.With a 26 your brakes are vitally important. I'm not trying to scare you but more to prepare you for what you may find when you start inspecting your brake system (or have someone do it) so you don't think the mechanic is trying to make you spend money on items that don't need replacing. I am currently rebuilding my brake system and these are items I found left over from the previous owner who used his trailer as a cradle with wheels.Let us know what you find and hopefully you will prove my crystal ball wrong.Good luck.Jonathan CostelloHeeling Powers

 

[Rick Webb]

I Have a Slightly Different View on Bearings

If you can't do them yourself scrap the trailer and leave the boat in the water.It is a really simple job the toughest part is getting the wheel of and here again if you can't change a tire you have no business towing a trailer. The next toughest part is getting the grease smell off your hands but if you think ahead and use latex gloves you do not even have to deal with that.Sounds a little harsh I guess my only excuse is my wife has been out of town on business for some time and well, it's been quite a while if you know what I mean.

 

[Tom2909]

Periodically stop and check your hubs...

While trailering, stop occasionally and make sure everything is riding ok. Also check your tires and esp. the hubs to see if they are overheating. They will be warm, but shouldn't be so hot you can't hold a bare hand on them.Besides a spare tire, it is a good idea to bring along a spare set of bearings and a jack, lug wrench, etc. Also, a Boat US membership with the $10 trailerable add-on might be a good idea. A friend recently had a flat while on the road, didn't have a spare, and Boat US had them on their way in 90 minutes for the price of a new tire!Fair winds and roads,Tom

 

[Dave C20469]

Thanks - as always!

I appreciate the advice and insight. No worries, Rick, I understand - I'll be living solo for three months during this transition. My worries have been confirmed and I will most likely take it to a trailer shop to ensure I get it done properly. Thanks all!Dave Crowleys/v Wind Dreamer(soon to be on Lake Charlevoix, MI! )

 

[Rick Webb]

Tom's Post Reminds Me

Get a spare tire even if it is just for the trip and you return it to the store after you get to your final destination.You will also want to make sure you have a jack that will fit under your trailer when the tire is flat and a lug wrench. In a pinch you can pull the flat tire up onto the block of wood you use as a chock or even your spare tire in order to get the jack under the tire.Ask the shop to teach you how to repack the bearings if you do not feel comfortable doing it on your own. During the winter perhaps the local community college offers classes on basic automotive maintenance.

 

[keel_haul]

check the surge brake fluid and take spare

Before you start check the Surge Brake Fluid. Take a pint of extra fluid with you I think it is "Dot 3" Brake Fluid. Check the level every 500 miles or so. It makes a difference. My prior boat was 32' and boat and trailor was 10,000 pounds behind the car. I could not stop short, just slow down. Drive knowing that. Most accidents happen at the end of the journey when you think you have it made. Tell yourself that when you have 15 miles to go. Good luck.