i'm having a bottom job done on my Hunter 22 this week, and while the boat was out of the water (fixed keel), i thought about asking the boatyard if i could go ahead and paint the topsides. they didn't seem interested in performing the task, and i'm not sure i'm up to it. if someone has attempted the project on his own, i'd love to hear your comments/suggestions. i'm new at this entire experience, but have fallen in love with sailing.
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DEPENDS ON EXPECTED RESULTS
Are you sure it needs a paint job ? Quite possibly a compounding and good coat of wax may make it look like it just came off the manufacturing line. If so, I had ok results with a foam roller and extremly thin coats of paint. The trick I found was that if you let the paint set up for a few minutes and went back over it with almost no pressure at all the results were consistant and reasonably flat. I would not do it again though. If you are looking for professional results, I think you need to seek one out.
Are you sure it needs a paint job ? Quite possibly a compounding and good coat of wax may make it look like it just came off the manufacturing line. If so, I had ok results with a foam roller and extremly thin coats of paint. The trick I found was that if you let the paint set up for a few minutes and went back over it with almost no pressure at all the results were consistant and reasonably flat. I would not do it again though. If you are looking for professional results, I think you need to seek one out.
You can do it, but...
Painting a boat properly requires a LOT of preparation, and unless the yard is set up for hull/topsides painting, they probably don't want to mess with it. The type of paint, the weather, dust, bugs, equipment, time, etc., they all factor in and an 8 hour job can take a month. I've painted 2 and unless I get a real deal on a Hinckley or Swan, I'll never do it again. But it can be done.
Painting a boat properly requires a LOT of preparation, and unless the yard is set up for hull/topsides painting, they probably don't want to mess with it. The type of paint, the weather, dust, bugs, equipment, time, etc., they all factor in and an 8 hour job can take a month. I've painted 2 and unless I get a real deal on a Hinckley or Swan, I'll never do it again. But it can be done.
Yes, but how bad is current finish
I repainted an old Hunter 25 a part of a larger restoration project. My boat had hit the rocks hard and the prior owner had done a very poor job of repairing the damage and painting the hull. Interlux has a brochure on this topic. Also check Cruising World and Sail. I know they have covered this topic at some point. Basically its a two person job, one person rolls on the paint and the other flattens out the roller marks with a painting pad. I would try a good compound and wax job first unless your hull is in extermely poor condition. Prep time is considerable, the yard may be done with the bottom before your ready to paint. Be prepared for an extended haul out time.
I repainted an old Hunter 25 a part of a larger restoration project. My boat had hit the rocks hard and the prior owner had done a very poor job of repairing the damage and painting the hull. Interlux has a brochure on this topic. Also check Cruising World and Sail. I know they have covered this topic at some point. Basically its a two person job, one person rolls on the paint and the other flattens out the roller marks with a painting pad. I would try a good compound and wax job first unless your hull is in extermely poor condition. Prep time is considerable, the yard may be done with the bottom before your ready to paint. Be prepared for an extended haul out time.
Check these sites:
Hi Sherry, I was going to do the same this Spring. My source of information was at "www.sailnet.com", see DIY Boatworks, then "All articles", then "New Shine for an Old Hull". Don Casey provides all the detail for painting topsides. But then I read about PoliGlow and decided to try that first. If it doesn't work the paint will wait a year. See: www.poliglowproducts.com/poliglow.html
Hi Sherry, I was going to do the same this Spring. My source of information was at "www.sailnet.com", see DIY Boatworks, then "All articles", then "New Shine for an Old Hull". Don Casey provides all the detail for painting topsides. But then I read about PoliGlow and decided to try that first. If it doesn't work the paint will wait a year. See: www.poliglowproducts.com/poliglow.html
Poli-Glow
Sherry, et. al: I was also considering a topside paint job (self applied since I don't have $3,000+ hanging around) but decided to try Poli-Glow when I saw a demo at the Annapolis Boat Show. Although my "data base" is limited (the stuff has only been on the boat for 4 months), so far I am extremely pleased with the product. Following the directions given with the product (and after a couple phone calls to their help line for clarification [I'm a little dense!]), I found Poli-Glow to be relatively easy to apply and brought a great luster back to a heavily oxidized hull. Even the local boat cleaning/refinishing folks at my yard were impressed! There is at least one other similar product on the market (also shown at the boat show), but I went with Poli-Glow because they had a better applicator (a big deal when you do it...trust me!) and when after I got both the finish and stripper (required to remove any previous coatings such as wax, waterline scum, etc.), less costly. Like I said, I've only had Poli-Glow on the boat for a few months, but I have great hopes that it will allow me to put off a paint job for at least a few more years. I'll keep everyone informed as to the durability of the finish over the season. Happy Sailing, Tim L. "TIDE"
Sherry, et. al: I was also considering a topside paint job (self applied since I don't have $3,000+ hanging around) but decided to try Poli-Glow when I saw a demo at the Annapolis Boat Show. Although my "data base" is limited (the stuff has only been on the boat for 4 months), so far I am extremely pleased with the product. Following the directions given with the product (and after a couple phone calls to their help line for clarification [I'm a little dense!]), I found Poli-Glow to be relatively easy to apply and brought a great luster back to a heavily oxidized hull. Even the local boat cleaning/refinishing folks at my yard were impressed! There is at least one other similar product on the market (also shown at the boat show), but I went with Poli-Glow because they had a better applicator (a big deal when you do it...trust me!) and when after I got both the finish and stripper (required to remove any previous coatings such as wax, waterline scum, etc.), less costly. Like I said, I've only had Poli-Glow on the boat for a few months, but I have great hopes that it will allow me to put off a paint job for at least a few more years. I'll keep everyone informed as to the durability of the finish over the season. Happy Sailing, Tim L. "TIDE"
Poli-Glo Question
Tim, does the Poliglo take off the oxidation or does that require the stripper? Or does the combination of the two just cover up the oxidation and put a shine on top of it? Been working on my deck which has NEVER been waxed (or even washed before I owned it, I think) and have tried every cleaner/polisher/restorer/remover sold at almost any store. I'm down to using white polishing compound and a 6" orbital polisher on about 3 sq.ft. at a time. It's taking forever. Of the previous products used, many worked great on some other boats in the marina, wipe on, rub lightly, wipe off, new shine; stuff didn't do anything to my boat but discolor the oxidation. (Just to give you an idea of how bad it is.)
Tim, does the Poliglo take off the oxidation or does that require the stripper? Or does the combination of the two just cover up the oxidation and put a shine on top of it? Been working on my deck which has NEVER been waxed (or even washed before I owned it, I think) and have tried every cleaner/polisher/restorer/remover sold at almost any store. I'm down to using white polishing compound and a 6" orbital polisher on about 3 sq.ft. at a time. It's taking forever. Of the previous products used, many worked great on some other boats in the marina, wipe on, rub lightly, wipe off, new shine; stuff didn't do anything to my boat but discolor the oxidation. (Just to give you an idea of how bad it is.)
Poli-Glow and Oxidation
Here is a review which says that the oxidation must be removed. CHUCKWOLFE@MAIL.COM A Reprint from BOATING Hull of a Glow If your boat's hull looks dingier than a high-school locker, liven it up with a coat of Poli Glow. I used this polyurethane-based fiberglass polish on my old 1968 cruiser, and while it didn’t bring the finish back to showroom quality, I could once again see my reflection in the hull. I’ve tried a number of waxes and polishes on the hull and Poli Glow did in two hours what the rest couldn’t do at all. Unlike petroleum-based products, Poli Glow doesn’t have an oil base that can harden, yellow and flake off. Instead, its water-based blend of polymers form a sealer that infiltrates the fiberglass and cures to a hard finish that soap and water won’t rinse off. Your hull has to be squeaky clean and dry, plus you must remove all oxidation and old wax before this liquid polish can work its magic. Poli Glow comes with an applicator and is available in 16- and 32-oz. bottles. The 32 oz. size was just enough for my 32-footer. Contact Poli Glow at 800/922-5013. —S. Reininger
Here is a review which says that the oxidation must be removed. CHUCKWOLFE@MAIL.COM A Reprint from BOATING Hull of a Glow If your boat's hull looks dingier than a high-school locker, liven it up with a coat of Poli Glow. I used this polyurethane-based fiberglass polish on my old 1968 cruiser, and while it didn’t bring the finish back to showroom quality, I could once again see my reflection in the hull. I’ve tried a number of waxes and polishes on the hull and Poli Glow did in two hours what the rest couldn’t do at all. Unlike petroleum-based products, Poli Glow doesn’t have an oil base that can harden, yellow and flake off. Instead, its water-based blend of polymers form a sealer that infiltrates the fiberglass and cures to a hard finish that soap and water won’t rinse off. Your hull has to be squeaky clean and dry, plus you must remove all oxidation and old wax before this liquid polish can work its magic. Poli Glow comes with an applicator and is available in 16- and 32-oz. bottles. The 32 oz. size was just enough for my 32-footer. Contact Poli Glow at 800/922-5013. —S. Reininger
Poli-Glo
To those of you with experience with this product, what did you do with the non-skid areas? I've seen this product used on a friend's hull and it seemed to work very well but the preparation is the key.
To those of you with experience with this product, what did you do with the non-skid areas? I've seen this product used on a friend's hull and it seemed to work very well but the preparation is the key.
Poli-Glow Topside
Jay, Eric, et.al.: I would NOT recommend using ANY coating on the topside decks. While I don't think POLI-GLOW makes the fiberglass surface much/any slicker, I don't want to find out for sure when I'm double-reefed with the rail down in heavy seas and have to go forward to free a jib sheet. I especially wouldn't use it on any non-skid areas. If it doesn't come off with "SIMPLE GREEN" or a similar non-abrasive cleaner, it becomes part of the boat! FYI, I only get to visit this site once a week or so, so if someone replies to a posting I make, please be patient and I WILL reply next time I'm home long enough to boot up the computer! Tim L. deep into winter projects on "TIDE"
Jay, Eric, et.al.: I would NOT recommend using ANY coating on the topside decks. While I don't think POLI-GLOW makes the fiberglass surface much/any slicker, I don't want to find out for sure when I'm double-reefed with the rail down in heavy seas and have to go forward to free a jib sheet. I especially wouldn't use it on any non-skid areas. If it doesn't come off with "SIMPLE GREEN" or a similar non-abrasive cleaner, it becomes part of the boat! FYI, I only get to visit this site once a week or so, so if someone replies to a posting I make, please be patient and I WILL reply next time I'm home long enough to boot up the computer! Tim L. deep into winter projects on "TIDE"
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