Topping Lift.

Aug 31, 2013
16
Hunter 30 Knife River, MN
I want to remove or modify the fixed topping lift on my ‘83 Hunter 30 to allow for a new mainsail with two full top battans and a larger roach. The new main would hang up on existing fixed topping lift. I think the options are: a hard boom vang, a boomkicker, or modifying the topping lift so I can move it from the clew as needed. I’d like to do this inexpensively. I’m a cruiser not a racer. All comments, suggestions and recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Nov 8, 2007
1,594
Hunter 27_75-84 Sandusky Harbor Marina, Ohio
I have a roachy main with 2 full battens on the top on our ‘77 h27. I rigged a strong, light line in several loops from the end of the topping lift to the end of the boom. Hanging on the topping lift, the boom end easily clears my head (5’10”) standing in the cockpit. The mainsail lifts the boom up another 6-8 inches. The resulting slack in the topping lift allow it to easily flop around the roach at the top of the sail. This has worked fine for the last 19 years, and did not produce any noticeable wear on either of the two sets of sails we had during that time. We average over 500 nm of cruising per summer. Not sure if this will work for you, but you asked for ideas.

Good luck.
 
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Aug 31, 2013
16
Hunter 30 Knife River, MN
Thanks, Dave! Sounds like a very practical (and no cost) solution. I’m 5’9” but as I’m sitting here at home I’m not sure I have that much clearance. I’ll do some measuring and see if I can make it work for me.
 

Gunni

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Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
I have a topping lift, a full-batten mainsail, and a rigid vang. When the sail is hoisted it lifts the boom, the topping lift goes slack and and the sail clears the topping lift. If I vang the sail down tight the topping lift occasionally will brush the leech of the sail - I loosen the topping lift. My topping lift routes over the masthead and down internally to a cleat, it is effectively a second main halyard.

I would think that between a rigger and a sailmaker, plus a rigid vang you could configure a workable solution.
 
Aug 31, 2013
16
Hunter 30 Knife River, MN
Thanks for the pic and suggestions, Dave, Joe and Gunni. Going to the boat tomorrow and explore what might work best. I appreciate all of the responses.
Bob
 
Jun 25, 2004
1,109
Corsair F24 Mk1 003 San Francisco Bay, CA
I want to remove or modify the fixed topping lift on my ‘83 Hunter 30 to allow for a new mainsail with two full top battans and a larger roach. The new main would hang up on existing fixed topping lift. I think the options are: a hard boom vang, a boomkicker, or modifying the topping lift so I can move it from the clew as needed. I’d like to do this inexpensively. I’m a cruiser not a racer. All comments, suggestions and recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.
The topping lift probably will not work any differently with a bigger roach than it did with the old mainsail. It will lie alongside the new mainsail, just the same as it does when you raise the old one.

The backstay, however, might cause a problem if the roach is too generous. You should tell the sailmaker that you want the roach to just barely overlap the backstay , or be just inside the backstay.

A mainsail never crosses a topping lift. Topping lifts go from the top of the mast to the end of the boom, and they move with the sail. Topping lifts always lie up against one side of the mainsail. They always stay on the same side of the mainsail when you tack after the mainsail is raised. Topping lifts generally don't cause a real problem when tacking or gybing, no matter whether the mainsail has a small or large roach.

In contrast to the topping lift, the backstay is in a fixed position and the mainsail has to get past it when you tack. If you tell the sailmaker to make the roach just inside the backstay or to "just kiss" the backstay, it will be fine.

When you get your new sail, the roach may overlap the backstay by an inch or two or a little more, when you first hoist it. At the dock, the overlap may look like a lot, but it may be no problem when you go sailing. When it fills with wind and is curved rather than flat it won't overlap as much as when it's luffing. If the roach overlaps the backstay only an inch or two or so, it will get past the backstay and you won't even notice it 99% of the time.

In less than 2 knots of wind, you might find the overlapping roach catches on the backstay, and you might need to yank the boom downward to pop the roach and battens past the backstay. Generally, that's not a problem for cruisers to handle in light wind. In higher wind, you won't even notice the roach "kissing" the backstay.

If the roach overlaps the backstay more than a couple of inches, and therefore won't pass the backstay, your sailmaker goofed. The sailmaker will need to alter the sail to reduce the roach at the 1st and second battens. If the alteration is done in a professional manner, it will be as nice as brand new.

Judy B
Sailmaker

 
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Oct 19, 2017
7,994
O'Day Mariner 19 Littleton, NH
:plus:
What Judy says is exactly how I've always seen it work.
If it works differently for you, maybe a removable boom support when at dock, since you only use a topping lift when the sail is down. That makes it hard to drop the sail, for whatever reason, in the middle of a trip. Other designs use a boom arch, but those usually go with longer booms. Dragonfly has a backstay clip instead of a topping lift. I have to remember to clip it in before dropping the main.

- Will (Dragonfly)
 
Aug 31, 2013
16
Hunter 30 Knife River, MN
Thanks Judy. It was the sail loft that raised the concern. The current fixed topping lift works as you describe but the the old main has a roach that is a dead straight line from head to clew. The loft could cut the new sail the same but pointed out that a bit more sail area & better shape would be achieved if the topping lift was moved back to be even with the backstay. Not a necessity but an improvement. Thanks for your input.
Bob