I bought my 1987 34 hunter this spring. We set mast up and did all of the rigging ourselves. I have a question about the topping lift. I am a rookie at this so i will say it in my terms. The line from the top of the mast to the back of the boom has a short line of maybe two feet in between. This is plain old line and I adjusted it so the mast would not hit me in the head when we tack or accidental jibe. I am 6 foot 2. Anyway, there is no adjustment. The line is solid from the top of the mast to the boom. Today, when we were sailing, the line was always tight,and never really flew free for the boom to rise. It seems like my old boat allowed the back of the boom to lift. Whats going on here? I noticed there is room for four lines to go thru the boom to the mast. I have used two, one for the reefing and one for outhaul. Should the topping lift line go thru here and tied off at the mast? Anyway, on our way back downwind to the marina we disconnected the line from boom to mast and the boat immediatley picked up a knot or two. The boom also dropped lower and that sucker hit me smack in the head. Now you know why I tied it higher. Thanks for your help.
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Dakota Jim Russell
Boom Named For Unhappy Events
Ah, now you know why it is named boom. The topping lift ususally has an adjustment either at the mast end (probably possible) or from just above the end of the boom (your case), or in some cases both. It usually is pulled up some when the sail is down to provide additional clearance. When sailing it should be loose to permit a better shape in the sail. You may find a way to adjust at the mast end from a line that comes down and is tied off. Occassionally, the line is fixed (tied off in some manner) to the top of the mast and has no adjustment at the base of the mast (may be your situation). However you probably are tall enough to use the boom end adjustment from what you've said. But remember to duck <grin>.
Ah, now you know why it is named boom. The topping lift ususally has an adjustment either at the mast end (probably possible) or from just above the end of the boom (your case), or in some cases both. It usually is pulled up some when the sail is down to provide additional clearance. When sailing it should be loose to permit a better shape in the sail. You may find a way to adjust at the mast end from a line that comes down and is tied off. Occassionally, the line is fixed (tied off in some manner) to the top of the mast and has no adjustment at the base of the mast (may be your situation). However you probably are tall enough to use the boom end adjustment from what you've said. But remember to duck <grin>.
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DJ Dreyer
Low Bridge, everyone... ummphhh......
I have a '84 34. On my boom there are two reef lines that go through the two turning blocks on each side at the aft end of the boom and to the two blocks with jam fittings at the gooseneck. The outhaul is a wire that passed over a center wire block at the end of the boom to an internal bock and tackle arrangement. This block and tackle uses a line to go out at the gooseneck at a block in the center and was tied off to a cleat on the underside of the boom near the gooseneck. Originally for the topping lift, I had a wire fixed at the masthead that came down to a line that was fixed to the wire with an eye splice. I ran this line through the top aft end of the boom where a clevis pin was located. I then used a taut line hitch to allow adjustment of the toping lift and ran a shock cord from the eye splice in the line to the clevis pin to keep any slack out of the line when it was loosened for sailing (prevents sail chafe.) I now use a 3/8" line run as a spare main halyard to a toggle at the clevis pin for a topping lift (I have stacked 2 on 2 deck organizers to two 2 line stoppers by the cabin top winches). I'd take off the end of the boom and look to see what I have or don't have inside. I'm not your height and I have to watch out for the boom when taking. Either move the boom up (and re-cut the main smaller) or learn to duck like I have. Anyway you rig the boom is right IF it works for you!
I have a '84 34. On my boom there are two reef lines that go through the two turning blocks on each side at the aft end of the boom and to the two blocks with jam fittings at the gooseneck. The outhaul is a wire that passed over a center wire block at the end of the boom to an internal bock and tackle arrangement. This block and tackle uses a line to go out at the gooseneck at a block in the center and was tied off to a cleat on the underside of the boom near the gooseneck. Originally for the topping lift, I had a wire fixed at the masthead that came down to a line that was fixed to the wire with an eye splice. I ran this line through the top aft end of the boom where a clevis pin was located. I then used a taut line hitch to allow adjustment of the toping lift and ran a shock cord from the eye splice in the line to the clevis pin to keep any slack out of the line when it was loosened for sailing (prevents sail chafe.) I now use a 3/8" line run as a spare main halyard to a toggle at the clevis pin for a topping lift (I have stacked 2 on 2 deck organizers to two 2 line stoppers by the cabin top winches). I'd take off the end of the boom and look to see what I have or don't have inside. I'm not your height and I have to watch out for the boom when taking. Either move the boom up (and re-cut the main smaller) or learn to duck like I have. Anyway you rig the boom is right IF it works for you!
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Scott Johnston
Our 34 topping lift
On our 83-H34 the topping lift wire runs from the top of the mast and ends in a small block. A line (1/4 or 5/16) is tied to the end of the boom, runs up thru the block and then back to the end of the boom where it runs thru a turining block (part of the end of the boom), internal along the port side of the boom to a jam cleat on the port side of the boom. (hope that makes sense?). The setup works well. I will eventually add another set of blocks and deck cleats and run this line back to the cockpit. Until then you need to make a trip to the mast to adjust it. On the stbd side (internal boom) are the reefing and outhaul lines. Hope this helps. If you need more info I could draw up a pic and e-mail it to you. Let me know. Scott 83-H34 Island Hops IslandHops@DuraLan.com
On our 83-H34 the topping lift wire runs from the top of the mast and ends in a small block. A line (1/4 or 5/16) is tied to the end of the boom, runs up thru the block and then back to the end of the boom where it runs thru a turining block (part of the end of the boom), internal along the port side of the boom to a jam cleat on the port side of the boom. (hope that makes sense?). The setup works well. I will eventually add another set of blocks and deck cleats and run this line back to the cockpit. Until then you need to make a trip to the mast to adjust it. On the stbd side (internal boom) are the reefing and outhaul lines. Hope this helps. If you need more info I could draw up a pic and e-mail it to you. Let me know. Scott 83-H34 Island Hops IslandHops@DuraLan.com
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Scott Johnston
One more thing (topping lift)
I'm also 6-2 and you just learn to stay out of the way. Our main is a little baggy (old age - arent we all) and that causes it to be a little lower than I would like but you get used to it. The best thing about owning an older hunter is our fantastic & versitile aluminum toe rail. (wait for the slams on that one). It makes it very easy to rig a preventer for those downwind runs. Far less worry about accidential jibes. Rig one and use it, especially if you are new to the boat. As they say, a safe boat is no accident. Scott 83-H34 Island Hops PS. An 'experienced' sailor suggested that If I replaced my main with a new 'flatter cut' one then it would also cut down on weather helm. Thoughts?
I'm also 6-2 and you just learn to stay out of the way. Our main is a little baggy (old age - arent we all) and that causes it to be a little lower than I would like but you get used to it. The best thing about owning an older hunter is our fantastic & versitile aluminum toe rail. (wait for the slams on that one). It makes it very easy to rig a preventer for those downwind runs. Far less worry about accidential jibes. Rig one and use it, especially if you are new to the boat. As they say, a safe boat is no accident. Scott 83-H34 Island Hops PS. An 'experienced' sailor suggested that If I replaced my main with a new 'flatter cut' one then it would also cut down on weather helm. Thoughts?
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John K Kudera
Different 34
My boat was rigged with the single reef line on the starboard side of the gooseneck side of the boom, and the center, with the internal block and tackle for the outhaul, tied to the cleat on the bottom of the boom, with the topping lift and a line to adjust on the port side of the gooseneck end of the boom. I find this works well, Iis it the correct way to be rigged? I have no clue!!
My boat was rigged with the single reef line on the starboard side of the gooseneck side of the boom, and the center, with the internal block and tackle for the outhaul, tied to the cleat on the bottom of the boom, with the topping lift and a line to adjust on the port side of the gooseneck end of the boom. I find this works well, Iis it the correct way to be rigged? I have no clue!!
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Stephen Ostrander
toe rail debate
Well, Craig, since you brought it up . . .I had an aluminum toe rail on my 28.5 but my new 33.5 doesn't have one. I had to remove and rebed the rail to fix the leaks but I think that the rail makes a stronger hull/deck joint. I don't miss hundreds of potential leaks, though. I like the looks of the rail and they are handy to shackle things onto. So I guess I kind of miss the old rail . . . (sigh)
Well, Craig, since you brought it up . . .I had an aluminum toe rail on my 28.5 but my new 33.5 doesn't have one. I had to remove and rebed the rail to fix the leaks but I think that the rail makes a stronger hull/deck joint. I don't miss hundreds of potential leaks, though. I like the looks of the rail and they are handy to shackle things onto. So I guess I kind of miss the old rail . . . (sigh)
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Craig
Some interesting ideas
Ok, is there something I could hook up to the end of the boom and attach it to the line coming down from the top of the mast and beable to adjust it from the cockpit area? Right now I have this loop of line of about two feet between the boom and end of line that goes to the top of the mast. Could I put a block on the line from the mast and somehow use that to adjust the back end of the boom? What or how would I tie that off? Dont think I have a cleet on the boom. Looking for a simple suggestion so I dont have to go up to the mast to adjust. Thanks for your help. I see something like a mini boom vang up there. After I get that resolved I will pickup a helmet for future use.
Ok, is there something I could hook up to the end of the boom and attach it to the line coming down from the top of the mast and beable to adjust it from the cockpit area? Right now I have this loop of line of about two feet between the boom and end of line that goes to the top of the mast. Could I put a block on the line from the mast and somehow use that to adjust the back end of the boom? What or how would I tie that off? Dont think I have a cleet on the boom. Looking for a simple suggestion so I dont have to go up to the mast to adjust. Thanks for your help. I see something like a mini boom vang up there. After I get that resolved I will pickup a helmet for future use.
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Derek Rowell
H34 topping lift and preventer...
I still have the original topping lift which is simply the length of line run through the clevis pin at the end of the boom and tied off with a hitch on itself. One of the problems with easing the topping lift under sail is that of the line is too slack it can get caught behind the spreader caps on the swept back spreaders, leading to some excitement the next time you tack or gybe! In 20 knots the only way I've found of freeing it is to remove the line from the boom take it forward and flail around to bring it aft of the sreader. This thread has made me renew my annual pledge (I'm basically lazy) to install some shock cord this weekend!! Incidentally, talking of toe-rails and gybe preventers, The vang on my '83 H34 is attached to the mast base with a snap shackle. To rig the vang as a preventer, simply undo the shackle from the mast and re-attach to the toe rail. Works great!! Derek
I still have the original topping lift which is simply the length of line run through the clevis pin at the end of the boom and tied off with a hitch on itself. One of the problems with easing the topping lift under sail is that of the line is too slack it can get caught behind the spreader caps on the swept back spreaders, leading to some excitement the next time you tack or gybe! In 20 knots the only way I've found of freeing it is to remove the line from the boom take it forward and flail around to bring it aft of the sreader. This thread has made me renew my annual pledge (I'm basically lazy) to install some shock cord this weekend!! Incidentally, talking of toe-rails and gybe preventers, The vang on my '83 H34 is attached to the mast base with a snap shackle. To rig the vang as a preventer, simply undo the shackle from the mast and re-attach to the toe rail. Works great!! Derek
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Ken Palmer
Reworked my H33
The topping lift on my H33 was a wire rope from the top of the mast fixed to the rear of the boom with no adjustment. I disconnected the topping lift from the boom, cut off a couple feet, and added a small block to that end. I then used some small line (I don't remember the diameter) tying one end to where the topping lift used to go on the boom. I run that line up to the new block, through the block and back down, through a new cheek block that I added to the starboard side of the boom. From there I ran the line forward to a clam cleat that I added to the boom. Adding both the cheek block and clam cleat meant that I had to drill and tap holes into the boom, something I hated to do, but necessary. I believe if you want cockpit adjustment, you will have to eliminate the boom cleat and run the line through a series of blocks on the mast, back to the cockpit. However, adjusting the topping lift is now an easy task for me. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
The topping lift on my H33 was a wire rope from the top of the mast fixed to the rear of the boom with no adjustment. I disconnected the topping lift from the boom, cut off a couple feet, and added a small block to that end. I then used some small line (I don't remember the diameter) tying one end to where the topping lift used to go on the boom. I run that line up to the new block, through the block and back down, through a new cheek block that I added to the starboard side of the boom. From there I ran the line forward to a clam cleat that I added to the boom. Adding both the cheek block and clam cleat meant that I had to drill and tap holes into the boom, something I hated to do, but necessary. I believe if you want cockpit adjustment, you will have to eliminate the boom cleat and run the line through a series of blocks on the mast, back to the cockpit. However, adjusting the topping lift is now an easy task for me. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
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DJ Dreyer
The simple fix
Craig, As I and Derek Rowell said - just take the end of the line (soft rope thing) and pass it under the clevis pin at the end of the boom and tie the line back to itself (use some type of hitch i.e. half hitches, tautline hitch). You can adjust this from the cockpit and if you use a piece of shock cord from the wire part of the topping lift to the end of the boom, it will help keep the topping lift from snaging. email me if you have questions djsailor@netscape.net DJ
Craig, As I and Derek Rowell said - just take the end of the line (soft rope thing) and pass it under the clevis pin at the end of the boom and tie the line back to itself (use some type of hitch i.e. half hitches, tautline hitch). You can adjust this from the cockpit and if you use a piece of shock cord from the wire part of the topping lift to the end of the boom, it will help keep the topping lift from snaging. email me if you have questions djsailor@netscape.net DJ
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Craig
Found my topping lift stuff
I was wondering what that extra block and six feet of line was for. I attached the block to the steel line coming down from the mast top. Then I tied off the line on the mast, ran it up through the block and down through a block attached to the side of the boom and forward to a jam cleat and tied it off. Seems to do the job. The original question was very basic to most but it did generate alittle conversation and got my problem resolved. Thanks. Will try it out tommorrow.
I was wondering what that extra block and six feet of line was for. I attached the block to the steel line coming down from the mast top. Then I tied off the line on the mast, ran it up through the block and down through a block attached to the side of the boom and forward to a jam cleat and tied it off. Seems to do the job. The original question was very basic to most but it did generate alittle conversation and got my problem resolved. Thanks. Will try it out tommorrow.
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