Toe rail corrosion fix

forbin

.
Nov 4, 2013
166
Tartan 3700 Seattle - Elliot Bay
This is a 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and nth opinion question...what would you do to fix this?

IMG_5786.jpg
 

forbin

.
Nov 4, 2013
166
Tartan 3700 Seattle - Elliot Bay
So take off the chock, grind down the aluminum to create a gap equal to the size of the bottom of the angle cut (top of the toe rail), then add a [plastic?] spacer to fill the gap? Or does all the corroded area need to be removed?

For background, this is on a boat I may be buying, so I want to know what to ask for or if it's not a big deal and I can have it done later, etc...
 
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Feb 26, 2004
23,084
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
So take off the chock, grind down the aluminum to create a gap equal to the size of the bottom of the angle cut (top of the toe rail), then add a [plastic?] spacer to fill the gap? Or does all the corroded area need to be removed?
First sentence: yes
Second: just sand it down.

You do understand why that's happening, do you not?
 
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forbin

.
Nov 4, 2013
166
Tartan 3700 Seattle - Elliot Bay
You do understand why that's happening, do you not?
Thanks. I do know why it's happening generally (or happened, but I assume it's still happening), but some things about it are confusing...
  • Why wouldn't there have been a spacer in there to begin with knowing what was likely to happen?
  • Why it would corrode with a particular pattern (the bottom part of the toe rail corroding at an angle rather than the pieces in contact with one another, if that's something that's predictable, or another part on the toe rail far away from the point of contact corroding if that's possible, etc)?
  • I thought that type of corrosion would occur fairly quickly, so is there a way to tell if it's a recent occurrence or if it's happened over years, or is the oxidized material providing a barrier between them and has stopped the corrosion?
  • This sounds like it isn't much of an issue once the metals are separated, correct?
Brian
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,496
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
I'm guessing it's something to do with production installation tolerances. I'd bet not every production unit fits up the same way. Some have gaps some don't
 
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Likes: ggrizzard
Feb 26, 2004
23,084
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Thanks. I do know why it's happening generally (or happened, but I assume it's still happening), but some things about it are confusing...
  • Why wouldn't there have been a spacer in there to begin with knowing what was likely to happen?
  • Why it would corrode with a particular pattern (the bottom part of the toe rail corroding at an angle rather than the pieces in contact with one another, if that's something that's predictable, or another part on the toe rail far away from the point of contact corroding if that's possible, etc)?
  • I thought that type of corrosion would occur fairly quickly, so is there a way to tell if it's a recent occurrence or if it's happened over years, or is the oxidized material providing a barrier between them and has stopped the corrosion?
  • This sounds like it isn't much of an issue once the metals are separated, correct?
Brian
1. Look at the other side of the chock and then look at the other side of the boat.
2. Gravity.
3. True, but once the corrosion starts it could build up its own "barrier" between the metals and stop itself. You're right. If you want, read up on galvanic corrosion, it's an oft discussed topic that is not specific to boats.
4. Yup.

Brian, see that wasn't so hard, was it? ;););)

Good luck.
 
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dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
4,455
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
Don't know if this tread helps you at all or not. But makes for some reading... LOL


dj
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
How wide would the gap have to be? Can't you run a hack saw or sawz-all in there then caulk it?
 
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forbin

.
Nov 4, 2013
166
Tartan 3700 Seattle - Elliot Bay
Don't know if this tread helps you at all or not. But makes for some reading... LOL
Oh, I'm having flashbacks to school just looking through the first page...dunno if I can do it.