To pull the yanmar or not ?

[Richard Shelby]

That is the question I pose to your collective wisdom. Here's the deal: My previous post about the Edson Pedistal alerted me to the seriousness of my rust problem. This all stemmed from a mixing elbow blowout about ten years ago in which the entire engine compartment was bathed in hot seawater. I've been aware of the problem and put off dealing with it by spraying all sorts of "corrosion blockers". Now I'm afraid the problem may be more than cosmetic. The 3qm30 is 30 years old with 2000 hours, was professionally rebuilt at 1000 hrs, has been otherwise properly maintained and cranks, runs, and does not smoke, etc. It just looks like hell and when I sell the boat, that will be an issue.

Perhaps you can post personal experience or links regarding the trials and tribulations of pulling the engine from this or similar boats.

If the engine were home, I can sandblast, paint, etc. But I'm not sure what I will find after I get it out. At least I can replace zincs, impellers, hoses,or possibly the mixing elbow.

The attached photo is of one motor mount.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Where is the boat Richard? In other words how will you lift the motor out? That is really the only issue. Then put a couple of lag bolts into a couple of 6x6s. To get mine ready to remove I first removed everything on the bulkheads. The shaft flange might give you trouble. And, naturally, those engine mount nuts. You might just remove the lag bolts but even those are hard to get at. My yard used their rack fork lift to pull it. I made it easier by welding a U-bracket to span the companionway. This way I was able to keep the weight centered. I sat it on a furniture dolly with 4x4s I think, six inches is better.

 

[rardiH36]

Hi Ed:

Happy T'day.

When looking at your pic of the 2QM20 sitting pretty on the ground, something looked out of balance compared to mine ... -- It's the location of the external heat exchanger that you had mounted against the exhaust manifold attached with what looks like stainless steel hose clamps. Am I seeing right?

This has great interest to me. My heat exchanger is mounted on a bulkhead in the port side lazarette under the seat bench. I have never liked the location because it is right next to the batteries and the solar charge controller and both the sea water and coolant are being routed outside the engine compartment with rather long hoses. One advantage of the locker location however is that the heat exchanger is mounted maybe about 9-12" higher, and comfortably above the water line, than it would be if in the engine compartment which is under the cockpit floor. Also I can check the coolant level (and add if necessary) by the clear access to the pressure cap. Just lift the seat cover (which stays open thanks to those "spring" devices!) and look down. Alternatively, if in the engine compartment I would need to remove the engine access hatch that is on the cockpit floor.

Any thoughts about me mounting my heat exchanger like yours was?

regards,
rardi

 

[Paul F]

Pulled the engine about a year ago. Lifted it up and slid it forward easily using a long 2X6 lever plank under it. Then used a hoist to take it up thru the companion way. Ed is right, if you can not disassemble the engine mounting bolts - take the lag bolts out. For my engine it was half and half as I was able to take off two engine mounting nuts and then had to remove the lag bolts from the wooden engine bed. This is not a bad job. You will be surprised how easy it is.

 

[Richard Shelby]

It was just gnawing at me, It had to come out like a bad tooth.

New belts, hoses, zincs, impellers, filters
rebuild starter
sandblast, etch, prime and paint.

My diesel mechanic is going to replace front and rear seals and I've ordered a new fuel pump, thermostats, mixing elbow, oil line, and motor mounts. Maybe more once he cracks her open.

I haven't gotten the bill yet. Pray for me.

I'm going to put s/v Raven up for sale, and some new owner is going to get a good deal. (Heck, I might even keep her).

attached pix before/after

 

[rardiH36]

Hello Richard:

How long did that mixing elbow last? It's the same type that I have on my 2QM20. I replaced the elbow (cast iron had cracked similar as in your picture) 2.5 years ago and now maybe 150 hrs on the engine since then. However, I suspect that longevity (or brevity is probably more like it) for mixing elbows is a function of both operating hours and just sitting around with evaporated salt water residue coating the inside.

 

[Richard Shelby]

I think it's only a few hundred hours. I would check it every oil change. They are basically "sacrificial". This old one is my second, and it may have only 300 hours. My mechanic says that a stainless or bronze elbow does not really last any longer than the iron.

 

[Jim Legere]

I'm going to put s/v Raven up for sale, and some new owner is going to get a good deal. (Heck, I might even keep her).

Heck, you had better keep her Richard - you will be disappointed by anything else you buy!

What did you use for engine paint? Spray cans or paint gun? Mine looks pretty similar to your 'before' pictures...

 

[Richard Shelby]

I have a gun, but my mechanic uses Rustoleum aerosol cans. Generic Ospho to neutraize rust, Rustoleum "self-etching primer" and finish coat of Rustoleum "hammered metal silver", its a close enough match for the Yanmar paint.

 

[rardiH36]

I think it's only a few hundred hours. I would check it every oil change. They are basically "sacrificial". This old one is my second, and it may have only 300 hours. My mechanic says that a stainless or bronze elbow does not really last any longer than the iron.

Richard:

Thanks for replying and the info. Particularly that SS doesn't necessarily make for a longer lasting elbow. I had been thinking about having a SS one fabricated for my next change-over. A local SS welder says that he does do this for boat owners. At $200 or so for the Yanmar OEM, the SS alternative had been looking attractive.

I wonder why stainless doesn't last much longer per your mechanic? Do you think it is metal fatigue due to heat and the corrosive environment? Or its just that they clog with carbon at the same rate no matter what the material. When I replaced my rusty/cracked Yanmar OEM elbow, really wasn't much carbon build-up inside.

regards,

rardi

 

[rhythmsurfer]

Richard,

Your engine looks incredible compard to mine. Mine is covered in rust. I replaced the zincs, changed the oil and filter, fuel filter, replaced the hoses, cleaned the heat exchanger, and put new motor mounts on. The engine runs like a champ. We just took her out 25 miles south of pensacola pass and ran the engine for 13hrs. I have no rpm guage but I run about 3/4 throttle.
Tony

 

[Richard Shelby]

Here's the parts list:

starter overhaul
eng. oil and trans fluid
motor mounts
gaskets ((7)
O-rings (2)
fuel pump
thermostat
seals(3)
oil lines
hoses
hose clamps
mixing elbow
labor: 23 hours

final charge $3384.not bad for a "new" yanmar 3qm30

If you're on the gulf coast I would recommend Charlie's Diesel in Elberta, Alabama. His shop is like an operating room.

 

[Jim Legere]

Nice, Richard!

If Alabama weren't so far away, I'd be sailing down to see your guy in Elberta...as it is, ALBERTA is probably closer to me :-(

Considering the prices of new fuel pump, thermostat, mixing elbow & motor mounts, that price seems very fair.

Now, tell us again why you want to sell your boat???