Tips or Suggestions for Mounting Tiller Pilot

[Ward H]

Just bought a Raymarine ST2000 tiller pilot.
Spent about an hour measuring, remeasuring, second guessing, etc yesterday and decided to give it some more thought before drilling holes.

Hardest part is measuring the 18" from the tiller pivot point and translating that to the swivel point which needs to be dropped 6.5" so the TP is level when mounted on the bench seat. Then the point to drill the hole for the stationary end which needs to be 90 degrees from mid rudder position.

The manual says these two measurements are critical. Hard to measure on a boat bouncing around in the slip.

Going back later this week to double check the measurements and start drilling.

Any words of wisdom from those that have gone before?

 

[justsomeguy]

Just bought a Raymarine ST2000 tiller pilot.
Spent about an hour measuring, remeasuring, second guessing, etc yesterday and decided to give it some more thought before drilling holes.

Hardest part is measuring the 18" from the tiller pivot point and translating that to the swivel point which needs to be dropped 6.5" so the TP is level when mounted on the bench seat. Then the point to drill the hole for the stationary end which needs to be 90 degrees from mid rudder position.

I worried a lot, too.
"Close enough" will work for both. FWIW, a hair under 90 degrees seems optimal when siting the stationary end, so err to there.

I had to return a ram mounting bracket to get the unit close enough to level. I was one inch off in my estimation of offset distance.

The manual says these two measurements are critical. Hard to measure on a boat bouncing around in the slip.

Going back later this week to double check the measurements and start drilling.

Any words of wisdom from those that have gone before?

Wisdom? No.

http://tomeshew.wordpress.com/2013/02/25/tiller-pilot-installation/

 

[Chris Patterson]

I wouldn't take into account anything raymarine says. Idiots. No, it is not critical. It may steer a tad faster or slower depending on which side of 18" you end up with. And pretty close to 90 deg. will work fine. Don't sweat the detail.

 

[Joe]

As you say, the boat bounces around a lot.... as Chris says.. it ain't that critical... So I wouldn't get overly stressed or anal about this.

There are many mounting alternatives... a removable bracket on the coaming to lower the entire unit if the tiller is lower, or the distance too great. There are brackets to allow the arm to connect to bottom side of the tiller if it's too high...

Submitting a picture might get some more creative responses. On my boat, the previous owner had inserted some extensions into the arm.. mounted the unit directly on the coaming.. there's quite a reach (more than Ray would recommend). But this 20+ year old Autohelm has worked flawlessly.

Remember that once the unit is installed it will go through a calibration sequence that adjusts for your imperfections.

Finally... once you get it operating, you'll be STOKED! You'll ask "Why did I wait so long?"

 

[Ward H]

Thought about taking a photo, then forgot so I went through my photo history and found two which might give you an idea of what I have to work with.

I'm mounting the tiller pilot stationary end on the port side fuel locker cover. To keep the tiller pilot level I need to drop the swing pin about 6 1/2" below the tiller. I bought a 5" drop bracket and I am playing with two 1 1/2" long 1 1/4" dia. wooden dowels to lower it the additional 1 1/2".

I could mount it on the combing and use an extension but I thought it would be more out of the way in the lower position.

Also thought about lowering the tiller stop so the tiller is lower but we like that it clears our knees at the current height. Might still do that if needed.

Now I have written this a few times I might go back and look at the combing position. Need to measure what size extension I would need and figure out how to get a backing plate up there.

 

[Chris Patterson]

I put one on one time with nine inches of extension. A four and a five to be accurate, in utter defiance of what Ray says. Little else they have to say is right, so I had no reason to think that they knew what they were talking about in regards to this. Well, I was right, and, well, you know. The biggest thing is is to try and keep it level for the internal flux gate compass. However.......when the boat is heeled, that equation is moot also. So go figure..

And yeah, Joe is dead on. A.P.'s are worth their weight in gold. I will NOT move a boat without a functioning autopilot. Period. This is not negotiable.

 

[Erieau]

Hey Ward, do you have a straight or curved tiller?
I'm going to the boat tomorrow and can post some pics if you want.
In the meantime, my profile pic shows "Tilley" in action. Note there's a drop-bracket below my straight tiller that lowers the ram-arm attachment point about three inches so that the TP is level.
Tilley is the hardest-working member of my crew.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

I mounted one on top the coaming. Had to add a six inch extension to the ram. Never been in the way at all, because when the pilot is driving, there's no need to be back there.

And I totally agree with Chris- don't leave home (dock) without one. Worth their weight for sure.

Just one example-

Single hand. Anchored, in a spot with a current, and shallows astern. How to get the anchor up?? Answer- lock in the TP, stick the engine in gear idling forward, and let the TP take you out, while you go haul the anchor on deck

 

[Ward H]

Hi Joe,
Straight tiller. When I got the boat the tiller rubbed on the transom. I rebuilt the part of the rudder that holds the tiller up. Maybe I got it to high?

Appreciate any photos.

 

[MrBill_FLL]

I have a tp10 on a 26'd macgregor. I didn't follow the recommendations and have no regrets. but I also have a balanced rudder and little weather helm.

I wanted to mount the TP higher than the tiller and further aft than recommended. the reason for higher is it puts a little weight on the pin, and won't let go or go swimming as easy. (especially when I open the Lazerette).

The further back part was determined by the boat design, and I wanted access to the TP and the engine (port).

here's my setup'




the mount is brass pipe thru bolted (3 bolts), and epoxied cup. wrapped w/ pvc. In the unused hole I threaded a bungy that keeps the TP seated.


-ymmv.

 

[Joe]

Hi Joe,
Straight tiller. When I got the boat the tiller rubbed on the transom. I rebuilt the part of the rudder that holds the tiller up. Maybe I got it to high?

Appreciate any photos.

I'm looking at your picture and I'd just mount it on the coaming... buy a rod extension piece.. put the tiller pin about halfway between rudder head and tiller extension. You'll only have to drill one hole for the coaming socket... and another for the power plug.

As TSBB2 mentioned... it will not be in the way.... besides, the mounting height won't change that even if it were an issue.

 

[Erieau]

Okay Ward, here are my measurements:

From the edge of cockpit seat back to pinhole:


From back of seat against transom forward to pinhole (note that transom is not "square", so tape is running parallel to seat-front):


Tape-end against rudder head, to centre of tiller pin:


Drop plate (sold by Raymarine) from top of drop plate up to bottom surface of tiller:


Tilley as mounted (note custom monogrammed sun hat I sewed for him from a scrap of sunbrella):

 

[Ward H]

Well, I measured the boat again. If I mount the stationary end to the combing, I will need 10" or 11" of extension.
Or I can follow Joe V's way to do it.

Looks like the choices are to extend the push rod longer than recommended, 11", for the combing or extend the drop longer than recommended, 1 1/2", and put on cockpit seat.

I am leaning towards the 11" extension and putting it on the combing. That area is already well inforced. It just seems like extending a push pull rod will be better than extending the drop of the tiller, which might induce some twist.

Still open to ideas though.

 

[Erieau]

I've never seen twist on the tiller. I relax on the starboard cockpit seat with my left hand resting on Tilley's controls and just sail on.
Your boat, your choice (TM).

 

[Stu Jackson]

Well, I measured the boat again. If I mount the stationary end to the combing, I will need 10" or 11" of extension.
Or I can follow Joe V's way to do it.

Looks like the choices are to extend the push rod longer than recommended, 11", for the combing or extend the drop longer than recommended, 1 1/2", and put on cockpit seat.

I am leaning towards the 11" extension and putting it on the combing. That area is already well inforced. It just seems like extending a push pull rod will be better than extending the drop of the tiller, which might induce some twist.

Still open to ideas though.

Ward,

What I did was to avoid the extensions was to put a bracket BELOW the tiller so I could mount it on a seat, reinforced it below with a piece of plywood. Worked great for 12 years. Also avoided the pin on the top of the tiller. Avoid extensions if you can.

 

[shnool]

Eh, 90, 80, 110, whatever works... "Otto" the autopilot steers regardless.

FYI, if you drop the tiller pilot repeatedly as I have tendency to pop it off the tiller and it swings wildly backward into the backrest.. eventually the silly plastic double-gimbal "fluxgate compass" holder breaks... then it no longer knows what direction you are going... the solution is a $99 part shipped from the UK, that is the plastic holder AND the fluxgate compass. Ask me how I know

Raymarine might be a bit particular on their install location for no reason, but the product itself is priceless.

 

[Ward H]

Well, I decided to do an install like Joe V did, since he has the same boat as I.
I even used some of his measurements.
I was able to lower the tiller a bit so now I only need a 3/4" or 1/2" spacer to lower the under tiller bracket to get the autopilot close to level.
Next time at the boat I will play with tiller pin placement as 18" does not seem give it much throw side to side. 16" in front of the rudder pivot point looks better.
I hope to clamp the bracket to the tiller and give it a test drive before drilling the mounting holes in the tiller. That or at least pay more attention to how much I move the end of the tiller so I can better gauge the throw needed by the autopilot.