Tips for Hand Crank Starting A Diesel?

[rardiH36]

An item on my emergency preparedness list is some practice at hand-crank starting the diesel. (But I first need to remove/modify a piece of trim molding that prevents a clean 360-degree rotation of the hand crank. An example of beauty-before-function factory design!)

I've seen the hand crank instructions in the Yanmar manual but thought to also ask for any tips/tricks and safety considerations from those that have actually started their engine by hand cranking.

My 1980 Hunter 36 has a Yanmar 2-cyl engine (2QM20H).

Thanks for comments.

regards,
rardi

 

[Roger Long]

I have exactly the same engine from a boat of the same year. (You're a lucky man to have that engine, one of the best small marine diesels ever built.) Not only that, when I went to try hand starting my engine, I discovered that the handle wouldn't even begin to clear the structure of the galley counter the engine is under. It has clearly never been hand started.

I've inquired about hand starting these engines and responses vary. Some say you can do it, barely. Some say, forget it. I did learn that they have been started by taping together all the flashlight batteries on the boat. I can believe this in view of how easily my engine starts, even first thing in the spring.

I opted to just remove the hand start mechanism from my engine. This opens up the access to the engine mounted fuel filter and other things considerably. I figure the engine is hard enough to hand start that I don't want to be distracted by being tempted to try in in an emergency. Better to turn attention directly to sails or anchors.

The drill for dead batteries is to sail into a port and go ashore in a dinghy to buy a 40 buck auto battery. I'm also going to buy one of those portable battery, emergency light units. If they will start a car, they ought to get this engine going.

That doesn't cover starter or other electrical problems. However, after removing the hand start gear, I found that the lower sprocket has a hex nut holding it on. All that the big kludge of starting gear does is increase the cranking speed and move the crank up to what would be a more convienient position in many vessels. I'm going to try getting a socket that fits this nut welded to a long shaft that runs out into the cabin where there is room for a crank with longer throw. The sprocket doesn't turn when the engine is running so, as long as it doesn't kick back, there should be no hazard when the engine starts.

Whatever way you hand start it, it will be a two person operation because you have to pull both compression releases, get the engine turning, and then let the levers go. The only way I can see to do this single handed is to run cables from them to some kind of release you can kick with your foot as you crank.

You can see the hand starter system sproket just to the left if you scroll down to the engine room picture on this page:

http://home.roadrunner.com/~rlma/StriderFuelSystem.htm

BTW replacing the engine mounted fuel filter element on that engine is hard because of insufficient clearance. It's fairly simple to make a plate that offsets the filter about 1/4" outboard and 1/2" up and there is enough slack in the tubing lines to do so. This eliminates the need to unbolt the filter and flex the lines to get the bowl off, something you really don't want to do when rolling around underway and needing the engine in a hurry.

Put in a fuel system like that shown on the rest of the page and you'll probably never have to change that filter except once in the spring anyway though.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Understanding belts, suspenders AND drawstrings

but why would you ever need to do that if, as Roger says, the engine is so dependable? Invest in a reliable reserve battery bank and use the key to start the engine, not your knuckles.

 

[garylinger]

Re: Understanding belts, suspenders AND drawstrings

I tried to hand crank start my 2QM15 just to see if I could do it (practice for an 'emergency') and I quickly came to realize that, unless there is a secret that I couldn't figure out, it is impossible to do! Access in my S2 9.2C is awkward and does not allow me to get the position I need to be able to adequately get rotation past the compression cycle.

 

[Rick]

Touche Stu, sounds like nothing that people in the over 40 club should be trying to do! Practice anchoring, heaving a line, anything but trying to handcrank your iron genny

Cheers

 

[rardiH36]

Hand Crank Starting

Stu -- Belts (for pants and engines) and drawstrings (for sweat pants and utility bags on the boat) I have ... but never owned suspenders (except for a halyard analogy). Appreciate the effort to keep me grounded with definitely the more practical solution. Although not an elegant setup, I have a spare battery on board that I keep topped up with a small solar panel. And jumper cables if I need to use it. But guess I’m looking at manual starting also as a challenge. Yanmar fitted the engine with an auxiliary means of starting. Hunter outfitted the boat with the handle. Got the equipment. Got the urge to crank.

Roger - Appreciate your thoughts/observations. Also … very clean and detailed work you have done on your boat.

Yes, the engine is a quick starter. Move the throttle lever forward a bit and then usually just a quick flick of the starter key brings the engine to life immediately. The PO fitted the fuel line with an electronic fuel pump which I have found does promote quicker starting compared to just the mechanical pump on the engine.

I had already noted that the engine is equipped with a bracket for running a decompression open/close cable for remote operation. For solo hand crank starting, I was anticipating the need to install and terminate the cable right next to the hand crank area. But by your investigation that success at hand crank starting might be elusive, I think that I will first try by asking a companion to hold open the decompression lever and then release when I get the rotations up. The cockpit floor forward of the helm on my boat is actually a large hatch that when removed allows wonderful engine access. The decompression levers right on top are in easy and safe reach. Once I take off the offending piece of molding/trim, the crank area is totally clear. I can stand and get good speed and leverage on the handle.

regards,
rardi

 

[Ed Schenck]

Years ago when this topic was discussed someone had pictures. They had modified the hand crank so that it went through a hole in the steps. That hole served as a bearing surface somehow. So he had plenty of clearance to crank. Not sure how he solved the decompression lever issue. For sure you won't crank it without releasing the compression. My H37C had that engine too. I wonder if I gave the new owner the hand crank?

To clarify: the owner of the 2QM20, not the boat! In fact I leave in the morning for the eleven hour drive to go and see Ladylove. And to start the provisioning for a Jan. 17 departure.

 

[John Nantz]

Watch out for your thumb

The proper procedure for hand cranking a gas engine is to NOT have the thumb over the handle, it should be just like the other fingers around the handle. The reason for this, on a gas engine, is if it kicks back you don't get the thumb broken. And the palm of the hand shouldn't be too far over on the handle, either.

Similar to kick starting a motorcycle, never do it such that your leg ends up straight - a kick-back could throw you over the handlebars.

The Yanmar was originally a tractor engine and on tractors the access for the hand crank would be at a proper height. In a boat it will be down low. A way to get the handle up higher would be to make an extension for it.

 

[All U Get]

Hi Rardi,
From my experience with a rather large gas engine there were two ways of getting hurt while cranking. If the handle gets loose it can strike body parts or travel amazing distances. Secondly by wraping your thumb around the handle the kick back can dislocate the thumb in a most painful way.
All U Get
John's comment is right on.

 

[Richard Bryer]

But- has ANYONE actually started their diesel by handcranking?

 

[erikwhansen]

interested in the answer

But- has ANYONE actually started their diesel by handcranking?

i, too, am interested in the answer (my boat has a volvo penta 13hp diesel). being stuck some place with fuel and no ability to burn it in the event of a battery or starter failure would just be too much. given the paucity of information about this issue in the cruising forums, though, apparently starters rarely fail and sailors keep reserve batteries ready.

 

[Rick D]

Only A Single

But- has ANYONE actually started their diesel by handcranking?

I did hand-start a single Yanmar in my O'Day. Just to see if I could. My 3GM had a crank, but I could never get it to go.

I did have 1950 MG with a hand crank that I used to show off to my friends sometimes. The note about never wrapping your thumb around the crank is wise advice!

 

[Prime Time]

?impossible?

I have a yanmar 1gm. Hand crank has full clearance. Decompression lever in easy reach. I've tried but it just doesn't seem possible. Maybe if one squirted in some ether?

 

[Roger Long]

Maybe if one squirted in some ether?

That is almost guaranteed to make it pre-ignite and kick back, breaking your thumb or arm. If you put enough ether in, the diesel will try to run and destroy itself pre-igniting and firing one cylinder against the other.

I've heard that WD-40 works because it has a higher ignition point but I wouldn't spray anything in my diesel. They are just so inconvientient to pull out and replace

 

[Brian M H23]

Starting fluids do have their place, though, in this situation. A tiny squirt can help get the engine spinning when the batteries are low and just can't get it to turn over fast enough. Also, for an old engine, whatever little damage you might cause by (oh no!) having a little explosion in the combustion chamber has got to be better than cranking and crranking and cranking and...

which isn't to say that too much isn't bad..it is. But it can be a valuable tool, so bring it along.

 

[okawbow]

My YSE8 yanmar has a chain drive gear for hand cranking. It cannot kick backwards. I have started the diesel with a hand crank both with, and without using the de-compression lever. It actually starts faster without using the de-compression. Just slowly crank just past the compression stroke, and then give it everything you have, and it starts on 1 revolution usually. My motor installation in a 1976 Bristol 24 allows a full turn of the crank, without busting knuckles on anything. I'm 55 and not afraid to hand start. However, I carry an old starter that has a battery disconnect switch wired in, that allows it to be wired directly to a battery. I can start the engine using that battery switch if the electrics are burned out. I also have an extra battery.

 

[g meyer]

handcrank

in many tries at different times i've spun my 1gm as fast as i could. when i released the
decompression lever the engine always stopped cold. i know that i cannot start my engine manually, even on a hot summer day.

 

[NotCook]

Spring starter

We have a spring starter on our Perkins 6-135 diesel. I haven't tried to use it yet, but it is on the list for this spring. It is not easy to get at, but from reading the manual, looks relatively fool proof. you wind it up with a ratchet, then flip the lever and let it spin the engine. The engine starts quickly (when there is no air in the fuel line!), so I would expect it to start on one spin. Got to love diesels!

 

[rardiH36]

Original Poster Update: Naysayers Have the Upper Hand on Hand Cranking Advise

Those that commented that I should look at other alternatives rather than hand-crank starting a diesel appear more correct than not. At least for my model of engine.

Today, I removed the restrictive piece of molding that was in the way, inserted the crank lever, and proceeded to the huff-and-puff stage. All to no avail. Not a hint from the engine that it wanted to start. I’m a reasonably physically strong person and the crank handle is in a good location for speed and leverage. Maybe a 300 pound bench presser could do it, but not a normal guy (or even a younger normal guy). The hand-crank mechanism on my engine has a one-way clutch, so kick-back safety didn’t seem it would be much of a problem.

Disengaging the compression lever did allow picking up good rotational speed. But as soon as the lever was released back into compression mode, the rotation would stop cold on the next compression. And there was no way to get enough speed against the compression resistance without releasing the lever.

I even tried to use my entire body weight via my leg/foot on the crank ala motorcycle style (without disengaging the compression). I was able to get the crankshaft over and past the next compression with good force. But still no success.

I couldn’t hand-crank start even after starting the engine normally (with the key and starter motor) and at letting it warm up for a while.

So unless there is a trick or two that nobody has yet ventured, the practical solution does seem to be is as suggested by the naysayers. Maintain a charged back-up starting battery. (And I guess at the first hint of trouble, correct anything amiss with starter relay or starter motor.)

Regards,
rardi

 

[nick8489]

I am amazed at these replies. Had a 3GM30 on my last boat. Push the decompression levers over, wind her up with the crank handle until enough momentum is developed in the flywheel and then flick over the decompression levers with a sweep of the fingers and bingo she will start no differently to the starter motor which is essentially performing the same function. Different matter if the boat designer had impeded acess for starter handle but this is nothing to do with starting the engine by hand. The hand start facility has been abandoned on the new 3YM30 which I believe is a backward step as a sure fire secondary starting facility when entering harbour gives greater peace of mind. I last used it when the battery cable had jumped off the terminal and I was only 100 metres from the harbour entrance.