I've given up on getting my raw water intake seacock to turn open. It appears as thought it's stuck in the off position. I've tried all sorts of lubricants and even used the hammer once or twice on it. I'm debating asking the yard to pull my boat out and leave it in the cradle (straps) for a couple of hours so that i can fix the problem. A. is this advisable - that is leaving the boat in the straps while you work underneath? Anyone think the yard will let me climb in the boat while she's in the straps? B. Any ideas how long the replacement project will take me? Is it a simple replace of a seacock or will I need to add epoxy between the core? Thanx for any help.
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Tony, yard policies in our area vary...
depending upon whether they are public or private. Private ones seem more flexible and will let you do most anything within reason. You should be able to do the job while the boat is on the travel lift straps. Two things to consider: 1. On our boat the seacock threads onto the through hull fitting. If the fitting is still in good condition you should be able to simply replace the frozen seacock. 2. If the fitting is shot you should be able to remove it carefully without damaging the hull area. I recommend that you use 3M5200 sealant when you install the new fitting. Others might disagree with my recommendation. No epoxy work should be necessary unless you damage the hull area trying to remove the old fitting. Good luck. Terry P.S. The travel lift straps can handle heavy boats, but it still makes me uncomfortable working beneath a several ton boat just waiting for one of the straps to give way.
depending upon whether they are public or private. Private ones seem more flexible and will let you do most anything within reason. You should be able to do the job while the boat is on the travel lift straps. Two things to consider: 1. On our boat the seacock threads onto the through hull fitting. If the fitting is still in good condition you should be able to simply replace the frozen seacock. 2. If the fitting is shot you should be able to remove it carefully without damaging the hull area. I recommend that you use 3M5200 sealant when you install the new fitting. Others might disagree with my recommendation. No epoxy work should be necessary unless you damage the hull area trying to remove the old fitting. Good luck. Terry P.S. The travel lift straps can handle heavy boats, but it still makes me uncomfortable working beneath a several ton boat just waiting for one of the straps to give way.
Seacock Maintenance
The yard I was in last month charges less for a 'one way' where the boat just hangs in the straps for an hour. Its a good idea for short jobs like changing the zincs. But I would not count on being able to change a seacock in an hour. Not that I know much about changing seacocks, but Murphy's Law pretty much guarantees you won't get it done that fast. If the seacock itself is frozen, then its not likely to come unscrewed from the through hull that easily, plus they are not in places that you will have hard time using that big pipe wrench that might be required. One thing to consider is that if that one seacock is frozen, you may have others that need work. They are supposed to be taken apart and greased every year or two when you haul out for painting. I just did that for all 11 of mine, which were all througfully positioned for maximum cramp factor to reach them. So if you opted for the round trip haulout and blocking, there would be plenty of useful work to occupy the time. I agree with Terry about the 5200 - this seems like the classic 5200 use. In addition there is a fast-set version that you will certainly need. BTW - you don't mention what kind of seacock you are fighting with - but the tapered plug type may benefit from a solid wack with a hammer on the narrow end of the plug to loosen it, perhaps with a block of wood over the the nut for protection. If it is the rubber plug kind, I assume you have already loosened up the secondary screw that compresses the rubber.
The yard I was in last month charges less for a 'one way' where the boat just hangs in the straps for an hour. Its a good idea for short jobs like changing the zincs. But I would not count on being able to change a seacock in an hour. Not that I know much about changing seacocks, but Murphy's Law pretty much guarantees you won't get it done that fast. If the seacock itself is frozen, then its not likely to come unscrewed from the through hull that easily, plus they are not in places that you will have hard time using that big pipe wrench that might be required. One thing to consider is that if that one seacock is frozen, you may have others that need work. They are supposed to be taken apart and greased every year or two when you haul out for painting. I just did that for all 11 of mine, which were all througfully positioned for maximum cramp factor to reach them. So if you opted for the round trip haulout and blocking, there would be plenty of useful work to occupy the time. I agree with Terry about the 5200 - this seems like the classic 5200 use. In addition there is a fast-set version that you will certainly need. BTW - you don't mention what kind of seacock you are fighting with - but the tapered plug type may benefit from a solid wack with a hammer on the narrow end of the plug to loosen it, perhaps with a block of wood over the the nut for protection. If it is the rubber plug kind, I assume you have already loosened up the secondary screw that compresses the rubber.
Do it in the water
Tony, it is a simple job. More than likely your old valve has corroded in the closed position. You can secure a replacement at the local hardware store. I would use a quarter turn brass and stainless valve in lieu of the gate valve that most older boats are equipped with. To change the old one loosen the clamp at the old valve and pull the hose off. Good time to check the condition of the hose and replace if necessary. Then as Taylor said just unscrew the old valve from the thru hull. Some water will get in but you can screw the new valve on quickly enough that it will not be a flooding issue. Just for your peace of mind you could have a plug handy. Unlike Taylor's advice to use a mastic to seal the threads, I would use plumbing tape to secure any leaks and it would allow you to remove the valve in the future if you have need to again. I have replaced two of the three seacocks on my boat in this same way. It will also save you the haul fee. Good luck and happy sailing.
Tony, it is a simple job. More than likely your old valve has corroded in the closed position. You can secure a replacement at the local hardware store. I would use a quarter turn brass and stainless valve in lieu of the gate valve that most older boats are equipped with. To change the old one loosen the clamp at the old valve and pull the hose off. Good time to check the condition of the hose and replace if necessary. Then as Taylor said just unscrew the old valve from the thru hull. Some water will get in but you can screw the new valve on quickly enough that it will not be a flooding issue. Just for your peace of mind you could have a plug handy. Unlike Taylor's advice to use a mastic to seal the threads, I would use plumbing tape to secure any leaks and it would allow you to remove the valve in the future if you have need to again. I have replaced two of the three seacocks on my boat in this same way. It will also save you the haul fee. Good luck and happy sailing.
Doing it in the water...
is certainly worth considering. If you have good access and the parts are in reasonable shape then it is a simple routine job like cleaning a knotmeter impeller. If anything goes wrong though (break the throughhull stem, crossthread the seacock, etc.) you have a real serious problem. If the raw water seacock is frozen shut how are you going to get to the haulout without running the engine? Sail the thing?
is certainly worth considering. If you have good access and the parts are in reasonable shape then it is a simple routine job like cleaning a knotmeter impeller. If anything goes wrong though (break the throughhull stem, crossthread the seacock, etc.) you have a real serious problem. If the raw water seacock is frozen shut how are you going to get to the haulout without running the engine? Sail the thing?
intake valve
the raw water seacock is for the head. Hence, I can sail. I use a bucket of water to flush, but this is becoming cumbersome. I dont know if I would have enough courage to do this in the water. Hmm - has anyone ever done this?
the raw water seacock is for the head. Hence, I can sail. I use a bucket of water to flush, but this is becoming cumbersome. I dont know if I would have enough courage to do this in the water. Hmm - has anyone ever done this?
Tony I was in your shoes last month
but it was the head discharge shut off valve, the 1.5 inch sucker. the thru hull fitting looked fine but the low spot on the 20 year old gate valve body was dripping and corroded. I was going to haul then I called a dive service to see if they would do a "standby", like maybe stuff a plug in from the outside. Diver said he could do one better. He showed up with a plastic dome with a gasket on the rim. He jumped in and held the dome thing against the hull, banged on the hull telling me to remove the value. A cup of water came in before the dome sealed itself to the hull by water pressure. I had the new valve ready with water proof grease on the treads and screwed it on. Voila! Diver charged the minimum one hour service call about $150. This was less than a haul and hang yard charge. Once he was out of the water I asked him what if all hell broke loose and the thru hull fitting failed., Well, he said the dome thing was fabricated sufficiently deep or tall, that you could bang the thrull hull fitting out of the boat and into the dome, without the dome coming off the hull and he had some thru hull parts in his truck.
but it was the head discharge shut off valve, the 1.5 inch sucker. the thru hull fitting looked fine but the low spot on the 20 year old gate valve body was dripping and corroded. I was going to haul then I called a dive service to see if they would do a "standby", like maybe stuff a plug in from the outside. Diver said he could do one better. He showed up with a plastic dome with a gasket on the rim. He jumped in and held the dome thing against the hull, banged on the hull telling me to remove the value. A cup of water came in before the dome sealed itself to the hull by water pressure. I had the new valve ready with water proof grease on the treads and screwed it on. Voila! Diver charged the minimum one hour service call about $150. This was less than a haul and hang yard charge. Once he was out of the water I asked him what if all hell broke loose and the thru hull fitting failed., Well, he said the dome thing was fabricated sufficiently deep or tall, that you could bang the thrull hull fitting out of the boat and into the dome, without the dome coming off the hull and he had some thru hull parts in his truck.
Done that on in the water too!
The raw water for the head is the other one that I did. Same procedure. I guess we have to be a little more daring where I sail because there are no travel lifts, hoists or other methods of getting our boats out of the water. There are two trailers large enough to handle most of the boats but they are hard to get scheduled. The closest dealer with a trailor is about 175 miles away and takes months to get to do anything. Tony, there really isn't a whole lot to changing it out as outlined in my first post.
The raw water for the head is the other one that I did. Same procedure. I guess we have to be a little more daring where I sail because there are no travel lifts, hoists or other methods of getting our boats out of the water. There are two trailers large enough to handle most of the boats but they are hard to get scheduled. The closest dealer with a trailor is about 175 miles away and takes months to get to do anything. Tony, there really isn't a whole lot to changing it out as outlined in my first post.
Tony
the water doesn't gush in like crazy. You have the new valve ready with teflon tape on the threads and a tapered plug "just in case:. You should have a plug next to each thru hull anyway. As you remove the old one the water will start to flow and then will come in for less than a second as you put the new one in place and start to thread it on. Just don't rush and get the threads crossed or whatever. Good luck.
the water doesn't gush in like crazy. You have the new valve ready with teflon tape on the threads and a tapered plug "just in case:. You should have a plug next to each thru hull anyway. As you remove the old one the water will start to flow and then will come in for less than a second as you put the new one in place and start to thread it on. Just don't rush and get the threads crossed or whatever. Good luck.
Seacock or thrughhull and ball valve
Tony you are saying seacock but the discussion sounds like you have a through hull screwed to a ball valve. Having used both, I'd say the a through hull and ball valve arrangment could have the ball valve repleced at sea. A seacock however has screws that come out from the outside of the boat! Or are you talking about disasembling a seacock?
Tony you are saying seacock but the discussion sounds like you have a through hull screwed to a ball valve. Having used both, I'd say the a through hull and ball valve arrangment could have the ball valve repleced at sea. A seacock however has screws that come out from the outside of the boat! Or are you talking about disasembling a seacock?
Plugs
Could someone please explain what the seacock plugs are made of and a general explanation of what they are and how to use them.
Could someone please explain what the seacock plugs are made of and a general explanation of what they are and how to use them.
Dan, they are tapered wooden dowls
sort of like a big golf tee, around 4 to 6 inches long, that can be jamed, hammered, into the pipe end. Supposedly, the wood will swell, assiting in keeping the pipe plugged.
sort of like a big golf tee, around 4 to 6 inches long, that can be jamed, hammered, into the pipe end. Supposedly, the wood will swell, assiting in keeping the pipe plugged.
Thru hull valves
Last year at commissioning, the gate valve started leaking when it was opened. Since this was a new boat for me, I was very concerned. The yard owner looked at it and removed the gate valve and inserted the wooden plug. Got a new ball valve at H-D removed the plug and inserted the new valve. Travel time was more than the replacement time. This past winter, I replaced the other gate valves. One had to cut off because it was frozen to the through hull. The handle would not pass by the fiberglass wall. In the process, I twisted the through hull bedding compund. Not wnating to test the validity of the seal, I removed/rebedded the through hull, and inserted a new ball valve. The handle had to be removed in order to twist it on the through hull. An example of both extremes. Use ball valves in place of gate valves.
Last year at commissioning, the gate valve started leaking when it was opened. Since this was a new boat for me, I was very concerned. The yard owner looked at it and removed the gate valve and inserted the wooden plug. Got a new ball valve at H-D removed the plug and inserted the new valve. Travel time was more than the replacement time. This past winter, I replaced the other gate valves. One had to cut off because it was frozen to the through hull. The handle would not pass by the fiberglass wall. In the process, I twisted the through hull bedding compund. Not wnating to test the validity of the seal, I removed/rebedded the through hull, and inserted a new ball valve. The handle had to be removed in order to twist it on the through hull. An example of both extremes. Use ball valves in place of gate valves.
I think my yard charges the same for a quick haul
whether its one one hour or one day -- I think anything under 3 days is a quick haul. So I would have them do a quick block of the boat. It only takes them 10 minutes to get a few stands and throw a few wood blocks under BTW I am at a Brewers www.byy.com
whether its one one hour or one day -- I think anything under 3 days is a quick haul. So I would have them do a quick block of the boat. It only takes them 10 minutes to get a few stands and throw a few wood blocks under BTW I am at a Brewers www.byy.com
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