tillers and such

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tj edwards

hey guys, I have a '84 37 cutter and I have a couple of questions. I'm in the process of replacing the cockpit sole. The wood underlayment has rotted out, I've cut off the top layer of glass and cleaned the wood out from the companionway to the steering station. I'm thinking about removing the steering station, lifting up the top layer of fiberglass there and removing that rot, too. If I can't get the steering station back in place has anyone adapted the aft tiller post (hidden in the aft coaming) as permanent? The drain on my ice box is plugged. I've used a long plastic tie, a coat hanger, a plunger and clorox to free the the clog to no avail. Any other ideas? Has anyone moved the waste holding tank to the empty locker just in front of the galley on the starboard side? Can a larger holding tank be put in there? Does anyone have the new PSS with the nipple on the gland that requires a tube to be run vertical to two feet above the waterline? Where did you run the tube so you could check it, but it was out of the way? Thanks for your help ... tj
 
May 6, 2004
916
Hunter 37C Seattle
Hey TJ

I have same boat. Not sure about the reference to the locker in front of starboard galley. If you mean the locker under the berth on galley side, I have a water tank in that space. I have purposly plugged by ice box drain, keeps it cooler. If there is excessive fluid there, I use a hand bilge pump and pump out into sink, so the stuff stays out of bilge, where it will drain if you fix your "problem". No experience on making the temp tiller the permanent one.
 
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Benny

TJ , I'd hate to be your doctor.

I think a 37 ft cutter would be a handful to steer with a tiller. As for the icebox, blow compressed air down the drain hole or drill a new hole. As far as the holding tank and the galley, why? On the PSS you don't need the tube.
 
Jan 22, 2008
275
Hunter 33_77-83 Lake Lanier GA
Hey TJ

Hey, I will pray for you tonight. I did the cockpit sole job on my 33 about 6-7 years ago, man, what a job it is. At lease you are breathing more fresh air doing it the right way, I did mine from underneath. So, if anyone will be needing a Dr., I'll prob. be the one. Be sure when you replace your plywood to use marine grade or at least out-door grade wood. Leave no air pockets to suck more moisture in and when it comes to refitting the pedestal, be sure to close and finish the raw edges of the large hole where the pedestal mounts. I believe that is where most of the water intrusion takes place. I also epoxied the bolt holes for the pedestal to seal them from water as well. Good luck, you'll love having a solid cockpit sole. David Underwood
 
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tj

cockpit sole

David, I can't imagine doing it from the bottom! How did you get the material to stick to the upper surface what with gravity and all? Actually ... it's not that bad (of course 3 or 4 beers help immeasurably). The guy next to me is a rigger and he’s giving me some good direction on how to do the job. I'm doing in two parts. The area between the port and starboard lazeretes first and then the steering pedestal to the aft lazeretes. I've completed the first part. I cut out the top plate of the cockpit sole using a circular saw and then a dremel for the tight spots. The wood was so rotten and wet, the plate just lifted off. With about two hours of scrapping the sole and the plate were clean and ready for replacement. I went to local fiberglass store and bought some laminating resin along with the fiberglass and a 2x4 sheet 1/2" foam that has been sliced in 1" squares and glued to a backing mat. It is stronger than wood (when soaked with resin) and it never rots ... ever). I made a slurry mixing minced up strands of fiberglass and resin. I slopped it into the crevices around the edges and then forced a 3" wide piece of the foam mat into the crevice, forcing the slurry it to squish around the top and bottom of the foam (which I'm told makes a structurally sound waterproof bond). After I got that done all the way around the edges, I had like a little frame. On the inside of my frame I poured the slurry and smeared it around; place some fiberglass mat on top of that; more resin; then the my foam coring (which I had pre cut to fit); then more slurry (on top of the foam); then fiberglass mat; then more resin and resin on the underside of the plate and then slapped that puppy down. I put some tool bags, an gallon antifreeze jug and the fiberglass can on the plate as weight to hold it in place. After all that, the plate is still a little misaligned, but I've been instructed to buy some vinyl ester heavy putty to fare that out. Still it's nice and stiff now ... jumped up and down on it. Today I took off the steering pedestal (I need to get the base welded as it's cracked, hence my question about the tiller) popped the back plate and repeated all the scraping. I noticed the pedestal is raised a little bit (and of course, the wood beneath is soaked and rotten too). I don't know what I'm going to do about that (supporting the raised area). I'll have to ask the rigger. After this, it’s onto the head … whoopee!!
 
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