Tiller Varnish
- Thread starter catalanc
- Start date
I live on the Texas coast. Today was 96 degrees. I use Z-Spar 2015, and COVER the tiller when not in use.
Actually I have sunbrella covers over all the brightwork I can possibly cover. Note the covers on hand rails and tiller
Actually I have sunbrella covers over all the brightwork I can possibly cover. Note the covers on hand rails and tiller
Attachments
I refinished mine recently and used Minwax Helmsman exterior spar polyurethane, I also keep it covered (most of the time) when not in use. Almost a year on it now with no noticeable deterioration.
The tiller is new and the wood is raw so here is what I was planning, based on a "youtube" search.
1. Minwax wood conditioner (1 application)
2. Minwax clear stain (2 applications, separated by 6 hours)
3. Minwax Helmsman spar urethane; 4 coats, separated by 24 hours, 220 grit sand in between.
I already have a cover from the old tiller so should last.
cec
1. Minwax wood conditioner (1 application)
2. Minwax clear stain (2 applications, separated by 6 hours)
3. Minwax Helmsman spar urethane; 4 coats, separated by 24 hours, 220 grit sand in between.
I already have a cover from the old tiller so should last.
cec
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,009
Carlos. Sounds like a reasonable plan. If you leave the tiller exposed to the environment you will be doing annual touch-up to keep the look and feel nice. Just comes with the territory. A cover will help to prolong the touch-up. Exposed wood with just about any treatment will require maintenance. (think house siding).
I used the Minwax Helmsman on some bright work and it lasted a season. It eventually flaked off the teak. Since I was redoing the woodwork every years I went with a rag teak oil wipe on method. Worked great. A wash down each year and a two application oil wipe on. Good for another year.
Your wood is not as dense so the varnish is a better idea. I have heard folks using a clear epoxy resin then the varnish on top (UV protection from the Varnish). No experience on my boats.
I used the Minwax Helmsman on some bright work and it lasted a season. It eventually flaked off the teak. Since I was redoing the woodwork every years I went with a rag teak oil wipe on method. Worked great. A wash down each year and a two application oil wipe on. Good for another year.
Your wood is not as dense so the varnish is a better idea. I have heard folks using a clear epoxy resin then the varnish on top (UV protection from the Varnish). No experience on my boats.
For a varnish finish, its going to require time and effort. I have been a fan of epifanes products. Usually about 5 coats over bare wood. Clear Wood finish starting 50% thinned for the first coat, and 25% thinned for coats 2-4 using a scotchbrite pad between each coat and wiped with alcohol. The final coat is Matte Wood finish. The matte finish serves as somewhat of a UV protectant.
The tiller is vulnerable no matter what and its going to get nicked and bruised.
Its going to require routine maintenance. Sunbrella cover is still a good idea.
The tiller is vulnerable no matter what and its going to get nicked and bruised.
Its going to require routine maintenance. Sunbrella cover is still a good idea.
Got back from Bodega Bay yesterday. Stu Jackson stayed a day with us and then on North. It was great to meet and visit!
I had a major tiller failure while on the hard. Put too much weight on that beautiful but brittle unit and it broke into 5 pieces! Since I was taught in college about various materials to include wood: I decided to make my own tiller from douglas fir. The reason is doug fir is fibrous rather than cellular like most hardwood. Its linear strength exceeds oak and is flexible. Time will tell if I am right. Tried hard finish and do not like it so will go oil and use its cover. Chief
I had a major tiller failure while on the hard. Put too much weight on that beautiful but brittle unit and it broke into 5 pieces! Since I was taught in college about various materials to include wood: I decided to make my own tiller from douglas fir. The reason is doug fir is fibrous rather than cellular like most hardwood. Its linear strength exceeds oak and is flexible. Time will tell if I am right. Tried hard finish and do not like it so will go oil and use its cover. Chief
There's more than one way to varnish a cat. Er, ummm...
I have taken to using Le Tonkinois Nr. 1. It's the easiest to go on I've found, because it's just oils and resin, no solvents to evaporate off. Keeps an easy wet edge. I use foam brushes, because a) I can't clean a badger hair brush to prevent minuscule flecks of dried varnish contaminating new project no matter how much mineral spirits I clean them with and b) I feel I can control the thickness of the layer better with foam brushes, which is super important with non-level surfaces and preventing INEVITABLE drips. Hell, I can even get drips on level, flat surfaces!
Remember, the number of coats of varnish required to do the job is n+1. You never get to a final coat, always a next-to-last coat. I say a minimum of 8, 12 is better. Usually I'm going out of my mind at 8, so if the flaws in coat 8 are ok, I stop there. But often on to 9 or 10. Generally I can do 1 coat a day, for 2 or 3 coats, then let it set an extra day or two to move on to the next coat. Spoke with the guy at www.tarsmell.com, and he doesn't see a need to sand between coats. In order to fix the dust or hair issues, I often wet sand between coats when necessary.
You should sand very lightly and add 1-2 coats per year. Keeping it covered when not in use is the best thing you can do.
I have taken to using Le Tonkinois Nr. 1. It's the easiest to go on I've found, because it's just oils and resin, no solvents to evaporate off. Keeps an easy wet edge. I use foam brushes, because a) I can't clean a badger hair brush to prevent minuscule flecks of dried varnish contaminating new project no matter how much mineral spirits I clean them with and b) I feel I can control the thickness of the layer better with foam brushes, which is super important with non-level surfaces and preventing INEVITABLE drips. Hell, I can even get drips on level, flat surfaces!
Remember, the number of coats of varnish required to do the job is n+1. You never get to a final coat, always a next-to-last coat. I say a minimum of 8, 12 is better. Usually I'm going out of my mind at 8, so if the flaws in coat 8 are ok, I stop there. But often on to 9 or 10. Generally I can do 1 coat a day, for 2 or 3 coats, then let it set an extra day or two to move on to the next coat. Spoke with the guy at www.tarsmell.com, and he doesn't see a need to sand between coats. In order to fix the dust or hair issues, I often wet sand between coats when necessary.
You should sand very lightly and add 1-2 coats per year. Keeping it covered when not in use is the best thing you can do.