Does anyone know of a tiller tamer or anything that I can use when sailing alone. If I have to go up to the front of the boat, I have to do it very quickly or the boat will turn into the wind. It would be nice if there was something that could keep it on course for a minute. I've checked the archives and can't find anything. Thanks
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Don B.
Tiller tamer may work, but . . .
A tiller tamer will work to keep your tiller imobilized; however, when you move forward, your boat will change its heading, as the boats' center of effort, or balance point, will change as you move. For example, on a sailboard, you move toward the bow or the stern to change direction. On your H-17, your body's weight is going to have a major influence on the boat's heading because its a relatively light boat. I don't think you can maintain your heading if you go forward, tiller tamer or not. It may work somewhat if you can go forward and get back to your position in just a few seconds. Good luck. Don
A tiller tamer will work to keep your tiller imobilized; however, when you move forward, your boat will change its heading, as the boats' center of effort, or balance point, will change as you move. For example, on a sailboard, you move toward the bow or the stern to change direction. On your H-17, your body's weight is going to have a major influence on the boat's heading because its a relatively light boat. I don't think you can maintain your heading if you go forward, tiller tamer or not. It may work somewhat if you can go forward and get back to your position in just a few seconds. Good luck. Don
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Gerry Knight
I have successfully used this from West Marine. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=10192 Good luck Gerry
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Bob
I was lost when I broke my Tiller Tamer
This was the second one that I broke. (No fault in the construction) I’ve finally got the replacement and am eager to get back in the cockpit. It’s true that they may not hold an exact course but just the fact that one can leave the helm briefly is worth it.
This was the second one that I broke. (No fault in the construction) I’ve finally got the replacement and am eager to get back in the cockpit. It’s true that they may not hold an exact course but just the fact that one can leave the helm briefly is worth it.
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Rusty
Tiller Tamer Solution
I have two solutions for your tiller query. The first is called a Louisianna Tiller Tamer (I believe). This is cheap and easy and searchable on the net. Take a rope and afix it to one of the cleats on the transom of the boat. Wrap it two times around the tiller and secure it to the other cleat on the transom across the boat. The tension should be such that you can slide it forward along the tiller and it will tighten. This is the "engaged" mode...the mode of self steering. To return to manual operation, slide it rearward, but let it stay secured to the cleats and tiller. The tiller extension location does complicate this on the H-170. Experiment with location. Option number two is taken from my Melges M-16, yet not installed on my 170 (or even tested for that matter). The old M-16 had twin tillers and twin rudders. Each tiller was attached to its own rudder, and connected to the opposite tiller via a crossmember, thus they moved in tandem , total harmony. Picture a letter "H". The two side bars, the "I I's" are the tillers and pivot at the top, left and right. The crossmember is the bar in the center, the "-". A bungee cord was attached to the boat from behind and from the each side, to the center of the "-". Picture a "V" sitting on the "-" of the "H". This "V" is the routing of the bungee. Kinda of makes you think what the "H" am I "T_LK_NG" about. Stay with me!!! Any way what this does is provide for self centering of the tiller. The tiller pops back to center when released...(how many times have you accidently let go of the tiller during a tack? I hate going round and round in those tight little circles!!!) and short periods of self steering (what you want). The only draw back is slight resistence when you turn. What I envision for testing would be to afix each end of a bungee to the the cleats on each side of the transom. Afix a small "s" hook to the center of the bungee. The "s" hook needs to be secured to the bungee so it does not slide each direction along the bungee. Hook the "s" hook into the open fore end of the tiller. Play with the tension until the tiller pops back to center, yet allowing for free turning. If this works well for you, afix 2 small eye straps to the boat to afix the bungee to (freeing up your cleats) and drill a small hole in your tiller to afix the "s" hook to (possibly "s" hooks on each end of the bungee so it is removable). It will cost only a few bucks and you get the satisfaction of saying "I did it myself". The spouse will think of you as a great sea master and the kids will look at you as an inventor second only to the guy who invented Crayons. You will realize self-actualization as only Maslow could predict. Your life will change... and what did it cost you? Five feet of bungee and an "s" hook (and possibly 2 hog rings). My, my, my... you friend have enjoyed the High Life. Good Luck. If you want to see a digital image of the set up on an M Scow, reply back to this post and I will e-mail one. Rusty
I have two solutions for your tiller query. The first is called a Louisianna Tiller Tamer (I believe). This is cheap and easy and searchable on the net. Take a rope and afix it to one of the cleats on the transom of the boat. Wrap it two times around the tiller and secure it to the other cleat on the transom across the boat. The tension should be such that you can slide it forward along the tiller and it will tighten. This is the "engaged" mode...the mode of self steering. To return to manual operation, slide it rearward, but let it stay secured to the cleats and tiller. The tiller extension location does complicate this on the H-170. Experiment with location. Option number two is taken from my Melges M-16, yet not installed on my 170 (or even tested for that matter). The old M-16 had twin tillers and twin rudders. Each tiller was attached to its own rudder, and connected to the opposite tiller via a crossmember, thus they moved in tandem , total harmony. Picture a letter "H". The two side bars, the "I I's" are the tillers and pivot at the top, left and right. The crossmember is the bar in the center, the "-". A bungee cord was attached to the boat from behind and from the each side, to the center of the "-". Picture a "V" sitting on the "-" of the "H". This "V" is the routing of the bungee. Kinda of makes you think what the "H" am I "T_LK_NG" about. Stay with me!!! Any way what this does is provide for self centering of the tiller. The tiller pops back to center when released...(how many times have you accidently let go of the tiller during a tack? I hate going round and round in those tight little circles!!!) and short periods of self steering (what you want). The only draw back is slight resistence when you turn. What I envision for testing would be to afix each end of a bungee to the the cleats on each side of the transom. Afix a small "s" hook to the center of the bungee. The "s" hook needs to be secured to the bungee so it does not slide each direction along the bungee. Hook the "s" hook into the open fore end of the tiller. Play with the tension until the tiller pops back to center, yet allowing for free turning. If this works well for you, afix 2 small eye straps to the boat to afix the bungee to (freeing up your cleats) and drill a small hole in your tiller to afix the "s" hook to (possibly "s" hooks on each end of the bungee so it is removable). It will cost only a few bucks and you get the satisfaction of saying "I did it myself". The spouse will think of you as a great sea master and the kids will look at you as an inventor second only to the guy who invented Crayons. You will realize self-actualization as only Maslow could predict. Your life will change... and what did it cost you? Five feet of bungee and an "s" hook (and possibly 2 hog rings). My, my, my... you friend have enjoyed the High Life. Good Luck. If you want to see a digital image of the set up on an M Scow, reply back to this post and I will e-mail one. Rusty
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Jeremiah D. Canty
Tiller rig
Your idea sounds great--but I'd sure like teh pic--"jcanty01@earthlink.net"--Thanks, Dan
Your idea sounds great--but I'd sure like teh pic--"jcanty01@earthlink.net"--Thanks, Dan
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Marshall
I purchased a used Hunter 140. It had a Tiller Tamer installed on the tiller, but no eyelets or cam-cleats on the back corners of the hull. (I don't know how the former owner ever used it.) I finished the installation and love using it.
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Jeremiah D. Canty
TT location
When you used the Tiller Tamer did you just tie the lines off to the aft cleats at the corners or did you install seperate cleats? Because of the tiller extension handle did you put the Tiller Tamer on top or on the underside of the Tiller handle?
When you used the Tiller Tamer did you just tie the lines off to the aft cleats at the corners or did you install seperate cleats? Because of the tiller extension handle did you put the Tiller Tamer on top or on the underside of the Tiller handle?
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HKP
Tiller Tamer & Bungee
I installed the Davis Tiller Tamer under the the tiller and replace the cord with bungee cord that I attach to the rear cleats. It allows me to set the tiller for those times I need to move forward or need another hand. Very handy when single handed. Link gets you to description of the "Tiller Tamer" be Davis.
I installed the Davis Tiller Tamer under the the tiller and replace the cord with bungee cord that I attach to the rear cleats. It allows me to set the tiller for those times I need to move forward or need another hand. Very handy when single handed. Link gets you to description of the "Tiller Tamer" be Davis.
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