Seems a number of you have had good success with the TillerTamer for short moments away from the tiller. I downloaded the instructions. Where do you place the back release cleats & which cleat do you use. I'm thinking of the one with fairlead. Visual exam seems like the best place is on the curved slope of the end of the seats a few inches inboard of the back cleats. The cleats themselves would be ideal except for needing to have a quick release effect. Maybe a simple nylon hook tied on and set on cleat would do fine. I just don't have other references for ideas and hate to drill too many holes! Thanks for your ideas, Steve
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Mike Misko
Tiller Tamer
In order to get the proper 90 degree angle from the tiller attachment, I had to drill holes and mount the cleats vertically on my H23. As a result, needed the types with firl leads. Did not detach them once all season. Best $6 I ever spent
In order to get the proper 90 degree angle from the tiller attachment, I had to drill holes and mount the cleats vertically on my H23. As a result, needed the types with firl leads. Did not detach them once all season. Best $6 I ever spent
Bungee cord is my autopilot
Before you start putting holes in your boat... My sophisticated autopilot is a 3' long bungee cord. I hook it across the stern cleats, taking one turn around the tiller. It works well enough to let me go forward to tidy up lines, get my water bottle, etc.. If I need more time, I will heave the boat to - though of course, I make no headway then. I have also squirreled away the instructions and photos for a "Cajun Tiller Tamer" - see link below. When I dock the boat, I also use the bungee to keep the rudder (which I stow in the up poistion) and the boom together so they don't get jostled while docked. Having said that - MIKE MISKO - can you send photos of your cleats? Start with the least expensive and least impact to the hull - see what will work for you. Cheers.
Before you start putting holes in your boat... My sophisticated autopilot is a 3' long bungee cord. I hook it across the stern cleats, taking one turn around the tiller. It works well enough to let me go forward to tidy up lines, get my water bottle, etc.. If I need more time, I will heave the boat to - though of course, I make no headway then. I have also squirreled away the instructions and photos for a "Cajun Tiller Tamer" - see link below. When I dock the boat, I also use the bungee to keep the rudder (which I stow in the up poistion) and the boom together so they don't get jostled while docked. Having said that - MIKE MISKO - can you send photos of your cleats? Start with the least expensive and least impact to the hull - see what will work for you. Cheers.
D
Dan McGuire
I also Use the Bungee Cord
I use the bungee cord arrangement as Tereza described on my D-18. I like it better than the tiller Tamer on my MAC 23.
I use the bungee cord arrangement as Tereza described on my D-18. I like it better than the tiller Tamer on my MAC 23.
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Sav'h Steve
Only Three feet bungee? (for tiller taming)
Since the boat is nearly 7 feet across to rear cleats, it just seems to me that you would need more cord even if you are stretching it! On the Cajun model, he used rope that he slides up the tiller to 'lock it' which I understand. Wonder if you do similarly with the bungee cord? How much *more* control would one have with the screw down clamp of the "Tamer" over the bungee? I did buy the Tamer today ($26) but not opened it yet. Thanks guys. Good to have a resource!! Steve ps - Still haven't heard about the 'cleats' that I mentioned in first post. 90% angle important?
Since the boat is nearly 7 feet across to rear cleats, it just seems to me that you would need more cord even if you are stretching it! On the Cajun model, he used rope that he slides up the tiller to 'lock it' which I understand. Wonder if you do similarly with the bungee cord? How much *more* control would one have with the screw down clamp of the "Tamer" over the bungee? I did buy the Tamer today ($26) but not opened it yet. Thanks guys. Good to have a resource!! Steve ps - Still haven't heard about the 'cleats' that I mentioned in first post. 90% angle important?
Sav'h Steve...Pulling today, will check length.
Woke up this morning, and seems today will be the day to pull the boat - aahh...Danbury ain't Savannah...! I'll check the length and report back. You want enough spring in it to stay put when you want it to, but move without binding too much. You will need to adjust it while underway. Nice thing is, it costs nothing to try - you will always have a use for a bungee (no such thing as too many bungees), and you can get a feel for how this will work for you. I don't really slide it up to lock it - the springiness of it is enough tension. If I have crew (ny breathing body), I just take off the wrap around the tiller, and leave it hooked across the stern, though you could stow it. Sounds like Dan has can compare directly. So...I go now to the sad task of taking her out of the water, and will check the length. Stay tuned!
Woke up this morning, and seems today will be the day to pull the boat - aahh...Danbury ain't Savannah...! I'll check the length and report back. You want enough spring in it to stay put when you want it to, but move without binding too much. You will need to adjust it while underway. Nice thing is, it costs nothing to try - you will always have a use for a bungee (no such thing as too many bungees), and you can get a feel for how this will work for you. I don't really slide it up to lock it - the springiness of it is enough tension. If I have crew (ny breathing body), I just take off the wrap around the tiller, and leave it hooked across the stern, though you could stow it. Sounds like Dan has can compare directly. So...I go now to the sad task of taking her out of the water, and will check the length. Stay tuned!
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Sav'h Steve
Just lookin for a comparison...
<Woke up this morning, and seems today will be the day to pull the boat - aahh...Danbury ain't Savannah...! I'll check the length and report back.> Sorry Tereza, I didn't mean for you to go out and check! I was just thinking 3 ft would be stretching the **** out of it.. I assume you have little nylon hooks on the ends, I looked at West Marine yesterday for these and they had none. BTW, you are the most active 'reply-er' to my posts. Thanks. Steve
<Woke up this morning, and seems today will be the day to pull the boat - aahh...Danbury ain't Savannah...! I'll check the length and report back.> Sorry Tereza, I didn't mean for you to go out and check! I was just thinking 3 ft would be stretching the **** out of it.. I assume you have little nylon hooks on the ends, I looked at West Marine yesterday for these and they had none. BTW, you are the most active 'reply-er' to my posts. Thanks. Steve
H23 Tiller Tamer Pic
Here's a picture of how I attached the Tiller Tamer on my H23. Note, the fairlead on the cleat is at the bottom. I do think the 90 degree angle is important, and so is the minimum distance from the rudder pivot. I toyed with moving the tamer farther forward on the tiller to allow me route the lines back to existing cleats in the corners of the stern. The disadvantage was lost space for seating in the cockpit. I like the tiller tamer better than the bungee because I can easily loosen it and have full, free range of motion, then get back to a solid lock with about 3/4 of a turn on the knob. By the way, once you drill your first hole to add a block or cleat, you'll get over your concerns about it and start looking for other possible mods.
Here's a picture of how I attached the Tiller Tamer on my H23. Note, the fairlead on the cleat is at the bottom. I do think the 90 degree angle is important, and so is the minimum distance from the rudder pivot. I toyed with moving the tamer farther forward on the tiller to allow me route the lines back to existing cleats in the corners of the stern. The disadvantage was lost space for seating in the cockpit. I like the tiller tamer better than the bungee because I can easily loosen it and have full, free range of motion, then get back to a solid lock with about 3/4 of a turn on the knob. By the way, once you drill your first hole to add a block or cleat, you'll get over your concerns about it and start looking for other possible mods.
4 feet,, not 3
Sav'h Steve - RIght you are! The bungee is 4' long, plastic loop end to plastic loop end. Measuring was no biggie... Alas, today, due to weather and schedules, had to be the day I pull the boat. And even if I weren't, the boat is about 500' from the front door! I suppose the proximity of my docked boat makes up a little bit for the short sailing season in the northeast. I did not buy these at a boating store - I think it might've been a bicycle store, or camping store. Sailing season is winding down, so am on this forum looking for advice about what improvements to do for next season. There is lots to learn here, and am glad to be on the "reply" side with hopefully useful info when I can! Let us know how things work out. Can you sail year round there?
Sav'h Steve - RIght you are! The bungee is 4' long, plastic loop end to plastic loop end. Measuring was no biggie... Alas, today, due to weather and schedules, had to be the day I pull the boat. And even if I weren't, the boat is about 500' from the front door! I suppose the proximity of my docked boat makes up a little bit for the short sailing season in the northeast. I did not buy these at a boating store - I think it might've been a bicycle store, or camping store. Sailing season is winding down, so am on this forum looking for advice about what improvements to do for next season. There is lots to learn here, and am glad to be on the "reply" side with hopefully useful info when I can! Let us know how things work out. Can you sail year round there?
J
Jeff Wessel
Tiller tamer
Ahhh the tiller tamer. Bought one.....installed it.....hated it. Next year I am going to try the bungee aproach.
Ahhh the tiller tamer. Bought one.....installed it.....hated it. Next year I am going to try the bungee aproach.
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